mr neutron Posted Sunday at 08:57 PM Share Posted Sunday at 08:57 PM (edited) Hi, All! Working on making my recently purchased 1974 TY250 rideable. I'm doing repairs from probably decades of neglect, abuse, and a bit of "Hillbilly Engineering" from the previous owner(s). At the same time, I'm making a few minor "upgrades"; like the Sammy Miller wide footpegs that lower and move the pegs slightly rearwards. This requires removal of the swingarm bolt. While that bolt is out, I thought I'd look into replacing the grease nipple and the pivot bushings. I got the swingarm bolt out after somewhat of an epic battle. Now I'd like to get the long inner bushing out; the one sorta shaped like a long dog bone that goes completely through the swing arm pivot and the plastic bushings. After that, I'd like to replace the plastic bushings, seals, and such. But that long steel bushing I tried to describe above is really, REALLY stuck in there. I don't want to bugger it up as I need to reuse it. How is the best way to rmove this, without doing any harm? If I had a lathe, I'd turn some barstock with a step in it to use as a driver, and maybe try pounding/pushing it out that way??? Any tips from those that have done this before? Thanks, Jimmie Edited Sunday at 08:58 PM by mr neutron correct some spelling mistakes........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr neutron Posted yesterday at 12:28 AM Author Share Posted yesterday at 12:28 AM (edited) Okay, I guess I "panic-posted", THEN decided to think........ I recall having done something similar with a length of all-thread rod, some washers, some nuts, a sleeve or two, and used all this stuff similar to how a wrist pin puller/pusher works (gudgeon pin????). Will let ya know how it works out tomorrow. Thanks, Jimmie Edited yesterday at 12:31 AM by mr neutron corrected spelling errors 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted yesterday at 05:16 AM Share Posted yesterday at 05:16 AM 4 hours ago, mr neutron said: Okay, I guess I "panic-posted", THEN decided to think........ I recall having done something similar with a length of all-thread rod, some washers, some nuts, a sleeve or two, and used all this stuff similar to how a wrist pin puller/pusher works (gudgeon pin????). Will let ya know how it works out tomorrow. Thanks, Jimmie I'm sure that your puller idea will work. In case this is your next question, the plastic bushes can be hard to get out but they will shrink and fall out if you heat them up with a flame hot enough to burn the paint off the pivot tube. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr neutron Posted yesterday at 07:04 PM Author Share Posted yesterday at 07:04 PM Well, Big Lumpy Poopy Pants! It's lookin' like your idea to heat up stuff might be how it gets done, feetupfun........ My efforts with my all thread puller didn't work out at all. Can't get that inner steel tube to even budge a tiny amount. It's the first time I can recall stripping nuts and all threaded rod without being able to get something to move. I have the swingarm lightly clamped in a vise while soaking in penetrating oil for now, hoping that enough liquid can get through all those holes that grease is supposed to travel through to do some good for me. Judging by how tight this long steel bushing is in the plastic bushings, and how tight those plastic bushings are pressed in the swingarm, I'm beginning to wonder if I should've not even bothered to remove them. It also makes me curious about how reassembly will go as well........ Any tips, words of encouragement, and facts pointing out what a Goober I am are welcomed! Jimmie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr neutron Posted 19 hours ago Author Share Posted 19 hours ago YAAAYYYY!!!! Success!!!!!!! A combination of soaking the inside of the pivot area overnight with WD-40, my goofy all-thread "press", and Feetupfun's suggestion of some heat got things movin' outta there! Thanks so much for your help, Feetupfun! I'm grateful! Truth be told, your posts and comments in other threads have been a help to me even when ya didn't know it. Again, Thanks!!! Now, has anyone here ever used Speed and Sports' bushing kit for a TY250? I ask because it comes with the tube the swingarm bolt goes through (the tube I just had a tough time getting out........ ), as well as the bushings and seals. But in the picture they show, it doesn't appear to be cross drilled for grease to get through like the OEM tube. Can't see how grease from the fitting is supposed to get to the pivot bolt....... Maybe I'll call them tomorrow and see what they say......... I know I could cross drill it myself, or possibly re use my tube, or........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemur Posted 12 hours ago Share Posted 12 hours ago Stock bushings are plastic, I always replaced the stock TY plastics with sintered bronze but that's because I own a lathe. Keep in mind with the bushings made from sintered bronze or self lubricating plastics and properly fitted, the job of the grease filling the tube is primarily to preclude water from entering and creating rust on the steel parts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr neutron Posted 4 hours ago Author Share Posted 4 hours ago (edited) 8 hours ago, lemur said: Stock bushings are plastic, I always replaced the stock TY plastics with sintered bronze but that's because I own a lathe. Keep in mind with the bushings made from sintered bronze or self lubricating plastics and properly fitted, the job of the grease filling the tube is primarily to preclude water from entering and creating rust on the steel parts. You're fortunate to own a lathe, Lemur. I wish I had one. Ran one for Boeing for 20+ years before retiring. I would probably do something like you did as well if I had a lathe. Would try to add spiral lube grooves to the i.d. as we did frequently for bushings I made, to allow grease to flow in....... How often do you take stuff apart to slather some grease in there? I hope that you don't have the problems getting stuff apart like I did on mine. No telling how long mine went without any sort of regular disassembly, cleaning, and re-greasing....... Here's a picture of my recently removed swingarm pivot bushing that shows the cross drilling. Are all TY250's inner bushing cross drilled like mine is? Edited 3 hours ago by mr neutron tons of misspellings...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemur Posted 3 hours ago Share Posted 3 hours ago I found that I could make bushings fit better compared to stock replacements and they lasted longer, ymmv. but I also rebuilt microtomes for ~40 years. It's the front end of the TY250A plus the foot-pegs, steel bars, hand controls and stock tires that need the most upgrading ... the stock TY kickstart lever was terrible and with some work can be replaced with something far superior off a period street bike. Wheel bearings are one of the highest service and replacement items on any trials bike, with 2 TRS on the go I buy SKF bearings 10 at a time. If your brake and clutch cables are old it's well worth replacing them for the performance gains at the lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guy53 Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago From my experience even if you grease regularely the swingharm it still '' freese '' , I think the answer is to take the swingharm apart a couple time a year clean regrease ..... Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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