sorry, another (quite) silly question...

in which way I can set the -optimal- chain tension? (SY 125)

I know this seems to be obvious but, actually, it is not: I read many

hints/technique (including the one described in the user manual) and

every one takes to a different chain tension...

any side-effect if it's set too tight?

thanks

m.

if too tight at least you will wear the chain and sprockets fast at worst chain could snap whip round and crack your cases or bend the output shaft i would suggest to loose rather than too tight.

But my personal opinion on a good tension would be so you can move the chain up and down 2-2.5 inchs with you on the bike

only an opinion of course

i had this problem on wednesday before going riding on steep muddy slopes near me and i only realised it was loose once in the van and did it there.

I would go with barrybaines's suggestion of 2 inches movement

normally i use ma first finga (the one next to ya thumb) and if i can fit in between the tensioner block and the swinging arm just then i have enough tension on the chain only personal measurement some may say that this is too tight , too loose but its oreet for me

normally i use ma first finga (the one next to ya thumb) and if i can fit in between the tensioner block and the swinging arm just then i have enough tension on the chain only personal measurement some may say that this is too tight , too loose but its oreet for me

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I know it's not very technical, but that was just what I was going to say.

I'm 13 stone and the finger method with the bike on it's stand, always seems to give me the perfect tension when I'm stood on the bike.

Any tighter and the chain would be too tight on full compression.

Obviously there are extremes, but a little too slack is better than a little too tight.

Got to say that 2-2.5 inches seems a bit much to me IMHO. I go for around 10mm, which is about the size of a finger I suppose.

Edited February 20, 200620 yr by boofont

Chains are tightest when the swingarm is parallel to the ground and output shaft, swingarm pivot and rear axle are in line.

At this point, you should have a little slack.

Don't mistake movement for slack.

Even if the chain is as tight as a banjo string, you can move it.

You could disconnect your shock and find this point, adjust the chain, hook it all back up, then see how far your chain tensioner is from the swingarm, and then you'll know for sure.

But it seems to me that all of the manufacturers have done this work and have a spec. for this.

I think Sherco says 2-3cm. for instance.

the user manual says:

"Check the distance between the rubber chain-adjuster and the swinging arm as

shown on the diagram. The distance must be bounded by 9 and 11 mm.

Careful! There must not be any load on the bike, during the checks."

seems that this method it works well with the bigger, unuseful sprocket (z14) but

with the smaller one (z11) I can sometimes hear some..scaring noises coming

from the sprocket, especially on steep hills... (stlak!)

loosing it a lot the noise near the engine disappers, but of course

I've other problems...

trying to solve the mistery I noted the the upper rubber guide deviates the chain (near the engine) a bit too much for me using the 11 teeth spr.

but maybe it's okay, I am just a stupid novice...

m.

DON'T OVER TIGHTEN YOUR CHAIN! if you have your chain too tight it could pull apart your gearbox. a similar thing happens on the pedal bikes if you have a front freewheel. the freewheel just literally pulls apart!