I have seen some serial to USB adapters fail with this sort of thing. 

  The most reliable one I had also had a driver not updated for newer OS. An Integrated Servo I am using for my electronic lead screw- would not work with the serial/USB, even though the computer would ‘see’ it. I bought one from the servo company and it worked fine.

 

Some laptops have a docking station that has a real serial port, or a desktop. Those would be the most reliable.  But also having to find more stuff

On 8/3/2023 at 4:38 PM, SeanKT said:

I had an old laptop with XP but couldn't get the drivers to work. Now it won't even boot up! As you know obtaining 'old' operating systems is not easy. Thanks for you input, bit not sure how to progress if K-scan will only work with older operating systems

K-Scan works for me under Windows 10 (Pro x64 is the only version I've tried).

My new favorite USB to RS-232 converter is made by Okiwan.  It uses the FTDI chip.  Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/Serial-Adapter-Chipset-Supports-Windows/dp/B08B5M1KBZ

 

P.S. K-Scan can only see COM1 through COM10 (I think).  So you may have to reassign your serial ports using Device Manager.

P.P.S. Just noticed that I had initially linked an Okiwan converter with a female DB-9 connector.  You need a male DB-9 to mate with the Kokusan Communications Unit. Link is now correct.

Edited August 4, 20233 yr by konrad

Thanks Konrad, I've ordered another USB-RS-232 converter with the FTDI chip, fingers crossed. Can I also say have 8 TRi in various states of repair, your OSSA site has been a wealth of useful knowledge. Here in the UK information is not always readily available. I have managed to acquire lots of new old stock parts, but it's always the case that the part you want isn't easily sourced.  Like the fuel level sensor! I've just stripped a bike to restore and that little plastic blighter snapped in the fuel tank! Have to cross reference this part at all to replace one?

I will let you know the outcome of the K-Scan 

 

4 hours ago, SeanKT said:

Like the fuel level sensor! I've just stripped a bike to restore and that little plastic blighter snapped in the fuel tank! Have to cross reference this part at all to replace one?

I've not investigated the fuel level sensor but have been told it's a thermistor -- which seems really, really weird to me.  If it is, you can construct a table of resistance versus temperature and compare that to commercially available thermistors.

Of course, you may also have to manufacture a housing too.  That's what I had to do for a failed coolant temperature sensor.

 

Hi Konrad the USB-RS-232 converter with the FTDI chip works! yay! I'm not quite sure what to do with the information though! I also have the unit to upload maps to the ecu and a good few different maps. Good job as I now have a 2011 Factory Rep with the Termingoni exhaust fitted which didn't come with the bike originally in 2011. Thank you for your advise.

make sure to use the software version and maps for the older ECU- there are two different ones. 

  The newer ECU/software allows a base fuel mixture trim, I found it makes a noticeable difference and could be something to try. 

 

Did you check with Lewisport for the fuel level sensor?  I know they still have quite a few parts and something like that is likely to be a very low demand and may still have. A phone call works best.

Is there a way to access ECU without engine running? Some way to give power to the ECU with a battery or something?

1 minute ago, stou said:

Is there a way to access ECU without engine running? Some way to give power to the ECU with a battery or something?

Yes, I power up with a tiny Li battery.  The best way to set the TPS (well, that is true for me anyway).

 I found I had to adjust/reset TPS about every 100 hours.

I tried to use the 9v easy start button to send some power to the ECU and it worked. I can see the TPS and some other info.

 

9 minutes ago, lotus54 said:

Yes, I power up with a tiny Li battery.  The best way to set the TPS (well, that is true for me anyway).

 I found I had to adjust/reset TPS about every 100 hours.

It's been a while since I set the TPS (many years) and it is really hard to start. What spark plug are you using? Right now I have an NGK Iridium BPR5EIX but I think it's too cold, the weather here is now around 50F-60F at this time of year. 

14 minutes ago, stou said:

It's been a while since I set the TPS (many years) and it is really hard to start. What spark plug are you using? Right now I have an NGK Iridium BPR5EIX but I think it's too cold, the weather here is now around 50F-60F at this time of year. 

I do not have a modern OSSA right now, but I think I did use that sparking plug. 

I found it difficult to start/smooth idle if I needed to reset TPS. I also fit my ‘super easy start’ setup (do a search) which powered up everything. For me, it worked much better than the factory ‘easy start’- with additional bonus of easy priming if running out of fuel and easy trailside troubleshooting. Much, much easier to start- almost always one kick. 

Thanks for that info lotus54. I have found your thread about the "super easy start", very good info. But I have a question. You wrote to connect the 12v battery to the red and black of the diagnostic connector. Are you talking about the connector where we connect the computer with Kscan? On my 2012 TR280i there's no red and black wires on this connector.

1 hour ago, stou said:

Thanks for that info lotus54. I have found your thread about the "super easy start", very good info. But I have a question. You wrote to connect the 12v battery to the red and black of the diagnostic connector. Are you talking about the connector where we connect the computer with Kscan? On my 2012 TR280i there's no red and black wires on this connector.

I think the 2012 has a four pin vrs 6 pin connector? 

  If so, I have not done one and cannot remember how to address that. 

I just did a test and used a 12V battery instead of the 9V of the old Easy start that is already on my 2012. I can ear the fuel pump. Now it's too late but I'll try to start it with the 12V tomorrow to see if it make a difference. Right now the TPS is at 0.620 with the engine not running, which I think is ok from what I read. Tomorrow I will also check the RPM to see if it's at 1400 RPM. Thanks for the reply!

1 hour ago, stou said:

I just did a test and used a 12V battery instead of the 9V of the old Easy start that is already on my 2012. I can ear the fuel pump. Now it's too late but I'll try to start it with the 12V tomorrow to see if it make a difference. Right now the TPS is at 0.620 with the engine not running, which I think is ok from what I read. Tomorrow I will also check the RPM to see if it's at 1400 RPM. Thanks for the reply!

I worked really hard to get it as close to 0.6 as I can, with idle set to stock (I think 1400?).

I had a BTWICE throttle body with a bypass screw, so I could change idle speed without messing everything up (although I never did)