bob

Very much about 175 quid. bob

Yeah, I spoke to a bloke from west country windings when exactly the same thing that happened to STC happened to me, he said that the triggers would cause this problem, if you take your flywheel off and the black box on the stator towards the front lower side has corroded contacts than you can pretty much be sure that that is your problem since this is the timing trigger. Bob

My bike was misfiring at middle revs (posted on here about a month ago) although it was not as serious as yours sounds. if you try everything without replacing anything then give JLI a call, I did and they sent me a CDI unit and a Stator and they were fine for me to send back any unrequired parts. Mine needed a new stator. Bob

I'd say that the best way to make your bike better is to just keep all of the current parts in good working order, after all Beta probably made it as best they could, or so you'd hope. Don't worry beta basher, there's a bloke in my village who hates me, afew people on the internet being mildly abusive is nowt to worry about. Bob

It's the same for me, I allways use higher gear when practicing, but in a trial you will be in a proper section and so stuff will be happening much too fast in second if you are surrounded by unfamiliar rocks and stuff. bob

I've never ridden a zero but I allways get stuck for which gear to use and I find that on most trials unless it is slippery it is best to use a low gear, on most trials I use first for atleast 8 of the 10 sections. It all depends on the section, and your riding style I suppose. bob

It also shows that very little mechanical knowledge can save you a whole load of cash, fitting a kickstart shaft is a very easy job, all you need is a spanner an alled key and a replacement gasket I think, possibly some circlip pliers. Bob

there are ignition timing diagrams on JLI's website. www.thetrialcompany.com If you have a bike which is <03 model or which is a 200 then it will have a different stator so don't set your ignition timing up like this! Bob

I do that, but just wondered if there was anything else that I could do. I am going to take the rubbe rthing off tomorrow which seals the wires from the stator in and put some silicone on, I figure this will stop water from getting in behind the flywheel. Atleast if it doe sit again then I will know where to look first. Thanks, bob

All is fixed now and running better than ever. The Stator was the problem. No any tips on how to stop this happening again, do you silicone your covers on or any other tips such as removing the cover regularly? Thanks

I have tried West country windings, but because it is a six coil stator they couldn't replace the core part as they weren't able to get these, and I found the only place that could was in Spain (Bradford Electrics I think). I have been riding the bike between changes, and I will do when I start changing electrical components. From what I gather there are two problems which stators suffer from; 1 corrosion which is what is wrong with mine and the bloke at WCW said that this is quite common. In this case you cannot tell that the stator is damaged by testing it with a multimeter, you must put a new one on the bike and see if it still does it. 2 The typical Beta problem when the coils become unwound abit due to vibration and your bike will not run atall. If you have a four coil stator then WCW can do them 'until the cows come home' as the bloke said. Cheers Bob

well I didn't disagree with any of your opinions, each one made some sort of sense. I just thought I would look like abit of a muppet if I changed the stator and it turned out that it was a bloked fuel line or something. Only problem was it wasn't a blocked fuel line and it has taken me about three weeks to get round to trying everything, and then I tried to find out if I could have my stator reconditioned which took ages and I found that the only place that could replace all of the required parts was in Spain. Anyway.... I have ordered a new stator and CDI unit and I am going to try the CDI unit first since I figured that this would be easiest and least likely to get marked or anything, and if that isn't the problem then wap on the new stator. Lampkins were really helpful, and I was surprised that they weren't bothered to send me all of this stuff and would take it back if it wasn't needed. oh and the 200 has a different stator to the other bikes for some reason. Thanks folks!

