deminimis

TT, I just ordered the only fork spring in stock from The Splat Shop. Dims are: 365mm long by 32mm outer diameter. Spring rate 0.9kg/mm (8.8N/mm). Cannonracecraft can build you one, but it will cost more than the approx $80 shipped (to the US) Splat Shop price (Cannonracecraft quoted me $175 for two (didn't understand I only needed one)). I am working on dims for the shock and will likely have Cannon build that. If anyone has the factory dims on the shock spring (2008), please chime in. I assume it's a progressive spring as the shock valving is progressive. I'm guessing the rear shock needs to be in the 80N/mm range, but any info would be greatly appreciated.

I generally run 60:1 in my Rev3 and it seems happy. When is very dusty/fine sand conditions, I think it's a good idea to bump up the oil a bit. Ran 40-50:1 last week in Moab (very fine blowing sand) with no ill effects.

Thanks Brian.

Ditto! '08 Rev3 270 and 220 pounds, but looking for the same info. Thanks.

Did you source your springs yet??

Also make sure your master link clip isn't making contact anywhere. Makes a nice tick sound. Yup, I did that once.

Thanks. Nope, didn't measure volume. I haven't read about leaving the spring in either, it's just the image in the service manual showed the measurement of 120mm, but the image also showed the spring in place, which was a little concerning. Perhaps the spring in the image was to indicate it was the compression side. Who knows. That manual -Geeszch. Anyway, thanks for the reply and I'm not going to fret about it as looks like I measured correctly. Thanks again. Well I take that back, actually, here's the language from the manual: Left shaft To replace the oil, proceed as follows: 1) Remove the front wheel 2) Remove the handlebar (see pag. 65) 3) Unloose the shaft lock the screws A 4) Unscrew slider plug 5) Remove the spring and totally empty the oil 6) Reset the spring and fill with oil (OJ01 ) up to the level indicated in figure Humm, well, I'm not going to worry about it. Seems to work correctly.

This has been covered, but there is some conflicting info around regarding the oil height on the compression side of things. My service manual has an image clearly showing the spring in the fork tube when measuring the air gap at 120mm ( I chose to use the air gap method instead of measuring volume). However, I've read more than once that to get the accurate measurement, it needs to be done without the spring in fork tube. Did mine last night without the spring, and it feels about right (in the shop, haven't ridden it yet). So, I guess I'm just looking to clarify that the 120mm measurement is, in fact, done without the spring in place, right? 2008 Rev3 270. Thanks!

They are trash. Pretty big gap on them, so they are not doing anything. Will probably try some Seal Savers. Thanks.

I've ordered up some 38x50x8 fork seals, but they do not come with dust wipers. Dust wipers by Paioli (at least in the states) are extremely expensive (and, frankly, pretty crappy as compared to other wipers, at least the ones i have). So, wondering if anyone has figured out a good cross reference for the dust wipers that fit from other, non-trail bikes (i.e. Honda, etc.)? Thanks!

Got it! Banjo washers were not up to snuff. I have a clutch again.

Oh crap. Perhaps I did this wrong. Hopefully someone here has installed a Grimaca clutch master cylinder seal kit and can help. When I installed the new kit, I did it the same way I found it. Was looking at a PDF file just now that seems to suggest the way I did it is wrong. Specifically, I'm talking about the small cup like seal towards the end of the piston (not the "O" ring): Does the open (cup part) go on so its facing the hose (to the right) or to the left? Hope that makes sense. I have it so the cup (or perhaps better called the larger flared end) is facing the hose end instead of facing to the left (clutch lever plunger end). That makes the most sense (would apply pressure when needed and allow fluid to blow by from the res (when needed) when the clutch lever is released. Again, the pdf image seems to suggest otherwise, so any words of comfort or solace would be appreciated. Thanks.

Went and picked up a big horse-sized syringe and some better fitting clear tubing this afternoon. Thanks!

Actually, had enough air in it to fill a balloon. Got home too late to accomplish anything last night. Will start over and bench bleed the MC and go from there. Thanks! Suppose I should have mentioned this is the Gremica mc ('05-on).

Will give that a shot tonight! Thanks!!

I've bled this and bled that but I'll be damned if I can bleed this Rev3 clutch. Even followed the instructions (which didn't suggest anything out of the ordinary). So, is there a trick to this? Thanks.

Thanks for the replies. Already had the handlebar end on it, but missed it with my foot more times than not. Just ended up ordering an aftermarket shifter and a host of other spares. Ended up not being a big issue as the riding area we were at was too wet, muddy and rutted up from a XC race to bring out the Beta much. Instead spent the weekend trying to climb stuff with my XC-F. I really need to install a X-11 on that KTM!! Thanks again.

Great link!!

Totalshell, thanks for the offer and I appreciate it very much. I do have a source for little trick bits that arrive approx 10 days after I order, but trying to figure out something for today. This post was a long shot, so I'll probably order the replacement lever today and keep embarrassing myself with missed shifts this weekend. Thanks again!!

Hi All, I need to get a shift lever tip for my Rev3 but don't have time to wait for shipping from Beta (I'm in the States). Does anyone know of dirt bike with a similar shift lever tip setup? My lever is fine, just need the missing tip. Its nothing like the one on my KTM and its quite different from the ones on the Honda bikes I've had as well, so I'm guessing I'm out of luck. Anyway, thought I'd ask just in case. Thanks!!

I broke my wrist through the joint snowboarding some 20 years ago. No problems since, until I bought a trials bike. All kinds of problems now. Here are a couple of simple exercises that I've just started doing and they seem to help: 1st Wrist Flexion exercise- Sit at a desk, stand by a countertop, or position yourself next to a flat surface. With your palm-side up and your wrist flat, press your fingertips against the under-side of the flat surface. Keep your fingers straight and flat so the focus is on the wrist. Press firmly against the surface. Hold for 10-20 seconds. 2nd Wrist Flexion exercise- Similar to the 1st exercise, find a flat surface where you can press on its under-side, like your desk, a countertop or a table. Instead of pressing your fingertips, you will press with the heels of your hands. Initiate the pressing from your palms, keeping your wrists straight or slightly-flexed. Again, hold for 10-20 seconds. You should feel this in your forearms more than the 1st exercise.

With a face like mine, I can't afford any more damage to the mug. I'm just at the starting stages of getting into trials, so disregard my comments if you wish. However, as a former white water kayaker, I always wore a full face kayaking helmet. Light weight, great visibility and they can take some serious knocks. Just throwing this out there as a possible option: