gwhy

out-runners can produce much more power for there size than a equivalent in-runners this is mainly due the the kv is so much higher bit there other factors also. it a revolt motor was geared well the yes 5-8kw will be possible maybe even 12kw in bursts

I would be very wary of the claim of 14kw.. even 8kw the so called 14kw bikes I have seen in racing conditions (with allegedly power turned down to 8kw ) and they defo do not have even 8kw's on tap( more like 2 const at most in my option for what its worth) really need to see the size of the motor to be 100% sure .

why would you need a clutch for those other disciplines? just curious.. :-)

You can have the same speed bike at what ever voltage its designed for, Just because it runs on high voltage don't by default make it fast. I thought I would just put this out there as I don't what people to get the wrong end of the stick.

Wow is the battery really 300v !! Im very supprised at that as its a off road bike. Scape the idea about a direct dc charger as you will still need to boost even 240v even higher

you would be better off looking for a low voltage DC generator to charge the battery directly instead of using the 240v mains charger... what voltage is the battery on the ktm? i.e what is the voltage output of your charger ?

that gen will output a constant of around 11A @ 230v

I think the rv120 may not be very suitable for long term reliability on any off-road bike due to it being a outrunner so it will have to be very carefully protected from the elements to stand any chance of survival , the motor itself would be powerful enough for what you want but the motor would need hall sensors fitted ( I dont think they have them by default ) you will also need to find a good enough controller to drive it. I cant remember to much about the guys oset trials to mx conversion but I do know he extended the swingarm and I believe he changed the front forks for something that had a mx pedigree also fitted 10" mx wheels , and used the stock 16" motor and controller.

http://www.raffebikes.com/

lv alarms will only be connected when riding ( bike is in use ) they will need to be removed when balance charging the battery's.. You dont need a watt meter permanently on the bike but it is a very useful tool to have for fault finding and making sure the bike is running as it should be, so well worth having in the tool box anyway. cell checker are again just very useful for testing batterys to find any potential problems, Cell checkers are basically a LV alarm but with a display of each voltage for each cell.. Watt meter : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__75951__Turnigy_180A_Watt_Meter_and_Power_Analyzer_UK_Warehouse_.html Watt meter with 6 cell checker : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__26011__HobbyKing_HK_010_Wattmeter_Voltage_Analyzer_UK_Warehouse_.html Cell checker : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__75947__Cellmaster_7_Digital_Battery_Health_Checker_UK_Warehouse_.html Cell checker : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31811__HobbyKing_8482_Battery_Medic_System_2S_6S_UK_Warehouse_.html lv alarm : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__45911__HobbyKing_8482_Lipoly_Low_Voltage_Alarm_2s_6s_UK_Warehouse_.html lv alarm : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42953__HobbyKing_8482_Cell_Checker_with_Low_Voltage_Alarm_2S_8S_UK_Warehouse_.html When Buying lipos make sure you buy lots of spare plugs and sockets ( the same as what is on the batterys ) to make up the wiring harness as pre made wirings is not always available for some lipo plugs. its sometimes easier to make adaptors than change plugs and sockets on the batterys and/or on the bike/charger leads.

do sound like a faulty relay, but without a circuit diagram then its anyones guess.. if it has a relay then I would replace it any way or at least test it as it is easy enough.

thanks for the write up ...

the screw is not a locking mechanism and purely is only there to stop the sprocket from falling off the end of the shaft , the sprocket should have no play on the shaft even without the screw in place teh sprocket should be pushed far enough onto the shaft that the screw can be tighten with out having to push against the sprocket.. if this makes sense.

first I would swap out the throttle, it may have a loose magnet or a broken ( intermittent ) wire/connection to the sensor in the throttle body.

I think that the #25H chain has thicker side plates which makes it stronger but the actual size of the chain that runs on the sprockets is the same size as standard #25. so a #25 sprocket should be good for any #25 chain

cool 219 is kart chain .. and is about the strongest you are going to get for the size.

look at the lifepo4's, and the bms's as my last couple of posts, this is the easiest and cheapest turnkey solution... make 2x 12v batterys ( what ever capacity you need, they come as 4ah and 8ah ) and treat them as 2 seperate 12v batterys exactly the same as you current batterys. a 4ah 12v lifepo4 battery will be eqivelent to about a 8ah sla in this aplication i would go for the 8ah option then add to them if needed

The pack in the link will not supply enough current for reliable operation, The bms has a spec of constant 20A peak 35A, for a 16 I would guestimate you would need at least constant of 40A peak 80A ( but this still may not be enough , its a gamble). The storage issues will be the same for any soft pouch Li chemistry , and charging can be as simple as turnkey ..

without knowing the battery that BR was running its very hard to say, he may of had a weak cell group in his pack or a connector that was getting hot and becoming high resistance. In theory there should be no difference at the very minimum ( but there should be a increase in performance ) 24v sla fully charged is around 26v and a fully charged 6s lipo is around 25.2v so not that much difference in voltages and both battery chemistries will reduce in voltage as they become discharged, the sla will run down much quicker than the lipo.. so to answer your question is: I would need more information about the pack that BR was using.. once a sla gets down to around 10.5v ( 21v for a 24v setup ) its classed as flat which is going to be around the same voltage as a lipo ( if being on the safe side not running a bms or lv alarms ) but a cell level flat lipo is 3.2v per cell i.e 19.2v .. a weak cell in a pack will make the whole pack sluggish once it get to around 80% SOC ( state of charge ) there are ways to test for weak cells. The controller and motor do not really care where the voltage and amps come from so this should not effect the over all performance

