lian Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 Hello, i have problem with clutch pick-up.When im droping the clucth i can't get a good jerk (burst/spurt..don't know how proper on english). It feels like clucth disks are worn out and it slips. Before that i could pull a wheelie at 5th gear and at 1st make a good sharp "jerks", but now bike just like for easy clubman rider, it has pick-ups but soo light - i don't like this.What i did to examine:My clucth is old (2006 Raga 300), but i changed 1 plate in past 3 yrs. I just measured clucth basket - it is 9.75-9,8mm thick and 10 fingers are 17.5-18mm tall (like was stated on Jim Snells site 17 +/-1mm). I have 2 new fibre plates (i think it's "Surflex" - 3 disks kit from SplatShop) and 1 steel plate, so i swaped them around in different combinations and tried agin and again - nothing changed. If basket was thicker than needed (10mm thick and fingers 14mm tall) - lever just was hard to push, but no sharp pick-ups on revs, just the same as with proper thikness with light lever. If basket was 9.6 and 9.7mm (fingers ~19mm tall) - lever was so light but veeery low pick-up when droping the lever.I used ATF Dexron III of different brands, used Ipone Box 2, Motul Transoil 10W30 - same feelings. With Motul 10W40 (i think it was synthetic 7100 or smth like this) droping a clutch was a bit better, but not as it should be.I done sand paper all my disks - no changes, bled the cluth line for some case to be shure it not affect - line is ok, but no changes. I don't know what's wrong with my cluch disks. Easy way just buy new original pack but it's so expensive with my currency exchange, so i need to be sure i tried everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Do you have free play at the lever? You must have a loose feeling between the lever and master cylinder. At 10mm it should not slip. Are you using a proper gasket? You cannot just use silicone for a gasket. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lian Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Ofcourse i have a free play and yes im using proper gasket. About oil - most of the time i used ATF, just in past year start changing because this weird clutch slipping. So it starts even when ATF was inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 There are dimensions given somewhere for the spring,it could have become weak over time,You've checked everything else,ATF normally gives a good sharp bite,all the dimensions are correct,there's only the spring left,I'd fit a new one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lian Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 (edited) What spring? I don't see any spring inside, just disks, plates and fingers, which form "belleville spring". Do you mean this? If so - i wrote i measured it in some variants (14, 17, 18,5mm tall) Edited April 19, 2016 by lian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 (edited) I did mean Bellville spring,it's nothing to do with the pack thickness or finger height or plates.If you order one from wherever you get your bits from they'll know what you mean Edited April 19, 2016 by huski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lian Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 (edited) Did you mean this - №5 MUELLE EMBRAGUE TRIAL / CLUTCH SPRING - MT280232015. I usually order at Splatshop UK, but i can't find this part number at them... Is this "spring" deforming when clutch dis/engaging and will somehow become more flat with time or what? But even if it flattened now, when i give good burst of throttle, without clutch lever pulled or my basket is thicker (all disks are closed so must be good friction), there is no good pull of bike. It pulls but at that blip of throttle i gave - i'd must flip immediately. All syptoms telling like "your clutch is slipping - basket is thin", but all measures is in correct range. So weird. Edited April 19, 2016 by lian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 The spring gets flattened with use,the clutch fingers act on it to disengage the clutch.Give Gas Gas uk a call ,they'll know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 The spring gets flattened with use,the clutch fingers act on it to disengage the clutch.Give Gas Gas uk a call ,they'll know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazybond700 Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 (edited) Does the slave cylinder move freely? The cup inside gets worn over time and makes the clutch feel bad too. But it should not cause slipping. Is your rear tyre worn? Sound like you tried the right stuff, so it could be the discs are ''broken'' because of wrong oil, or water contamination. Or the round spring has lost its power. Edited April 21, 2016 by crazybond700 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lian Posted April 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Tyre are ok Slave cylinder moves freely, had it's 2 o-ring seals changed lately. I had waterpump leakage once, but cleaned them and sandpaper too (along with metal ones), and since then i changed 2 fibre disks to Surflex but no change in compare with old ones, so i don't think it is because leaked wterpump. I will order that belville spring and will see if smth change. Need to wait couple of weeks to deliver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lian Posted April 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 (edited) One more question - to convert clutch m/c and s/c to DOT 4/5 from mineral oil, what do i need to change? Only m/c piston kit Dot? And can i use brake piston kit in clucth m/c, i see they are the same in dimensions (i have a spare one), because it is for Dot? Or i need replace whole master cylinder? And do i need to buy new Clutch Slave Cylinder O-rings (2 pcs) - MT280432047 or they accept both mineral oil and dot? At Splatshop it told: "Special oring for the GasGas TXT Pro trials bike clutch slave cylinder for use with Mineral oil or Dot 4, just make sure you use the correct oil for the rest of the system as using other types of oils may cause the seals to swell", but it can't be chosen mineral oring or dot, so i assume it is the same? Edited April 21, 2016 by lian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heffergm Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Why do you want to convert it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 I converted my 2009 to dot 4. Slave cylinder seals work with dot 4 and mineral. However master cylinder rubber boot and seal kit need to be changed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lian Posted April 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 @heffergm I read here in clutch-threads about dot convertion and it seems like making clutch lever lighter (i don't know 100% but want to try, and i have spare brake piston kit to try). @baldilocks Thanks - what difference have you felt? and since rubber boot is outside of m/c bore, i thnk there's no reason, from what kit it came - mineral or dot? Question about slave cylinder seal - see picture below: Mine now has only 2 o-rings on that protruding rod, but in manual it's seen one more seal (green one #11), that i have bought last year and wanted to change, but when i've removed top-hat (slave cylinder piston) i didn't seen it, so i left as it was, with 2 orings, just changed them by new. I used mineral oil all time since i bought this bike. And lately i've removed clutch cover again (when was struggling with my main problem - slipping clucth) and tried to put this green seal inside top-hat (like i showed in 3D in right side). But i don't understand how it need to work - it just sits inside hat at the bottom and don't do nothing special, just pushed hat a little further to 10 fingers, just like i'd put a thick washer under this hat. It also does not fit on this rod instead of o-ring. How this all needs to be in proper view? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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