bob

Ok, I have prised the radiator off its mounts and over the exhaust, and the bushes came out pretty easily, most difficult thing was undoing the screws, definately using alien bolts or normal bolts, might use normal bolts at the bottom so they won't collect mud. Thanks for your advice, hopefully my local dealer will have the bushes in stock, I cant remember those names very well so now i will be able to take an example with me. Thanks everyone!

is it any good to rev the hell out of it in 2nd and then the back end cannot kick and spin and keep well back, just keeping steady momentum?

radiator isn't in the way but the exhause curves round ontop of itself blocking access, i will get a photo some time. thanks, any more advice would be welcome

However much you like really depending on the length of your stand pipe. When I had my sherco I shortened the stand pipe so that it would last longer without going onto reserve. The shorter the stand pipe the less in reserve but it is all one tank, i don't think that the tank is seperated either!

Well don't lose any bits you take off whatever, keep em in a pile which you know where it is or even better freezer bags are something like that. This is where doing one bit at a time is helpful aswell.

Does the dead mans kill switch earth the spark plug like an ordinary switch or does it cut the connection completely? Because at high revs the voltage is so high that when earthed there is still enough energy to jump the gap on the plug, this means that it keeps firing and the only way of stopping it is shutting off the throttle or disconnecting the spark plug. You may have a kill switch which disconnects it but it is unlikely as as far as I know kill switches are an earth. Where does the dead mans kill switch connect to?

ok then, i aint sure this will be as easy as you reckon tough! 1. how do you get to the bolt on the header pipe, and what with, it looks impossible? 2. How do you get the screw out which screws into the old rubber, it is really tight, should I drill it out? I cannot get it out with a screwdriver, if i do get it out then i will replace it with allen bolts. 3. how do you then take out the old rubber thing without damaging the radiator or top mounting? is it easy to grip. how long did this take you, i may have to do it after a trial. are these things available to order online from BVM? this is all probably common sense which i have ben told I lack, but HOW? thanks

yep, plus if you do this it will push any water out of the bearings when you fill it.

Ok, hello I probably won't be much help her but i took my head stock apart today and put a grease nipple in since the school bus got stuck. Firstly take off the bars and the front brake calliper. Then take off the top yolk by undoing the bolt in the middle and the two alien bolts, You will then need to unscrew the lockring which holds the bearings in place. Then tap the top of the steerer tube with a rubber mallet and it should all drop out (make sure the fromt end is off the ground and you might want to take the front wheel out before doind this) once that is out you should be able to pop the bearings out top and bottom. To get the cones out use a hammer and one of them round ended chisel things (not pointy) and you shoud find that there are two notches on the inside the headset to tap them out, do the bottom one from the top and the top one from the bottom and visa versa. You will also have to remove the cone from the bottom of the steerer tube, mind out for the washer with an o'ring when doing this, use some heat and a chisel if it is too tight or leave it on. Pack loads of grease in everywhere, I used some high quality waterproof teflon based grease. I put a grease nipple in half way up the headset to one side thus allowing easy access but ensure it is not in your frame or petrol tank or you will end up filling that with grease! When you grease just grease most stuff, when steel bolts into alluminium put some grease on there but not copper slip because electrolysis can occur, use some good clean grease or you wil have it all ovr when you have it all to take apart again. If you wanna loctite stuff that is up to you but it can be annoying to get off again, if you regularly check your bolts then you should be ok on most stuff without it. With the water there is a drain bolt on the water pump housing, i believe there are three bolts holding the outside on then one in the middle which is the drain bolt. Take this out and keep it safe, the have a bucket at the ready and undo to top of the radiator and the water should come pouring out as soon as you crack to top open. Good luck! Hope this helps. bob

I have put a long zip tie round the bottom of the radiator for now, it seems to be holding it abit for now.

I have a rev 3 and the radiator is mounted on three rubbers which look to be bonded to metalwashers. But from there i dont have a clue how it is attatched. The rubbers seem to have come unstuck from the washers on both the bottom bolts, how is it meant to be and how is this rubber thing attatched to the frame and radiator, it is very difficult to see now it has collapsed. Any advice would be helpful, and has anybody ever expeienced this before? What new parts do i need? This probably sounds abit stupid but I really am confused by this one. Thanks.

Has anyone got to level 18 (spiral) on the elastomania game and completed it, where are the apples?

I haven't visited this forum for a while but I obviously caused abit of an arguament about the gas gas comment I made. Gassers are great bikes to ride! But everywhere I go round here people keep saying that they break down all the time and I have seen them breaking down all the time and often see Beta riders stopping to help. It may well just be that gas has riders are just too 'hard core'? As for the colour it looks black to me, I am supposedly colour blind though but not too much, Has anyone ever looked into those stupid dotted circles? I saw completely different stuff to everybody else! SORRY

When I have seen people in this situation then the best thing to do is to grab the clutch and pick the bike up. Quite often though my bike will not run upside down!

What I meant was that just the annoyange of having to untie yourself every time, but if you pull it out then that aint a problem. I prefer the button and have not yet fallen off and let it revving do I am gonna stick with it. i will probably end up following your suggestion when I have found out for myself the consequences! Good luck with fitting your stop button though phil.

That is what happens, just wait it will load, it is quicker second time round, helps if you make it available offline, it is best to play full screen

I had a 125 sherco for almost two years, It was fine for about a year but by the time i was 14 and a half it just didn't have enough pull on the hill climbs and i was allways stuck in first or struggling for power. I read closely into my ACU handbook and found that if you are 16 you can ride unrestricted in the clubman classes, so i was able to get a 200 without breaking any rules. I think that this is still abit too old thiugh. However round here they aren't bothered if you turn up to a trial on a 250 with the stickers taken off, as far as the club is concerned they said it was my problem. Not all clubs would be the same though.

I have those pictures and I have just e-mailed them to you now.

There is a third breather/overflow that the petrol could be leaking out of on the bottom of the carb. If it is coming out of here then it could be badly set float height or it may be syphening the fuel out which is what it was doing on mine but again that could be because of badly set float height, I did the mod crafty piggy was on about and re routed the breather on the bottom of the carb to stop syphening. I think that what was happening was that on tickover the 'suck' of the engine was not great enpugh to pull the petrol back into the carb, but when you open the throttle it is able to suck the petrul back up the tube into the carb, try putting the tube on a more level route. I found that the other mod did help when riding downhill but did not cure the problem completely, especially when the bike was on the stand.

Yep, as I said in the beta forum phone John Lampkin, On my bike i did not have to 'cut into' anything. The kill button had just been pulled off from a 'spade'connector. The earth wire was not there though, you may need to attatch one. Chris at John Lampkin will tell you where the best place to earth is.

Ok, I wont be staying anywhere but thanks for the advice, I only live 30 mins drive away from Rosedale. I also aint old enough to drink beer in pubs yet, but it wont be long.

I'm off, I can take afew photos but can't garauntee good photos or any of any good sections because I have never been before so I am bound to get lost. Marky boy, is that Mark a.k.a. divy?

what! they do allways break down. Igot my handbook today unforturntely handbook not on CD, aint bothered though it is just the same really, seems the same as last years really but with different dates.

is moto racer 3 available for PC then?

It was my second time applying and i didn't need to send a passport photo, My CD hasn't come yet but it is good to know that others are only just beginning to recieve theirs. That gasser looks awesome in black ausy300pro, I was thinking about getting one but then remembered their reliabilty problems and got a beta.