Jump to content

Sherco Frame Welding


bikespace
 Share

Recommended Posts

If, just for instance a lardy bloke I know was flying along a path, only to find the path ended, shot off a 10 foot drop , slipped off the foot pegs on landing and managed to snap the rear part of the frame (mudguard/silencer support), what tips and advice would you give the daft bugger for getting it welded up :D

I understand the frame is chrome-moly. Any special welding techniques needed. It's magnetic, but does that make it as easy as steel to patch up, or even more awkward than alloy?

Obviously it's not me :)

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

It certainly does not put TIG out, and it just puts Mig out for practicality sake, but it can be done.

I will bite however "why"

If you are trying to match the chrome, the chrome in the heat effected area will be gone just outside of your stainless weld, so you will have a stainless weld. with two brown stripes to either side of it?

If I understand what he is welding it is the tube in the back, so unless you get pretty tricky with the back gas, you are leaving yourself open for nitrogen contamination, and "sugar" that is the bane of most stainless jobs.

And I did not say it well, but watch for the electronics was what I was refering too on the usual precautions, although, I seldom ever do anything other then insure that my ground is near my weld and well connected to avoid the arc looking for a different path.

Bobby welds, F1, Nascar, EAA and various other "high tech" stuff, often at the side of the track, and seldom if ever do they disconnect anything. While there is always the potential to wipe out electronic components with the welder, I myself have never seen it happen. (which does not mean it does not happen)

I cannot imagine the number of road race bikes that he has TIG'd on between races.

Anyway, to each his own.

If it was my shop, the Airbox and fuel tank would come off, and depending on my mood the .023 mig or the TIG with A-1 rod probably would come out, grind to remove chrome, and away we go. Probably a couple of spots and reassemble to make sure all bolt holes etc. lined up, then back apart and finish weld. Little wire brush action and silver spray paint. I think most folks would be hard pressed to tell it had been done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

What Al said, and be sure to grind to remove chrome as the addition of NI,CR to the weld may adversely effect weld properties. Mig is easier and quicker and very strong on the frame which is actually a "softer" material than the weld!

I think? :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 
If it was my shop, the Airbox and fuel tank would come off, and depending on my mood the .023 mig or the TIG with A-1 rod probably would come out, grind to remove chrome, and away we go.  Probably a couple of spots and reassemble to make sure all bolt holes etc. lined up, then back apart and finish weld.  Little wire brush action and silver spray paint.  I think most folks would be hard pressed to tell it had been done.

If it was my shop I'd happily fire up the mig without checking the wire diameter, feed rate, or voltage. The moment I pulled the trigger I'd notice the gas tank is still on the bike, drop the gun in a panic and leap back a few feet expecting ignition. After a few minutes I'd convince myself an explosion wasn't imminent and I'd remove the gas tank. I'd pick the gun back up, line the wire up with the crack, then flip the visor up and down about 15 times to see if it's still lined up before pulling the trigger (really need to get one of those fancy auto-darkening helmets). I'd finally say "screw it" and pull the trigger, at which point I'd see I'd moved the wire about 1/2" from the crack. Keeping the trigger pulled, I'd leave a trail of molten metal along the frame up to the crack. I'd now be in full Rice Krispies Mode with a sounds of snap, crackle, and pop filling my shop. I'd stop after I'd traversed about half the crack length, flip up the visor, and admire the pile of BB's I'd managed to attach to the frame. Satisfied I was doing my best, I'd drop the visor and continue on with the rest of the crack. Next, I'd pull out the body grinder and flatten the pile of BB's leaving a flat area with the space between the BB's forming a meandering criss-cross reminiscent of a dry lake bed. At that point I'd try to bolt all the sundry items back up to the frame and find that none of the holes lined up. Out comes the abrasive wheel to cut the frame back off and the whole process would be repeated. After 3 or 4 iterations I'd reassemble the bike and shove the welder back into the corner where it could hibernate a year or so until my next welding job. I'll have forgotten to pick up some paint so I'd promise myself to get some next time I'm at the store so I could properly finish the job. I'd use the phone in the garage to thank dad again for giving me his 20 year old Harbor Freight welder. A couple months and several wet rides later I'd notice the rusty weld while servicing the linkage bearings and promise myself I'd pick up some paint next time I'm at the store.

So if anyone needs some welding done in the midwestern US, just give me a shout.

Edited by czjmp6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
  • Create New...