December 10, 20178 yr As it say. I’ve wear in a 2011 linkage. Not stripped nothing yet but what are my options? Top tips on ripping it all apart? Can I use bearings instead of bushes? Am I likely to need pins etc? Do these parts even exist now? If worst comes to the worst, I might see if I can get all the parts re made and to use bearings and seals instead.
December 10, 20178 yr The SKF bushings work fine when lubed.Disassembly is easy.Bushings are available.Someone else will chime in with part numbers. tsiklonaut? Edited December 10, 20178 yr by ric h
December 10, 20178 yr Yes, the bushings are avliable- they are standard parts. I bought them by the box from a bearing supplier. The Ti linkage is still available also (still uses bushes, but has zerk fittings for easy lube).
December 10, 20178 yr Author So if I remove the bushes I can take them into the bearing shop to match up?
December 11, 20178 yr Not a great idea to measure the removed bushes.Take the parts in (or measure them yourself) and have the parts located from the catalog.For instance...i think this is the rear wheel bushing on the 2011. http://www.skf.com/group/products/bearings-units-housings/plain-bearings/bushings-thrust-washers-strips/bushings/table-bushings/index.html?designation=PCMF 353916 E
December 11, 20178 yr Author I can’t get the link to work? Does anyone know the part numbers off hand? I’m thinking I’ll need everything for swingarm and linkage. Ta.
December 11, 20178 yr The part numbers are on the bushes. But I’m pretty sure they are listed on the OSSA forum. I have them here also- but I need to get around to finding them and posting. Oh yeah, after 2015 the ‘middle’ link bushing is larger. Edited December 11, 20178 yr by lotus54
December 12, 20178 yr If I recall, the early ones used circlips to hold it all together- later ones used bolts. But the bushings were the same size (except as noted).
December 13, 20178 yr Author Thank you lotus. Mines circlips. I’m going to pick up the bushes and fit them. I love the bike and apart from slack in the bushes all I need is a new air filter and the restoration is complete. Even fitted my own home brew easy start kit.
January 11, 20188 yr PCMF 161812 E x4 pezzi http://www.skf.com/it/products/bearings-units-housings/plain-bearings/bushings-thrust-washers-strips/table-bushings/index.html?designation=PCMF 161812 E PCMF 161817 E x5 pezzi http://www.skf.com/group/products/bearings-units-housings/plain-bearings/bushings-thrust-washers-strips/table-bushings/index.html?designation=PCMF 161817 E
January 24, 20188 yr What type of grease is working best on Ossa suspension linkage? Lewisport says to use waterproof silicon grease...from most of what I’ve seen on this forum, I believe most people are using a multi-purpose waterproof grease like Bel Ray. thanks, phil
January 24, 20188 yr I’ve used a number of different types. Silicone with teflon waterproof Belray another waterproof (can’t remember the brand) I didn’t notice much difference. If you ride in the mud a lot, they take a lot of maintenance. If you don’t ride mud/water- they seem to need minimal once lubed initially. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042FG74W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
February 9, 20188 yr Author I’m using silkolene RG2. Thank you lotus. Mines circlips. I’m going to pick up the bushes and fit them. I love the bike and apart from slack in the bushes all I need is a new air filter and the restoration is complete. Even fitted my own home brew easy start kit.
February 22, 20188 yr Hi Pindie, I recently aquired a 2012 TR280i that i am extremly happy with ?that also had quite some play in the bearing bushes, as i have experienced, it is a PITA to press them out(and in) and on top of that i have read myself in on the PCMF bearings (that have a few Micron!!! of PTFE lubricant) and they do not tolerate dirt of any kind and are not the best option for occilating movement. as i have used technical “super plastics” before on some projects, i have decided to try an alternative to the teflon steel bushings. the advantage of these should be that they are suitable for occilating movement, and they can cope with some dirt, and moreimportant, the complete 1mm wallthickness is the same low friction selflubricating material! and also a small point they should be much easier to press in and remove I will mount these and share with you how things are after some month of (ab)use Best Regards Chris The ones i have ordered are from IGUS, these are the sizes the smaller ones are for the link arms and the chain tensioner the larger ones are for the rear fork pivot points igus® iglidur® J350 flangebush, type J350FM-1618-17 Aantal: 5 stuks Prijs: € 2,11 netto per stuk igus® iglidur® J350 Flangebush type J350FM-1618-12 Aantal: 4 stuks Prijs: € 1,95 netto per stuk igus® iglidur® J350 flangebush, type J350FM-2023-21 Aantal: 2 stuks Prijs: € 3,52 netto per stuk igus® iglidur® J350 Cylindrical Bush, type J350SM-2023-15 Aantal: 2 stuks Prijs: € 2,87 netto per stuk. Edited February 22, 20188 yr by rinkeldekinkel
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