yes I would balance charge every time just for the fact that the charger will only charge the battery if all the cells are ok and will also warn you fir there is a problem wiht the individual cells. The small blade fuses at around 5A start to warm up and this constant warming up and cooling down messes with the blade fuse holder so you start to get a bad connection to the fuse then its just down hill from there .. you can end up with a melted fuse holder and still a bad connection. the maxi blade fuse/fuse holder is much better as there is more mass so it remains cooler so it not so effected .. strip link/midi fuse holder I have found to be very good and dont suffer from the heating and cooling effects. ebay is always good for getting these sort of things i.e http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Strip-Link-Midi-Fuse-Holder-with-50A-60A-80A-100A-Fuses-for-Car-Truck-Van-/171248103184?var=&hash=item27df2eaf10:m:mYBx3QtIVk71W-qroogCW9Q for the small fuse a blade fuse/fuse holder will be ok or someting smaller like a mini blade fuse/fuse holder http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/In-Line-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Holder-with-6-Fuses-12V-30A-Car-Automotive-/262131520883?hash=item3d08419573:g:YTwAAOSw3ydV3v76 5A fuse or lower will be fine. the bike will perform better with the new batterys, it will have a little more power and a little more top speed, I would have thought it would be a 20A minimum fuse as standard maybe even 40A fuse.. the new batterys will be able to output maybe 200-300A if shorted together ( you dont want to do that!! ) , just because i said real life only 2C dont mean to say thats all they will put out, 2C is what I tested them for that give the rated capacity and voltage and they will not warm up at a constant 2C , a constant 5C starts to get a bit of warm in them so its more to do with looking after the batterys but even a 2C 20Ah battery will be fine on a small bike and should give a long service life. 24v @ 40A is around 960W and the motors at not even rated for that. The controller will limit the current to I tihnk around 40A anyway ( ok it may be a bit lower on the 12.5 but on the 16 its 40A ). you will get better pull on hills just because of the fact that the voltage will not sag as much as sla's , e.g a sla 24v @ 40A will sag down to maybe around 16v and 16v @ 40A is around 640W but lipo will only sag around 2v max so 22v @40A is 880W these are just examples as it depends on age of the sla's and how cold the weather is and what the current limit is set for on the controller.

Thanks for the high five :-) .. HK chargers are ok and when balance charging a battery will make a 97% reliable charging setup, the lost 3% can be down to user error, faulty charger or incorrectly setup charger. the balance taps/plugs are the weak point on these batterys they are not very robust also the balance wires are quite fragile so this is the biggest point of failure. so you need access to the balance taps if charging on the bike and keeping the plugs protected when bike is in use. Personally I would not do on bike charging ... if something should go wrong then you will loose the bike if its not contained. its easier to put just the battery's in a fire safe area to charge than the whole bike. lipo alarms are a very good idea but comes back to physically connecting them to the balance plug , the plugs/wires are fragile. A hard case/box is a very good idea and will protect from physical damage but never---never---never put them in a strong sealed box , the box needs to be vented .. I have been using army surplus ammo boxes ( with vents ( very important )) to store/use and charge my batterys .. they are cheap and available charging sacks are designed for 1 battery in each sack and each sack needs a lot of free space for it to be effective. fit a main fuse (40A+ depending on oset model, dont use a blade fuse) as near to the battery as possible on the main discharge lead of the battery this fuse should stay with the battery even if the battery is removed from the bike, this will protect from shorts whilst on the bike and when its removed for what ever reason. do not run a watt meter upto the handle bars , this increases the high power wire lengths which cause a voltage drop also it increases the likely hood of a short happening , keep a watt meter as close to the battery as pos as it goes inline between the battery and the controller , voltmeter on the handle bars is fine , but fit a small fuse inline with it as near to the battery as possible. the balance wires are thin but this is sort of a good thing,, should a balance wire short to another the wire acts like a fuse and normally burns through ( but never assume this will happen ) the 3 batterys that I have been asked to look at where the balance wires have shorted have all just blown the actual wire. A main fuse if positioned in the circuit well will protect the batterys and the wiring from a short as will a small fuse for a voltmeter .

if you do a lifepo4 36v battery as in the same voltage as 3x 12v sla batterys then the standard 36v charger will work but you must have a bms you will need 12 lifepo4 cells to make the 36v battery the easiest way would be to buy 3 of these http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__14074__ZIPPY_Flightmax_8400mAh_4S2P_30C_LiFePo4_Pack.htmlthat will make up one 8.5ah 36v lifepo4 battery and source a suitable 12s bms tehn you just wire it together edit: just been looking for a suitable bms .. and found this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-90A-Battery-Protection-BMS-Board-w-Balance-for-4-Packs-LiFePo4-li-batteries-/171928485718?hash=item2807bc7f56:g:QoIAAOSw9N1VkUl2 if you buy 3 of the above bms then this will be cost effective.. you would need to fit a 4s bms to each battery.

Its not hard as long as you are ok with soldering and testing the bms function after you have put it together , the hard part is finding a suitable bms for lipo that will be ok for these bikes.. lifepo4 : more expensive, heavier,bigger .... easier to source a bms .. more forgiving .. bms should protect from abuse lipo : cheaper,ligher,and smaller ..... harder to source bms .. less forgiving .. bms should protect from abuse

is there anything stamped on the side plates of the new chain as regards the size ? if its 219 then you can use 219 rear sprockets ( all sizes approx £6 from ebay ) but you would need a adaptor to mount the sprockets to the rear wheel, oset sell the adaptor but i have just looked on there web site and cant find it, in fact cant find any sprockets at all. I did manage to find a picture of it tho...

yes if its a larger chain then the diameter of the rear sprocket would be about the same i.e the 90T ( 25 ) would be around the same dia as a 68T (219) but you would still have to change the front sprocket to match the chain type.