September 23, 20178 yr Author All sorted thanks guys. Managed to get in touch with a guy on Facebook who helped me out massively this morning swapping loads of bits over from his bike and spares stock. Started with the tank, then injector, coil, plug, thermostat, eventually changed the throttle body and that sorted it. The diagnostics says I still have an injector issue but it seems to run fine now. Thanks for all your contributions. Me and my bike are mates again
November 3, 20178 yr Hi All, I have a spare 2005 that had not been started for a while. Would not start, no spark. Eventually replaced the fuel pump, three kicks with the throttle open and she ran. But was hard to start, so rode it in a trail but still hard to start. A mate with 4rts suggested that the valve clearances needed checking, which was done (several times). Still hard to start, but now runs the same as the previous bikes. Checked the pump pressure, 250kpa, checked the idle speed, 1800 when its stable, checked the voltage 12.5V. Disconnected the air hose to the throttle body, change out the throttle body, twice and it's still the same. Will try the suggestions previously and see.. waiting for a compression tester, maybe a valve is passing. Back to the Sherco...so simple! Mike
November 5, 20178 yr have a look at the capacitor....mine had corrosion on the black wire that had gone back up into the loom...I replaced the capacitor and cut out the corroded wire which helped the poor starting...from what I was led to believe the capacitor provides approx. 5v to the ECU prior to it starting.... I did also have in intermittent ECU issue which also gave poor starting....when this was plugged in to the diagnostics it read as a temp fault, the temp switch was changed but it still read the same fault, turned out to be a faulty ECU.
November 8, 20178 yr Hi. The regulated voltage should be between 13.5 to 14.5 volt at 1800 RPM - so 12.5 volt is definitely to low. If voltage is low when engine is running - must it be very low during cranking of the engine and if the lower threshold at 6 volt to activate the ECU isn´t reached it wouldn´t start. As "thall1" mentioned the condenser wiring could be bad - so it would be a good place to start your diagnostic search. One thing to remember about the batteryless system is how important the condenser is during start of the engine. Hope you make it work. Regards Honda Freak
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