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totty79

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About totty79

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    Advanced Member
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  • Bike
    Beta evo 250

Profile Information

  • Location
    North East England
  • Gender
    Male
  1. Really hard to advise without seeing and ideally feeling them, if after de-burring a finger nail still snags then they will need filling as well - that's assuming they aren't so bad that they need to be plated and ground. Something soft like nail polish is quick and easy for small scratches. Metal filled epoxy like JB weld is long lasting, but you can do a lot of damage to the surrounding area trying to get it smooth - if you sand too early while it's soft it grains, if you do it fully cured it's really tough.
  2. Beta UK will know how they differ as they'll probably also stock seal kits for both.
  3. Thanks for the info on the 2017. I'll try the galfer pads since I've already got them, if it's still not great I'll fit a 2017 master cylinder. My pedal doesn't hit the frame, and as far as I'm aware there is no fault, all evo rear brakes I've tried have been equally poor. I know the range of travel available is limited as I've checked it when looking for ways to modify it.
  4. Just had a quick search for 2017 master cylinders, couldn't find the bore, still the same make but the outer casting is different. It's still 40mm between hole centers and I haven't seen different brake pedals listed so it should be interchangeable. There isn't much room for brake pedal travel before it hits the frame so I doubt they could reduce the bore by much. If anyone with a 2017 bike could confirm that it makes much difference I might upgrade.
  5. I've ridden 3 evos and all rear brakes were weak. On my 2012 the only thing that makes it work consistently without needing loads of force is managing the temperature, draging it before it's needed to warm it up, but not over doing it and overheating it. That's with a new Inch perfect trials own make disk, s33 pads, new fluid. (Got Galfer pads to try next) The heat and water trick works but only for 30 min for me.
  6. Measure the diameter (I've forgot it) and stick an M in front of it in a search. You'll find them cheaper that way than looking for number plate bolts. E.g. M6 plastic bolts.
  7. Betas whine, try listening to a few videos and see if they sound the same as yours.
  8. The clutch steel plates may have some light corrosion, if that's the cause it'll clear with use.
  9. Plastic bolts are the way to go, a couple of quid for a bag of 50. Best to also trim the bit of the guard that hooks under the frame so it doesn't snap off, you can get away without this bit but it helps keep muck away from the air filter.
  10. What you're describing is very subjective and could just be the flywheel weight (however it would be 100% consistent), or it could be the range of other issues that have been suggested. If it is consistent then I'd try to compare it to another 250 evo before changing anything.
  11. After the terrible initial depreciation they can stay in the 1200 to 2000 range for many years. Best not to spend too much more unless you really like shiny things.
  12. I'd change that order. You'll need tight turns and double blip long before you'd need to hop either end. Also static balancing can be good training, but most trials are no stop.
  13. Try MSM for insurance, they are one of the few where competition usage doesn't void it. I think they need a garage and a thatcham approved security device, typically chain and ground anchor. There are loads of which bike/what CC threads on here. It all boils down to personal preference, but lot's of people are of the opinion that a 125 can do everything a novice needs even for fairly large riders. Beta evo/rev 200 seems to be the most recommended. I wouldn't be too fussy about model/capacity, better to focus on mechanical condition.
  14. Be certain groove is clean, rotate boot several times to help it seat correctly before using lever.
  15. Characteristics may be more important than outright power, 125s are lively but manageable as peak power is low - it's a serious competition bike for junior riders (high compression light flywheel), 250 is comparatively lazy but still has a lot more power than a 125 - it's a detuned bike made to be controllable by the average person despite the larger capacity (lowest compression of the range, weighted flywheel). I've never ridden a 200 but those who have rave about them, I couldn't find a used one so bought a 250. 300 super smooth could also be an option. Sorry that probably doesn't help since I've recommended all of the 2T range apart from the normal 300. I've hared the 250 4T is very novice friendly but I've never ridden one.