1975 Suzuki RL250 question(s)

[diagnosis]

I’ve recently picked up another project, a 1975 Suzuki RL250 Exacta, which seems to run well, but is in need of some cosmetic work, and some routine maintenance done, such as brake cables and chain/sprockets replaced. The intention is to give it to my Father once it’s sorted, so we can ride together, but want to make sure it’s sound before he gets on. 

One question that seems to be eluding me is an aftermarket sprocket. I’ve seen the Talon kits available on eBay, and it seems that RL250.com and Beamish Owners Club offers kits as well, but was wondering what other Suzuki models share the same rear sprocket bolt pattern, as well as alternatives for the front sprocket?  

Edit:  Another question, has anyone used a Venhill rear brake cable, and any idea what the correct part no. may be?  

Any help would be appreciated!  

Just after I picked it up:

It’s current state: 

Edited July 19, 2023 by diagnosis

[lemur]

Re: "Suzuki models share the same rear sprocket bolt pattern, as well as alternatives for the front sprocket?  

I'm going to suggest yes to that 👍 Suzuki used a Lot of parts in common with other models on the Exacta.

Great motor!  but omg they turn slow at the forks and the Beamish I rode felt like a pogo stick in the rear.

What's your plan, gear it slower or faster?  A really large rear sprocket will exasperate the pogo stick action and I remember the internal gear ratios are not ideal.

[diagnosis]

Hi Lemur, thanks for the reply!  I was Googling around earlier and came across a post from the Trials Austrailia forum, regarding the rear sprocket, and the 75-77 RM125 shares the same pattern, which is a great starting point in finding another 'budget' rear sprocket.  I haven't really ridden it myself other than around the parking lot after picking it up from the previous owner, so was intending to use the original 54/15 gearing just for something to replace the completely worn out stock sprockets and chain.  I'm also slightly tempted to steepen the head angle by a few degrees, hopefully to improve the slow steering. It's a little nervewracking cutting into a perfectly good frame though!

Edit: Ended up ordering a JT sprocket set, and new chain this afternoon.  I went with a 54t rear (part no. JTR 809.54) and a 14t front (part no. JTF1559.14), mainly due to availability and budget.  The kit cost just over $84 Canadian, which isn't bad, but will still have to make a 5mm spacer..... I'll let you know how it goes!

Edited July 21, 2023 by diagnosis

[teamferret]

A friend had one of these and he fitted slightly longer shocks which steeped the head angle and increased the ground clearence

[lemur]

That doesn't look like an exacta alloy fuel tank, looks more like a steel Yamaha TY tank.  Problem with the rear end is, the countershaft sprocket is a long way ahead of the swing arm pivot point and the original swing arm is very short.  If you alter the rear suspension and sprocket size significantly the rear end starts doing the pogo-stick motion.

Angle at the steering head is definitely the source of the slow steering and the leading axle doesn't help that situation.  I agree on not wanting to chop the frame and it's a shame you can't adjust rake at the triple trees like they did with choppers in the olden days.  Stock forks are spindly and the stanchion tubes are very close together which also limits the lock to lock.  The biggest improvements you can do to the bike over stock OEM is to run modern radial gummy tires 👍  and improve the bash plate coverage.

 

[diagnosis]

Good eye Lemur, it is in fact a TY250 alloy tank. I intend to make a tank for it at some point, maybe similar to a Sammy Miller style Yamaha, or the Holtworks RL250 version. 
Hopefully the gearing works out, as teamferret mentioned, I have installed 360mm Betor rear shocks as the originals were blown. 
This is the current state, as of this afternoon. I still plan on filling some dents in the tank, repainting, and adding a 2k clear, lengthening the kickstand, and replacing the rear brake cable, but otherwise, I’m pretty happy with it! 
 

[diagnosis]

After fitting the longer Betor rear shocks, I've run into a small problem.... the chain rubs on the top of the swingarm pivot.  I've put a rubber swingarm protector from a Yamaha TY175 in place, to act as a rub block, but was wondering if there are any other solutions, or a Suzuki specific part that solves this issue?

[esuark7]

there was something on this site before but can`t see it now worth a try https://www.beamishownersclub.com/

Edited July 25, 2023 by esuark7

[diagnosis]

On 7/25/2023 at 3:23 AM, esuark7 said:

there was something on this site before but can`t see it now worth a try https://www.beamishownersclub.com/

I’ve yet to contact them regarding the guard, but once the suspension is loaded while riding it, the rubbing doesn’t seem to be a problem, thanks for the heads up though! 
I made a skid plate for the RL today, and took it for a ride around the shop for the second time since I’ve owned it. It feels really nice, although longer than I initially remembered. Adjusting the bars back should solve that issue.
There are still a few things on the to-do list, but I’m almost ready to hand the kill switch over to my Dad. 

- There is a carb leak, I’m guessing around the bowl gasket. I cut a new one out today, as the old one was cracked and no longer working either, but didn’t seem to solve the problem. I’m considering just grabbing an OKO kit from Midwest Atlantic Trials, as the one I bought for my TY175 works flawlessly so far, and is priced reasonably. 
- Seems like there is excessive smoke at startup until it’s fully warmed up, then it’s tolerable. I’m guessing crank seal? It’s fresh  90octane at 50-1 with synthetic oil mix. 
- Still want to paint and finish tank ‘properly’. It’s just been spraybombed with white Tremclad, and isn’t fuel resistant. I have decals being made, so once they arrive I’ll focus on that. 
- The kickstart lever is incredibly worn and flops like crazy. I tried building up the stops with weld, but that didn’t help at all. Are there any other Suzuki’s that shared this kickstart design that could be swapped over?  
Again, I appreciate all the feedback, and suggestions, this bike is a bit of a mystery to me, but seems to be coming together better than I expected. 🍻 

Pics from today:

 

 

 

 

Edited July 28, 2023 by diagnosis

[shakennstirred]

just remember, you will need a spacer if you run a flat rear sproket.

the origanl is dished 

[diagnosis]

Thanks for the heads up!  I ended up using a 5mm (3/16”) spacer. I first tried cutting up the original sprocket to use as the spacer, but it was too wide, causing the hardware lock washers to rub on the frame. 

Other than that, the JT 809.54 rear sprocket fits well. 

[LaVern]

On 8/2/2023 at 4:05 PM, diagnosis said:

Thanks for the heads up!  I ended up using a 5mm (3/16”) spacer. I first tried cutting up the original sprocket to use as the spacer, but it was too wide, causing the hardware lock washers to rub on the frame. 

Other than that, the JT 809.54 rear sprocket fits well. 

Several years back, 3 or 4, I reconditioned my 1975 RL250, and I used the center out of an old RL250 sprocket I had for a rear sprocket spacer and it worked just fine I thought. Where were you getting the rubbing at? I may have to go back and check that out. Thanks.

LaVern

[diagnosis]

Using the old sprocket was so close, but the sprocket hardware was rubbing on the drive side of the swingarm, on the tubing just in front of the drop out. Could be slight differences in the build, spacers, or hardware that caused the issue for me, and not on your RL. 
 

 

Edited September 28, 2023 by diagnosis