bob

I was on about uying second and, and I will spend more, but I would just like something to mess about on after school. Are you selling this X hydra? How much for? Would you post it if I were to send you a cheque or something?

Good stuff, I am going to ring round afew bike shops aswell, thanks, not too bothered about time, Scarborough is good for me as my dad works there.

Hi everyone. I know this kind of topic sometimes p****s some people off, but I want to start riding bike trials as a bit of extra practice. I only have about 120 quid to spend so I am looking for a cheap 20 inch bike. I don't expect to get Hydraulic brakes but do not want HS11's, Good V'brakes would do me. I have had a go on my mates mission prodigy, and found it to be really good fun, but I am relatively new to bike trials, I was thinking about a mission, a megamo or an onza. What bike would you reccomend? Anyone you know in my area (N. Yorkshire) selling one cheap. I saw this one on e-bay, would it be a good beginners bike for a small 16 year old? I saw this bike On ebay, would it be suitable. Thanks to those who can give me help, and sorry to thse who just think I am being annoying.

Here you go then. I sent you a pm to print off aswell, but this is probably the quickest way, I copied and pasted it straight off the website so it is definately correct. 2000 Models - Frequently Asked Questions Rev-3 2000 Engine Oil - 550cc Mini Auto 150cc, Rev-3 50cc 800 to 850cc (Check on oil change) Fork Oil - LEFT Take out the spring. Fork fully compressed, 140mm air gap at top of fork RIGHT Fork fully compressed, 60mm air gap at top of fork

You can get full details from John Lampkins website, click here Then click on 'previous models' and then on '2000' then 'FAQ'. Hope this helps. If you have any problems with your bike which can't be sorted out on here don't hesitate to e-mail them, they are really helpful and they know how to fix anything on a Beta.

I think that what you are trying to say is that trials looks very complicated compared to the flat out mayhem and excitement of motocross, and therefore isn't as appealing to newcomers to motorsport. In my opinion what trials needs to get people involved is a TV show where a bunch of amateurs attack big rocks and the like with hilaroius results, but of course not too many injuries or that would put peole off. It would also need abit of amazing stuff chucked in, but people want to see crashes!

Leaking spokes are an annoying and recurring problem in my experience. If I were in your situation I would wap a tube in and have done with it. For me spending hours greasing nipples and siliconing the rim tape in is just not worth it to fix a puncture when it can be fixed for little cost in 30 minutes and the problem won't come back, of course you then run the risk of puncturing the tube and the tyre will leak again, but it is not often that anything goes right through a tubeless tyre which will puncture a tube.

Looks like I will be having to get a new one, so each bike has its own throttle cable and sleeve to match the carb and throttle. I think tha cable has just stretched as it is the origonal one, and I like my throttle to be really responsive. Thanks, and thanks Stu for your comment about my bike. Are there no trials dealers in Hong Kong or summert, why use BVM whick is based in the UK???

What age do you have to be to participate in a Hare and Hounds. A mate of mine has a trail bike and is allways bragging about his abilities, could he enter at the age of 15 and then we could all laugh at him?

So how does the throttle cable attatch to the slider??? Is thr throttle bable attatched to the slider? counds abit expensive to produce to me, thanks for your help though. My nipples have not fallen off to date, but I will take your word for it and will restrain myself from playing with my bikes nipples.

Just a little problem. I would like to tighten my throtle cable, but have run out of thread on the adjuster, can I just remove the top of my carb and pull the slider out and then adjust a screw or something? My bike is a 03 rev3 Thanks Bob

might be worth a quick e-mail though Might save a fair bit

Right... From Issue 16, ACU bike talk mag I hope this helps, 25% off sounds quite good so long as postage isn't too much and that you can fit the tyre your sen.

I think that I use 10 30, not sure though, It is 500ml though to put in. I change my gearbox oil every 4 months, which is every 4 trials and quite alot of practice. Although oil is cheaper than metal, it will last alot longer than the reccomended time. I know someone who has a brand new 4RT and he didn't change the engine oil which came in the bike for about 5 months, and he was riding it about every other weekend.

Going back to r2wtrials' quiestion. I am not sure but I think that I read in the old ACU magazine that the ACU who get discount for alot of stuff can do all sorts of tyres really, cheap. I'll have a quick look for the magazine and get some more details as soon as possible. Bob

Hutch Coat / wizard paintwerx (same place) near Malton do it. Have a look at Marks website. www.wizardpaintwerx.co.uk They are not too far from you and thye should be able to sort you aout. Mark has painted wheels before and I think that Neil will be able to rebuild it for you if you ask nicely. bob

That sounds about right to me. If anyuthing was broken then you would probably notice it whilst wasing, washing your bike regularly is therefore one good way to prevent getting stuck in the middle of newhere.

I read somewhere that you need to be careful when doing this as the oil can get drawn through into the carb which causes all sorts of silly problems. A good idea though, I do it, just do not use too much!

I'm not sure if it needs a suspension rebuild yet, it has had very little use but I might consider it if you think it is a good idea and I have nowt else better to do as I had it done once before and it didn't take long. Thanks, I will have a look for that screw today. Bob

On my bike I thought that there was no screw, but it cound be inside that massive red allen bolt. But what do I know, I never notice minor details or stuff breaking on my bike, but all ways seem to notice stuff on other peoples bikes straight away. Thanks, I will be back here if I have any more problems Bob

Thanks everybody, it is an alln bolt on the right fork leg right? And screw in to harden it up. You are on about the forks aren't you, not the rear suspension. I was in abit of a hurry when I typed this and I wasn't very specific. I quite like my rear end to be abit softer for just a little more grip, plus bouncier forks let me bounce the front wheel a little more easily and higher. Thanks Bob

Hi everyone, I have begun to progress a little recently to bigger steps and have run out of bounce on my bike, the suspension seems too slow, Can I make it a little more springy, my bike is an 03 rev3. My old sherco had a little knob but there doesn't seem to be one on this one. Thanks Bob

someone was on about this very recently, kave a flick through the recent Beta forums, they said that they had it rebuilt I think.

Fair point Scorpion. A quick action throttle probably would make it snappier, you could try removing the flywheel weights aswell which might help, both of which are cheap and easy alternatives to changing the piston and barrel.

Wouldn't it be easier and probably cheaper just to buy a 270? I agree with stu though, the 250 does feel better, but everyone is different I suppose.