Most of my riding buddies and myself included all put a smaller front sprocket on them to slow them, 11T is standard but they make a 10 and a 9. I use the 10 and it makes a big difference, also makes second and third gears much more usable as well
Putting a smaller front sprocket will indeed slow it down, but at the same time it will actually increase both power and torque!
Before you change it for something softer, get the ignition timing retarded by about 4mm first. That is 4mm not 4 degrees. That will tame it down. When you become more confident you can get it put back to where it was.
well that sounds like a bit of mixture youve got there. Is the main engine TL.
I checked my TL yesterday and that has five wires coming out from the stator, I dont have lights so only use one wire.
I have an old stator that just has one coil inside ( off a TL125E) model and that is fitted to the bottom of the case.
I am not familiar with the CT as they didnt bring many of those into the UK.
I do know from experiance that the cam shafts for these engines are not all the same and are timed differently as are the centrafugal advance unit with the points cam on. You might have to ignore the marks stamped on the cam shaft sprocket and time it manualy.
I wouldnt think that the magnet positition would make any difference as it is not related to the timing like a bike with cdi ignition.
Back to the electrics, It does sound like a bad earth problem, Try running an earth cable to from engine to coil / condenser, if your frame has been painted or powder coated, this can cause a problem.,
I did have a TL125S model that was fully road legal (1978) and that had a battery fitted, maybe you could find a wiring diagram for that model.
One last thing, just thinking out loud really, I think they were wired with a constant charge to the battery via a regulator / rectifier and one of the stator wires went to the light switch so was only active when the head light was turned on and there was some thing electical mounted on the fork bottom yolk that pressumably took away the power at high revs to stop the bulb blowing.
Hope this is of some help.
TLTEL
Old post I know, but this post could confuse others searching for information. The poster actually has four wires coming out of the stator. The fifth is the neutral switch wire (green) which runs very close to the stator, before connecting to the neutral sender switch next to it.
Can anyone point me in the direction of a basic wiring diagram for a 1976 Honda TL 125se engine. I have renewed everything excepts the generator. I made detailed records and took photos, but I have no spark, so something is amiss. I need a diagram that does not include the battery, lights and horn etc. Thanks in anticipation
I need a black plastic universal rear fender/mudguard for a Honda TL 125 in a Sammy Miller frame.. I bought a Gonelli from Fecked, but they are short - sort of 3/4 length. I bought a second and tried joining them together, but the profile was wrong and it looked rubbish. They sell white and silver, and other colours are available, but apparently not black. I don't want to paint or use alloy ones. Any ideas?
I am in the process of completely rebuilding a 1976 Honda TL 125se. The basic design of the motor is similar/exactly the same in many respects to the Honda TLR. There is a rubber oil seal in the oil way of the barrel. The TL shares this same part. Anyone know what it does? Here is a link to the part:
You see a lot of TY 175/250s at trials meetings here in England, competing at Novice and Clubman level against modern bikes and sometimes winning. I had a silver engined Beamish 250 for a few years . This was a Suzuki RL 250 motor, (the same motor as in your picture) in a chrome plated Beamish frame, which was apparently a big improvement on the Suzuki RL 250, but it was still a poor trials bike. OK as a green laner though. Reliable, and robust, with electronic ignition too. I'd go with the Suzuki. The Beamish owners club is also a good place for Suzuki RL owners too.
First check that it is not the fork seals that are weeping.
Then you may need to re-soften your copper washer for it to seal properly. Remove the drain screw from the bike. Hang the copper washer on a piece of wire. Use a blowlamp to heat it up to cherry red. Allow it to cool down naturally. Ensure that the underside of the screw and the mating surface are clean and not scratched. Refit bolt and washer. Refill fork oil.
Is their a way to prevent the forks from getting smashed in?
It's not the forks that get smashed in. The fork yokes (the things that hold the forks to the frame) actually bump against the frame when they are on full lock (turned left or right) as far as you can. The plastic bump stop actually moves out of the way when the knife-edge like fork yokes bump against it and allows them to "chop/cut through the FRAME down tubes. I made some frame protectors out of electric conduit tubing, but after a while it would cut through them.
At a trial a couple of years ago I recognised a 2013 rear tanker (yellow frame, with a non-removable silencer tip) that had a blue frame. Chatting to the owner revealed that the yokes had broken the frame and Sherco had GIVEN them a new frame (2015), but they had to fit it themselves. The same issue remained.
The 2013 Sherco is an excellent bike. More nimble and narrower than it's contemporaries. but like all the other makes it does have it's issues.
1. The fork yokes can/will hit against the frame downtubes. Inspect this area very carefully to check that this has not collapsed the tube/s and seriously compromised that area. If they have then walk away.
2. Replace all the plastic fuel pipe. because it WILL harden and perish after a year or so. The fuel pump can then suck in air and cause you all sorts of weird and wonderful issues. Replace it all - about two thirds of a metre will be needed.
I had a 2014 125. After about 2 years of riding every weekend in competitions and the occasional practice for an hour or so, the top end was a bit rattly, although it still went well. The bore looked fine and the piston skirt had a bit of rubbing/scuffing. I was advised to change the piston, piston rings. wrist pin and little end bearing. After dismantling it I discovered that the little end bearing was obviously very loose. The wrist pin had wear that you couldn't see but you could feel. Apparently the wrist pin hole through the piston becomes slightly elongated after hundreds of hours of use. This wear leaves a slight gap, which produces more rattle as the bits wear and the gaps grow. When I assembled the new bits and compared them to the old, the wear was very apparent.
The new piston and associated bits made the motor much less rattly.
I bought the bits online from Splatshop.
PS: I used the same sized piston and the bore was unmarked, with no ridges.
In the process of rebuilding a Sammy Miller Honda Highboy 150cc twinshock. I need to make a plate to lower the footpegs, 2" down and perhaps 1" back. It will either be welded or bolted to the existing plate. It will be 1/4" or 5mm steel.. Should I use mild steel, bdms, stainless (chromed frame) or something else? Anyone know what the original steel plate is?
The poofs down at Taunton cancelled their trial for this week {15/3/20) because of VD, but Stroud are made of sterner stuff and theirs is going ahead today.
Well thanks for getting back to me lads, still not tackled it but just didn't know if that was a screw head that comes out the filter because it didn't seem to turn or what but thankyou!
It is a screw, about 30mm long, with a knurled head. Tricky to get out but great fun to put back in!
Mono shock location
in General Trials Talk
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Jotagas