Hi, All!

Working on making my recently purchased 1974 TY250 rideable. I'm doing repairs from probably decades of neglect, abuse, and a bit of "Hillbilly Engineering" from the previous owner(s).  At the same time, I'm making a few minor "upgrades"; like the Sammy Miller wide footpegs that lower and move the pegs slightly rearwards. This requires removal of the swingarm bolt. While that bolt is out, I thought I'd look into replacing the grease nipple and the pivot bushings.

I got the swingarm bolt out after somewhat of an epic battle.  Now I'd like to get the long inner bushing out; the one sorta shaped like a long dog bone that goes completely through the swing arm pivot and the plastic bushings. After that, I'd like to replace the plastic bushings, seals, and such.

But that long steel bushing I tried to describe above is really, REALLY stuck in there. I don't want to bugger it up as I need to reuse it. How is the best way to rmove this, without doing any harm?

If I had a lathe, I'd turn some barstock with a step in it to use as a driver, and maybe try pounding/pushing it out that way??? 

Any tips from those that have done this before?

Thanks,

Jimmie

Edited June 7Jun 7 by mr neutron
correct some spelling mistakes........

Okay, I guess I "panic-posted", THEN decided to think........ 

I recall having done something similar with a length of all-thread rod, some washers, some nuts, a sleeve or two, and used all this stuff similar to how a wrist pin puller/pusher works (gudgeon pin????). Will let ya know how it works out tomorrow.

 

Thanks,

Jimmie

Edited June 8Jun 8 by mr neutron
corrected spelling errors

4 hours ago, mr neutron said:

Okay, I guess I "panic-posted", THEN decided to think........ 

I recall having done something similar with a length of all-thread rod, some washers, some nuts, a sleeve or two, and used all this stuff similar to how a wrist pin puller/pusher works (gudgeon pin????). Will let ya know how it works out tomorrow.

 

Thanks,

Jimmie

I'm sure that your puller idea will work.

In case this is your next question, the plastic bushes can be hard to get out but they will shrink and fall out if you heat them up with a flame hot enough to burn the paint off the pivot tube.

Well, Big Lumpy Poopy Pants! 

It's lookin' like your idea to heat up stuff might be how it gets done, feetupfun........ 

My efforts with my all thread puller didn't work out at all. Can't get that inner steel tube to even budge a tiny amount. It's the first time I can recall stripping nuts and all threaded rod without being able to get something to move. I have the swingarm lightly clamped in a vise while soaking in penetrating oil for now, hoping that enough liquid can get through all those holes that grease is supposed to travel through to do some good for me.

Judging by how tight this long steel bushing is in the plastic bushings, and how tight those plastic bushings are pressed in the swingarm, I'm beginning to wonder if I should've not even bothered to remove them. It also makes me curious about how reassembly will go as well........ 

 

Any tips, words of encouragement, and facts pointing out what a Goober I am are welcomed!

Jimmie

YAAAYYYY!!!! Success!!!!!!! 

A combination of soaking the inside of the pivot area overnight with WD-40, my goofy all-thread "press", and Feetupfun's suggestion of some heat got things movin' outta there!

Thanks so much for your help, Feetupfun! I'm grateful! Truth be told, your posts and comments in other threads have been a help to me even when ya didn't know it. Again, Thanks!!!

Now, has anyone here ever used Speed and Sports' bushing kit for a TY250? I ask because it comes with the tube the swingarm bolt goes through (the tube I just had a tough time getting out........ ), as well as the bushings and seals. But in the picture they show, it doesn't appear to be cross drilled for grease to get through like the OEM tube. Can't see how grease from the fitting is supposed to get to the pivot bolt....... Maybe I'll call them tomorrow and see what they say......... I know I could cross drill it myself, or possibly re use my tube, or........

Stock bushings are plastic,  I always replaced the stock TY plastics with sintered bronze but that's because I own a lathe.  Keep in mind with the bushings made from sintered bronze or self lubricating plastics and properly fitted, the job of the grease filling the tube is primarily to preclude water from entering and creating rust on the steel parts.  

8 hours ago, lemur said:

Stock bushings are plastic,  I always replaced the stock TY plastics with sintered bronze but that's because I own a lathe.  Keep in mind with the bushings made from sintered bronze or self lubricating plastics and properly fitted, the job of the grease filling the tube is primarily to preclude water from entering and creating rust on the steel parts.  

You're fortunate to own a lathe, Lemur. I wish I had one. Ran one for Boeing for 20+ years before retiring. I would probably do something like you did as well if I had a lathe. Would try to add spiral lube grooves to the i.d. as we did frequently for bushings I made, to allow grease to flow in....... How often do you take stuff apart to slather some grease in there? I hope that you don't have the problems getting stuff apart like I did on mine. No telling how long mine went without any sort of regular disassembly, cleaning, and re-greasing.......

Here's a picture of my recently removed swingarm pivot bushing that shows the cross drilling. Are all TY250's inner bushing cross drilled like mine is?

 

Edited June 9Jun 9 by mr neutron
tons of misspellings......

I found that I could make bushings fit better compared to stock replacements and they lasted longer, ymmv.  but I also rebuilt microtomes for ~40 years.   It's the front end of the TY250A plus the foot-pegs, steel bars, hand controls and stock tires that need the most upgrading ... the stock TY kickstart lever was terrible and with some work can be replaced with something far superior off a period street bike.  Wheel bearings are one of the highest service and replacement items on any trials bike, with 2 TRS on the go I buy SKF bearings 10 at a time.  If your brake and clutch cables are old it's well worth replacing them for the performance gains at the lever.

From my experience even if you grease regularely the swingharm it still '' freese '' , I think the answer is to take the swingharm apart a couple time a year clean regrease .....

Guy

3 hours ago, guy53 said:

From my experience even if you grease regularely the swingharm it still '' freese '' , I think the answer is to take the swingharm apart a couple time a year clean regrease .....

Guy

I'm thinkin' your probably right on that, guy53!

I would do my GasGas 280's steering head bearings, swingarm pivot, and linkage in the winter (once a year), and it came apart and went back together fairly easily. On most of my MX and Enduro bikes I've owned over the years, once a year seemed good enough for those bikes. My Suzuki DR200 has been done once in the 4 years or so I've owned that one, but it gets ridden very little. It's my "other bike".........

But with the kinda "special" swingarm pivot bolt they give you with the Sammy Miller footpeg relocating kit (wider/longer length than the stock pivot bolt, due to the thicknesses of the new foopeg brackets), I believe I'm gonna need to do this greasing job a bit more frequently. I don't wanna take a chance on that "special" pivot bolt getting stuck like the stock one did.........

You can call it freeze, you can call it stuck, you could even call it bunged up but the truth is it's the result of rust and we all know how to make things rust fast.

Both air and water are necessary for iron to rust.  Remove the O2 (Oxygen) and the H2O (Water) and you have no Iron oxidation.

... and for those who did not pay attention in high school, now you know how to prevent rust from happening 🤓 

Edited June 11Jun 11 by lemur