keychange

No - I have ordered a stack of parts and I am waiting on these to arrive. Then the fun begins

Picked up a gun at Supercheap complete with sockets for $60 ...now I just need something to practice on

Anyone know off hand the size of the front fork drain plug - I need to order gasket/washer and don't want to pull the old one off until I have replacements in hand as it may take a week to get the part.

Now I just have to remember: The pistons connected to the ... conrod The conrods connected to the ....big end The big ends connected to the ...crank shaft Now hear the word of the Lord. ummm what's the next verse?

Yes I do understand the need to use a torque wrench.and to use it properly.

It's not so much the 2 foot bar - it is holding the flywheel (or clutch) while trying to manipulate the bar. I made a jig for my Cota as the flywheel has some threaded holes but the bolts don't last long before they are bent. On the honda there is nothing but a smooth flywheel so very difficult to hold secure. The guy with the wrench just held the flywheel in his left hand the bolt came free in two seconds. Yes I have a torque wrench and understand the importance of torqueing critical components - I also have some syndrome that causes my hands to lock up on repetitive actions like doing up a screw or peeling potatoes (no kidding) so the thought of a ratchet wrench is very appealing. I have to go to the local large town on Monday and I will have a look around at what is on offer and thanks Ross I will check out Supercheap - BTW how did your ride go last weekend

My Cota 247T is a 77 model with 78 seat and tank but I do have all the original stuff including lights and speedo and even original plastic tool wrap

Not so easy when you have split the cases and you have 5 lasagne trays full of parts. .... disposable aluminium lasagne trays are great temporary parts storage ..but 5 take up a lot of bench space

Looking at a cheap kit includes impact, ratchet and die grinder ..... the ratchet driver would be ok for tightening most bolts without buggering things wouldn't it?

Impact socket - Is that to avoid over-tightening? Is over-tightening an issue with these things?

I've got a compressor and most every other tool so why not - this is a Chicago brand and so cheap $89 - for what I need though hard to say no http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Chicago-Pneumatic-Air-1-2-Impact-Wrench-/320701897778?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aab529c32#ht_2817wt_903

I was trying to remove a flywheel on my TLR the other day and I could not get it to budge - even with a 2 foot extension. I took it to local workshop and the old guy ie: 8 years older than me - stuck an impact wrench on it with just his hand holding the flywheel and off it came. My immediate reaction was " I have to have one " ... what are people's thoughts on this ie: will I get use out of this? Cheers Andrew

Yep that looks like pretty much the same stuff - I'd hate to do an ATV but you can get a great result on a mud guard quite quickly. It's just a case of waiting for each coat to dry. The result is quite long lasting and easy to freshen up and there is plenty of the liquid left to do it all several times over.

So kickstart, bearings piston and barrel all look ok. I will replace the valve stem seals and the cam chain, sprocket and tensioner - any suggestions as to what else I should replace as a routine job while I have the cases apart. PowerSportsPlus USA appear to have all that I need at reasonable prices does anyone have any experiences with them.

Don't know if you can get this stuff in UK but I can vouch it works great http://www.bikebiz.com.au/products/Plastic-Reconditioning-Kit.html This is my TLR which had had a very hard previous life

Yes I do - although when I first got the bike 18 months ago it was a horrible mess of corrosion and rat eaten remnants (see below) so I completely disassembled. On reassembly I left off all the street gear and I overlooked the stop arm. So for first test ride the kick start was slamming into the footrest and I guess it is possible the case got cracked then and it has taken this long to break. However there were some signs on an earlier oil change some very small aluminium filings in the bottom of the oil pan. But it coincided with gear selector issues that I fixed and I thought they were related.

Hi I have a TLR 200 that I think is a 1982 model - engine number is MD09E-1005889 - that is the only identifying number I can find on the bike. I need to replace the cam chain however the parts manual I have says that the TLR200D uses a different part number to the 200E - are they backwards compatible coz I don't know which model I have and 2 hours on google has taught me nothing

Finally have the engine split and sure enough here is the damage - but why did it happen, it looks like the kick start catch on the ratchet has slipped past the stopper bolt and snapped of that part of the casing - I welcome other suggestions. Good news is that on superficial inspection apart from the lump of casing missing there is no other damage . The casing looks sound, there appears no damage to gears etc . Barrel and piston look fine great is the barrel in this coated? If not it does need a hone. The bearing are all nice and firm although I have not had a chance to check all of the clearances - if ok I will reassemble and replace cam chain and adjusters - is there anything else I should do will I have it apart?

piston and barrel look like new - a bit of carbon on top to be expected but the rest looks new - gudgeon and big end are good - no slop at all. So it has to be gear box and I can't get the flywheel off

I have the flywheel cover off an no sign of violence - but I can't shift the cylinder head bolt - it is only a 10mm head and have tried ring spanner and impact driver - heated the area around the bolt and it just will not move. ..... update used socket head on impact driver and belted the bugger till it gave up

It would fit through the oil hole - but no kids - the cases are full of shrapnel so It something inside - the clutch area is intact and the cam area is fine - I am gradually dismantling as time permits

I repeat - yes I did remove the oil pump cover

Well clutch area looks fine - no sign of any damage or wear and so the motor is now on the bench. I guess I have to split the cases, funny after 40 years and lost count how many bikes, I have never had to split the cases before .... this might take a while.

Yes I removed the oil trap cover.

I was riding my TLR 200 over a practice stage today for about an hour and everything was running fine as normal - although at the beginning of my ride the clutch felt to be slightly slipping and so I backed off the cable adjustment and all was good. Eventually I stopped for a rest - maybe 10 minutes and when I went back she started first kick as usual but a terrible rattle coming from the clutch side - sounding like around the starter area but not sure. I immediately switched off and trailered the bike home and removed the clutch cover - this is what I found however I can't see where the problems is. The engine turns over smoothly by hand - can anyone throw me an idea where to begin. Metal pieces are non-ferrous.