kawasixtyfour

i have the same problem with mine (as im always falling off) just knock into neutral and pin throttle wide open and kick off a few times but make sure you clear its throat and you will be away. please remember these engines were actually designed for motocross bikes in the early eighties an they arnt used to burbling about so when they get too much fuel they just dont want to know!

yeah i can remember woodhouse farm too! im the youngest of four brothers so they all rode trials there and so did i with not much luck lol. it was middlesbrough club that ran these trials and it was geoff wright who was club secratary and clerk of the course. if you go to a middlesbrough easy trial now its paul wright that sticks the flags in. and yeah there was a few motocross meetings held thereback in 1999 and they where run by a club called white rose motocross club (i think) and it only lasted a year. i remember the first meeting they held there really well as i knocked myself out in the second race of my class at the top of the first long hill!! went there a couple of years back to a trf meeting but the enduro job was just too boring.

hey there my local scorpa dealer has the clothing in stock give him a ring on 01642 475600 its andy metcalfe motorcycles and he does do mail order. noticed you have the little four banger i have the 125 its more than anyone needs many riders are over biked! good luck with your gear. thanks steve.

hi there ever heard of the old saying, stick with what you know? alot of people recommend atf but if you were going to change what gear oil you use i would recommend silkolene comp gear. as for your mates gas gas assuming its a pro depending on how much oil you put in the clutch will perform differently, as a rule half way up the spy glass using comp gear will have the same results as using the atf and you have peace of mind your using a good quality gear oil. Thanks for reading hope this helps you out, Steve.

--> QUOTE(John B @ Oct 20 2007, 05:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> At a trial this afternoon, and arrived at the first section (right next to the car park). Coolant was coming out of the overflow (I have the overflow pipe cable tied to the frame, directed at the exhaust). Didn't think a great deal - rode to the second section, and it was the same, and the third and so on. Not constantly coming out, but regularly. Finished the first lap and topped the water up - there wasn't a great deal had gone out. Second lap - exactly the same - regular overflow of coolant - and (couldnt figure this out) - the fan was constantly on.......After the second lap, decided to retire - Im not a quitter, but engine preservation was top of my list! Had a brief look - took the rad cap off, started the bike up and coolant was circulating. No gunge in the oil, so water pump seal presumed to be ok. However, regarding the rad cap, you can blow through it from the rad side, with no restriction (it is restricted, - but mainly due to the fact you are blowing through a 5mm bore pipe !) Surely the rad cap should be sealed, and open under water pressure when water is boiling ? Thinking about it, after last weeks trial, when I was washing the bike, noticed the overflow tube was detatched from the rad cap. Snapped it back into place and never thought anything about it ? - Is this linked or a coincidence? Summary ...... I think it's the rad cap which is not letting the water get to pressure, and allowing it to come out of the overflow pipe. Is the fact the rad is not getting to preddure the reason why the fan is constantly on ? Help would be appreciated ! cheers John. hi there john, having assumed that when the cylinder head was removed it was checked for visable signs of cracks or disortion? If you are confident that this was not the problem having realised that after all this work you still have the problem (after all this is process of elemination). with coolant you have to look at where the coolant passes, first the rad then the pump then through the crankcases then through the cylinder wall then through the cylinder head then back to the rad. sounds easy but then think of where pressure maybe forced in. two strokes need crankcase pressure to run.not saying this is entering from crankcases but maybe from crankcase to cylinder joint (base gasket). really in my opinion i would have the cylinder head pressure checked and milled or skimmed as i have seen so many people doing work they didnt have to, while the cylinder head is off check the cylinder too it may be worth changing the base gasket while it is in bits but my suspicion is with the cylinder head being cracked or more than likely warped. thanks for reading. steve.

--> QUOTE(John B @ Nov 3 2007, 04:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Update......!Replaced the radiator cap - still dripping Did a trial like this - the bike ran no problem - just the odd drip from the overlow. Phoned Nigel Birkett (who have been very helpfull) and decided to bite the bullet and replace the head gasket. Good tip from Nigel - to avoid taking the engine out, replace the studs in the barrel and replace with Alan bolts. Stripped down - looked like this was the problem, as there was an area where it looked like either the coolant was leaking, or it was blowing past as there was slight 'browning' inside the water passage. Put back together - fired up - sounds very crisp. Ran for a minute or so....................THEN STARTED TO DRIP !!!!!!!!!!! Completely unsure where to go now - nothing left to replace ! Water pump seal must be ok - no water in the oil - oil is clean as a whistle replaced one hose - other is ok Radiator ok - no leaks replaced rad cap replaced head gasket aaaaggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!! john.