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Robert J

Declutch issues

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Hi there,

I have recently bought a Montesa 315R to start riding trails in order to improve my riding skills, I already loving the bike and the sport and can’t wait getting better in it.

The bike was standing still with the previous owner and has not been used much, so I cleaned the entire thing, cleaned the carb, cleaned the tank, bled the brakes, put in new oil and coolant, new spark plug, new exhaust fibers and a new air filter. The transmission was dragging/sticking a lot, the oil change (Elf) did help and driving it around in all gears loosened things up.

However, the clutch still does not work quite nice. It does not disengage completely. When on the stand and pulling the clutch and putting it in 1st the wheel starts to spin too much, also when riding and coming to a stop at the end of a wheely, I hardly can’t walk it backwards in first or second while pulling the clutch, it simply wants to go forward too much. While the engine is running it is also almost impossible to find neutral so that is not an option.

While riding it is not that much of an issue, when standing stil in 1st or 2nd while pulling the clutch and having my foot on the rear brake the bike does not move and does not die (sometimes it does).  I put new brake fluid in and bled it twice. Today I bled it again the other way around by removing the slave cilinder and pushing the cilinder gently back after pulling the clutch, not air bubbles are left. When I took out the slave cilinder there was a bit of clutch fluid at the outside of the cilinder so at the pushrod side. When pushing back the slave cilinder no brake fluid did came out though..

I do not know how to solve this anymore. It is just very annoying when you want to rest a bit or want to stand still you have to control the bike in order not to go forward or it to die on you when trying holding it at its place. Maybe it now sounds like it’s like a loos bull trying to escape but it is not, it is just to much pull to stand still with feet on the ground, in 1st or 2nd with the clutch pulled in, and not having to hold it back.

 

All advice is highly appreciated!

Edited by Robert J

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O and when you think you can push the bike forward, with a gear engaged and the engine not running while pressing the clutch.... not a chance..😪

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it probably needs a new clutch master cylinder piston kit and changing the slave cylinder seals  also would give peace of mind.

 

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2 hours ago, thall1 said:

it probably needs a new clutch master cylinder piston kit and changing the slave cylinder seals  also would give peace of mind.

 

How can I be sure what the problem is, to change both is quite expensive

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Assuming the free play in the lever is set up correctly then the master cylinder is most likely the issue... the slave will be just one or two O rings so shouldn’t be expensive. The master cylinder piston kit wouldn’t be too expensive £30 or so...if you want the clutch to work correctly then it’ll need to be changed... as it’s been stood for a while you may as well change the slave seals so then you have a ‘new’ clutch operating system... 

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I thought a complete new master and slave cylinder. Didn’t thought seal kits were available but they are. There are 2 o-rings for the slave piston, the outer one is green and costs €40 🤧 and the other one €2... 

Is it advisable to change the slave piston as well and is the master cylinder kit easy to fit, is there somewhere a manual of this, should be fine but all tips are welcome.

Regarding finding neutral when idling, is it normal neutral almost isn’t possible to select? Or does this relate to the clutch problems as at this point the clutch will not be disengaged fully? Further how can you check for clutch plates which are worn out?

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Almost all trials bikes are hard to find nuetral while running. Chances are it is either wrong adjustment or needing the rebuild kit. The slave rarely goes bad.

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Regarding the adjustment, how would it be set properly? It has a couple of millimetres of free play.

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 I would just pull the lever off and pull the M/C piston out and inspect the seal. Takes 5 minutes if you have a snap ring tool. We can talk about it for weeks.

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Just put a new piston kit in... you’ve already changed lots as it’s been stood... you may as well change it out then you know you’ve got a good hydraulic system... if it still doesn’t work (doubtful!)..then you can look at the clutch pack 

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I have pulled apart the master cylinder, was a bit rusty at the other side of the lever dust cap.

The seal does have a little mark in it, not sure if this should be there as it is no crack.

At the engine side/ push rod side of the Slave pistion was again a bit of oil. This is no brake fluid as I thought it was but transmission oil. Is this normal? I think it comes through the hole of the push rod when this moves.

 

I have pictures attached

C0EC473C-D1BB-4A11-BAA6-C1676A9BBDAA.jpeg

67B6A49F-62D4-41B2-8FEE-A2010BA4F339.jpeg

Edited by Robert J
Pictures added

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Doe the fluid level in the master cylinder reduce?If not neither of the cylinders are leaking.Id be looking at the clutch itself,bet the clutch basket is notched and rough where the clutch plates contact it.The clutches on these used to drag when new,not as badly as yours is though.Steel plates might also be warped too.Look on the Montesa forums on here,bet there's loads of information 

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