I'm pretty sure now that the stator is the problem (had a chat with a bloke from a stator specialist who thought that this problem would be caused by even a small amount of corrosion on the core of certain coils which were corroded. i am going to Lamkins for help I think, but I had a look on their website and it says that the 2003 stator is one with 4 coils, why does mine have 6?????? has somebody changed it to an older type one, or did the first ones have these stators??? thanks bob

Mine is like that too, don't know if it should be, atleast if it starts touching then those brackets are easily replaceable! Somebody else will probably know more. Bob

the NGK equivelant is BP5ES. Performance wise I have been told that an NGK platinum plug is best, I cant quite remember the number, but I think that it is something like BP6EVX, I'm not sure though. The NGK website does explain its naming system if you can be bothered so you can probably find out the best performing which will suit your bike on there. I think that they use a backwards numbering system, so 1 would be hottest and 7 is coolest. Lampkins website is this Bob

it does rev up quite high before any problems develop. I can ride it around at low revs fine, it is just when you open the throttle to about half revs that it starts doing it. How can I check the seal, do I need remove the magneto? thanks, that sounds like abit of good-ish news. Bob

I've already tried that unforturnately, and it had a brand new in line filter fitted this morning, I don't think that there is any filter on the carb. Rubbers are fine, I think that it might be worth adjusting the mixture a little, but if that fails then I might aswell surrender and take it into a dealer. It could probably do with someone who knows what they are doing looking over it anyway. I have had a look on the beta website and my nearest dealer is about an hours drive away, does anyone know aof any dealers in my area who will service and repair bikes? thanks for your help, Bob

right, I have tried new fuel, new spark plug, checked the HT lead, checked the coil earth, checked the woodruff key, and it is still knocking at high revs. I am going to have a mess about with the mixture some time, should I try moving the needle up one notch, or should I try adjusting the mixture screw first?

I have chacked the woodruff key and it is syill there and in tact. I am going to try new fuel and spark plug etc tomorrrow to see if it is any better. I think that the stator looked oh, with no corrosion, except for one point. There are about six big coils, and two black boxes between two coils, one at the front and one at the back(of the bike) the one at the front seems to have quite a lot of corrosion on the tabs on the top of it, what is in there, could this be a problem? It looks like I am going to have to tae it to a dealer Thanks, Bob

I just schecked my coolant level today and wondered if you two had figured out what was cau8sing the goo, mine seems to have stopped gooing now.

I have a flywheel puller and a woodruff key off a techno so that if they are the same then I can put that one in, I am shocked at how small it is! Do I need to make or can I buy a tool to stop the engine from turning over whilst I try to undo the nut, plus when I put it back on I have marked it, but what torque should it be at, I apolagise for my 'technical numbness' cheers bob

Thanks, I allways remove the casing after riding in teh wet or washing anyway, so corrosion shouldn't be too bigger issue, I am going to borrow a flywheel puller off betatrials99 if he remembers to bring it to school tomorrow, so i should be able to see whether it is going to be easy or hard to fix tomorrow I suppose. bob

I am going to get a flywheel puller from birdies hopefully. If I take the flywheel off to check the woodruff key, which I might aswell before doing what manz said to try, do I need to mark the flywheel and casing before I remove it and put it back in exactly the same place? Also is there anything else I should do whilst I have got it off, someone told me once to spray WD40 on the stator, all of this is completely new to me, and I don't really know how any of it works so what I am saying may sound pretty stupid. If the woodruff key isn't bust then I will get back, what would cause the CDI unit to fail? What do you mean, rig up a strobo, do you just mean to connect a light to the bottom of the coil between it and the spark plug? Thanks alot!

I have cleaned my carb thoroughly, and lightly blown all the jets through with compressed air. I have taken the air box off and I have given that a good clean out, and since I had to remove most of the exhaust to get the air box out I figured that I might aswell give my front pipe a good clean out aswell. Is it worth taking a look at the ignition timing, I suspect it could be a little too advanced? I am going to deain the fuel and remove the petcock to see what is sat in the bottom of my tank. I am going to get some optimax on friday, my nearest garage is a long way away. Cheers bob

I have been for a very short analysis ride, and the problem appears to be not as bad now, but I took the plastic cover off the brake side of the engine and behind this is the metal flywheel thing over the stator, there are four screws on this, what do these hold on? I had a look through the holes in this 'wheel' where you look to see TDC and you can also see a small part of the coils on the stator from here, two of which looked to be slightly corroded. Would this be causing my problem. Would you reccomend any particular sparkplugs, could this be caused by bad fuel, I am not sure how long this fuel has been in the tin . I am going to change the fuel though to check. Bob