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guy53

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Posts posted by guy53
 
 
  1. Don't forget, you don't change the oil, run it around the backyard for 10 minute and decide. Changing type of oil take '' sinking time '' to show it's quality.

    Guy

  2. I installed a set of Gold Valve a few years back and here's what I think: They are not the ultimate thing, but for me, they made a difference on rough ground at low speed the way I set them up. You get use to them quickly and don't fell any difference until you test standard and modified forks back to back. My TY have longer and inclined shock so the steering is a little steeper than original. Are they worth the money, before a long ride no after yes.

    Guy

    • Like 1
  3. Many things to consider : the size of your hand, I have small hand, can't use some type of levers

    Type of grip : some are bigger than other.

    Do you run with one finger on the clutch to operate it

    Is your levers adjusted to your finger length, not only the '' slack '' in the cable, but the actual position of the lever on the bars

    Is your cable in good shape, I have on my TY 250b a lengthened  arm under the motor and still had a hard clutch pull until I change the cable

    Guy

     

    • Like 1
  4. The adjustment is behind the ignition cover, if you want a smoother clutch try a longer arm under the motor.

    Spacer between the intake and the cylinder and lower and back footrest.

    Guy

  5. 24 mm if that's the correct part, you can pm me with your email address so I can send you a picture of the part I measured ( it came from a box off spare but I'm pretty sure it's the correct one ).

     

    Guy

  6. Thank's for the pointer David, I checked my notes this morning and I'm running at 3.3mm so not that far. I will pay a visit to a friend of mine about the combustion chamber when I get a chance. B40rt, I haven't seen a Dellorto on a TY here, I've always heard they worked well but where more difficult to tune.

    Buy

  7. Section Swept, I have 2 Yamaha Mikuni that I fitted on the bike, the one that originally was on  is the one that use to make the test. Quite a few times after testing a new setup I change the carb for the '' other '' original to compare. Also I've been telling fellow worker to make change one step at a time and keep notes of the change and the result on different machines for more than 40 years, so I practice what I teach. I know many will change low speed jet not be satisfied play with the needle, no go change float setup....and than .. what was the original setup. I think the Wes exhaust to be an improvement. I did not mentioned that I ride more than I do sections so the motor don't get hot than cooler than hot again.

    David, your theory on the combustion chamber is interesting, if you have link on the info on that I would be grateful if you would pass it on. I have a couple head on the shelf, I would use one for test. I am shocked at the timing you set your bike, mine is setup at around 3mm BTDC. We had a couple of days with the temperature on the plus side, I think the left cover is going to be off the motor soon.

    Guy

    • Like 1
  8. I have a B model 250 with the original Mikuni that I've been trying to setup for a few years. The motor as a .005 inch head gasket, is on 3rd os, the exhaust port is '' lifted'' .020 inch, the rest of the ports are not modified, not really polish but clean. There is no modified reed valve. I run Shell super gaz with a good oil at 50:1. I fitted a Uni Filter and the motor is equipped with a Wes exhaust. I played with the timing without any real improvement.I have been fiddling with the needle eight, low speed and main jet, air screw etc. but the motor is always running hot at close throttle to 1/4 open . I fitted a VM 26mm played with it all of one summer and went back to the original Mikuni. I am thinking maybe an OKO carb might cure the problem, any experience ?

    Guy

 
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