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4Rt Clutch


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Ah, another 4rt cluth thread... should bring plenty of intrest! The mitani clutch pack is very good and is well tried and tested. I believe EBC do replacement plates but don't know of anyone using them yet. Using a good oil makes a big difference in the 4rt, there is a massive thread posted on the 2nd page of the montesa forum, probably worth a read too.

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I agree with jrsunt, there's already a lot of info on the clutch at this forum. Read it all and you'll be much wiser ( and older too :wacko: ).

I've got the Mitani clutch, but this is not really a cure to find neutral easier. It does make the clutch a bit smoother.

Edited by guys
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Actually, worn clutch plates should increase the clearance between the pressure plates, reducing the drag, which should make finding neutral easier. That said, my 4RT is a PITA to find neutral.

Change your transmission oil, bleed, and maybe rebuild, your clutch hydraulic system.

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Update on the setup I'm using: Dimpled steel plate set (available from Apico or Jitsie retailers like BVM Moto or Splat Shop) and the OEM friction plates -- 2 each 22201-KY2-000 cork and 4 each 22201-NN4-B00 new type paper -- with Valvoline Dexron VI full synthetic ATF.

I first installed the above in my 2005 4RT in May, and it worked so well I changed my 2014 4RT260 to this setup when I ran out of ELF HTX-740 later in May. I was mainly driven by the fact that HTX-740 had become unavailable in North America and only thicker oils were available. But the above dimpled-steel setup worked better for me all-around -- smoother and longer engagement, no drag, no stick after sitting a few weeks or more, easier shifting, easy to find neutral, much less expensive for oil changes, and oil that's readily available from local auto parts stores.

To give an example of the elimination of drag and stick, as a test I recently started my 2005 4RT after having it sit unused for a month, cold and in first gear, on the 2nd kick. It didn't walk away with clutch stick or drag, just sat there idling. After a little time, with the bike still stationary, I shifted it into neutral with ease.

Edited by sportsawyer
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Cheers Buddy that's a cracking reply

I did a bit of investigation work tonight, drained the oil then took a peek at the clutch

Found the issue

The Plate that holds the 6 springs in, has been very badly fixed, it has a crack from the bolt hole all the way to the middle

when its been welded its slight deformed it

so that's going in the bin and i'll get a new one

clutch itself looks mint but i might try those dimpled plates

Thanks for the help guys

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All the info about the plates is spot on .I've experimented and oil do's make a difference but when the standard plates are in hot oil for a couple of houres they start to grab.My 14 year old Kawasaki ZRX 1100 don't do it and that clutch has done 17500 mile's. The standard Mont clutch is crap and for the price of a brand new bike which mine was this year it's not good at all .

Listen to what these people are saying,as quite simply ,they're right.That's going to be the next mod on mine.

Edited by shyted
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  • 1 month later...
 
  • 3 weeks later...

Update on the setup I'm using: Dimpled steel plate set (available from Apico or Jitsie retailers like BVM Moto or Splat Shop) and the OEM friction plates -- 2 each 22201-KY2-000 cork and 4 each 22201-NN4-B00 new type paper -- with Valvoline Dexron VI full synthetic ATF.

I first installed the above in my 2005 4RT in May, and it worked so well I changed my 2014 4RT260 to this setup when I ran out of ELF HTX-740 later in May. I was mainly driven by the fact that HTX-740 had become unavailable in North America and only thicker oils were available. But the above dimpled-steel setup worked better for me all-around -- smoother and longer engagement, no drag, no stick after sitting a few weeks or more, easier shifting, easy to find neutral, much less expensive for oil changes, and oil that's readily available from local auto parts stores.

To give an example of the elimination of drag and stick, as a test I recently started my 2005 4RT after having it sit unused for a month, cold and in first gear, on the 2nd kick. It didn't walk away with clutch stick or drag, just sat there idling. After a little time, with the bike still stationary, I shifted it into neutral with ease.

Very similar to my 315R experience, although I'm running all cork frictions; results are the best clutch action of any bike I've owned.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey Dave,

Should have kept that Gas Gas I bought off you, running like a dream...................

Might see you at the Lancs event in December.

If not Merry Christmas mate and hope Santa brings you a clutch.

Dave.

Hi Dave ,havent rode the Mont at all since September as my step dad died after an horrendouse illness , so been keeping my old queen company untill she get's back on her feet . The Mont's a great bike and i like to ride it but prefere compeeting on the GasGas. I found it easier to ride than the Mont for me being an 11st 7 lbs weakling with a steel pin in the shoulder.The quallity is brill.

See me in December at the club night ? Not without a very powerful telescope you wont ,i'm in the central North sea at my work desk waiting to get a go of the shower . So the might bit is deffinately correct

As for the clutch on the bike well it really is pisch and the best oils i found were GRO and Putoline Nano . Incedently going to get the final bit's for the GasGas 280 when i'm off this time . See about finding a secondhand Ohlins shock for the rear too.

Told you it was a good and straight bike that, aint the suspension brill !

A belated merry Christmas and happy new year to you also.

Dave.

Edited by shyted
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Hi Dave,

Sorry about your step father.

Read your other post about going to a 200 Beta, big change.

I'm thinking of having a change, but the old Gasser to me to second place this weekend so I'm rethinking.

Was going to have a year on a four stroke and was looking at the Beta or the 260 RT, but might give the Mont a wide birth if you say the clutch is naff, what's actually wrong with it.

Is it just yours or a common problem on that bike, as I remember you ran it in, in text book fashion.

The Beta 250 4T' s get good reviews.

Dave.

Edited by chappo
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Thank's Dave. It's down to the plates . Mainly the friction plates . I'll look and find the solution on offer,and quite honestly ,i think you would be more able on the 4rt. Think the Beta is better to handle in a section .

If you want a ride on the 4rt you can have a blast on mine .

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