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Virtigo clutch not progressive


Joe@Trial
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Hi,

I have a 22 Virtigo Nitro and the clutch is hard to pull in and it’s all or nothing, not progressive at all.

I was told it’s the setting on the clutch but I’ve had the case off and can see the blue ring is already on setting 1 (the most progressive option?)

 

What should I try next to a) make the clutch more progressive and b) make it softer to pull in.

Does the clutch just need bleeding? A new clutch? Both?

 

All help welcome384CD1DE-F21B-468A-A2BE-30871F1C5C9F.thumb.jpeg.8739c5715c8e0264c9e089cfe4fa837f.jpeg

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id check the pack thickness is in spec and bleed the clutch fluid making sure theres no crushes or nicks in the cable. Being a 22 unless its had a hard life it should be fine

1 is the most progressive and lightest option yes,

does the pack move freely in the basket if it gets caught up on burs it'll make the action very quirky.

also, clean off all the debris in the casings and plates as this can make it heavier and less precise.

id check the seals and piston in the master cylinder personally if it was good before but gotten heavy

 

Is it your first bike and what cc is it? you have to be fairly switched on and have a lot of clutch control on a 300

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Hydraulic clutch should never be a hard pull at the lever, something inside there must be coming up solid tight.  If there was air in the hydraulics it would feel like mush at the lever and your clutch would mostly drag.  Chances of you having worn out the clutch in one year is slim to nil and a worn clutch won't hold power, it just slips.   Plus one on checking your master and slave cylinders for damage to the rubber seals and o-rings.  Physically inspect the friction plates to make sure none of the corks have folded or peeled off and doubled up, plus make sure the spaces between the cork friction pads are free of debris and your fluid levels correct.

What's all the brown on the clutch parts is that rust?  Water in your transmission oil will promote rust and swell the friction pads more than oil thereby reducing the clutch movement.  

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Thanks both, really appreciate this response.

No not my first bike, been riding a few years just never touched a clutch before (done just about everything else). It’s a 250cc, I bought it 2nd hand a couple of months ago.

Is it a case of buying new clutch plates if there has been water in?

I’d bought a new gasket in case this one broke, but sounds like it’s needed if water is getting in…..

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3 hours ago, Joe@Trial said:

Is it a case of buying new clutch plates if there has been water in?

I’d bought a new gasket in case this one broke, but sounds like it’s needed if water is getting in…..

Water evaporates, take them out, dry plates in the sun and give them a light sanding if they look glazed.

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35 minutes ago, lemur said:

Water evaporates, take them out, dry plates in the sun and give them a light sanding if they look glazed.

... if you do sand friction plates or steels, make sure your sand or emery paper is on a very flat surface.

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