Ive got one in the shed had a little peak and airvents with movable flaps to cover then up in winter. Im riding tomorrow but will try to remember to take some pic on my return.
Yes I thought it should be there but theres nothing and no remains of rivvit holes etc. My engine number says it is a MH349 but if I decide I want to road reg it I will be a bit stumped.
Thanks anyway.
Nick
Punch the engine number onto the head stock with a star at the start and the end and hope the thing is not pinched.
Thanks for the info on the rims and hubs, that's good news! I can now get them refurbed and get some new tyres on the bike!
I was initially planning on doing the rims myself, as I wanted to learn how to lace wheels, but I don't have access to a jig to true them, so I think I'll send them off. Anyone know of any wheel refurb places? I don't think they need to be chromed, on the link above to an original 348, they look like they're just polished.
Thanks
Ben
I would be wary of the rims with the heat they have been subjected to the ally will have softened and the rims are realy to be considered scrap in my opinion. The throttle whold have been a straight pull amal thingy and as for the amal levers buy them they dont beak like cheepo atermrket stuff I have had my MH 25 years and its still on the origional levers.
The wheels are MH349 items the rear is the same apart from the colour of the rim but the early 348 hubs had a tendency to break off bearing boss behind the brake shoes. The front rim has a larger hub and better brake as a result, unless you are realy set on the origional hub keep it, but if you want an origional with a gold rim I have one with all the brake plate for a swap.
The kick starter you have is off a cota 200 and if in good nick worth a few quid as they strip the splines and are no longer available unlike the 348/9 on which is available from millers or inmotion.
Hi there, just wondering where the frame number is on your MH as I have an identical bike and cannot find an number anywhere on mine.
Much appreciated.
Nick.
The number is on the headstock as well as a VIN plate rivited onto the headstock with the model number and serial number on it. Also the engine number should be the same as the frame number, my bike had had its frame number stamped onto the frame after it was painted when new which suggests Montesa fitted the engine in the factory and then numbered the frame to match. I had this bike new from sandifards in 86 so its not been interfeared with.
Hello all ,can anybody tell me if montesa 242 forks are the same as montesa/honda 200 i have a 242 with bad chrome on legs they are both 35mm but are they the same lenght ??? cheers Paul
No the 242 has longer forks than a MH200 but the MH349 has the same length as the 242.
You can do so much more with a real truck. I can get three bikes comfortably into the bed of both my chevys with plenty of room inside for when we travel to events
At £1.35 a Litre of fuel thats why we dont have real trucks.........
OK youve had loads of advice so far and all of it is valid but i will now ask YOU a question that nobody else has seemed to bother with and this comes from experience not just mine but that of a lot of our club members.
What type of trials do you want to ride?? You say you are an old beginner? I assume then that like the rest of us who are a "certain age" you dont heal as quickly as you used to? your confidence and commitment may not be as a 30 year old or younger?
Yes a "modern" bike may be easier to ride but where are you going to ride it and what are the sections like that you will have to attempt?
There are more and more "Classic" clubs and "Classic" type trials where you and your twinshock, should you take that route, will have a great time with far less chance of injury than you would at a "modern" event. A lot of "modern" events offer "easy" routes but make sure that these "easy" routes are what you will enjoy riding and have not just been included so that you subsidise the modern riders. Very few "Classic" clubs will allow a modern bike to ride. So you get the modern bike for low maintenance, dont buy that arguement personally but whatever, easy to ride, dont buy into that either but also whatever, but then find you may not be able to enter the sort of event you want to ride in.
I and many others find the atmosphere at "Classic" clubs, by that i mean twinshock and Pre65, much more friendly and more enjoyable. Others may argue against that but experience tells me otherwise.
You are perhaps right not to go the Pre65 route but Trials isnt just about the bike you ride it's also about where you will ride it, what sort of sections you will encounter and who you want to ride with.
Look at the bigger picture. Dont just dismiss twinshocks, which incidentally are the only arm of the sport that is growing at the moment i wonder why ????, for the wrong reasons.
Go to a "Classic" event and then make a choice.
Incidentally i sold a really nice TY250 twinshock last Sunday to a guy who had bought a brand new Gas Gas, again advice from others low maintenance easy to ride blah blah blah, he loved the bike but hated the first two trials, modern clubs BTW, he entered and when he came to our event as a spestator to see what it was like turned to his wife and said "this is it this is what i wanted to ride". That sealed it and he bought the TY on the spot. Now he's got a nearly new Gas Gas only two trials old thats lost over 30%, if he's lucky, to get rid of. On the possitive side he's now got a twinshock that will only ever appreciate in value and he can enjoy it while it appreciates.
Think long and hard before you decide.
Your choice.
Here Here
I started trial 27 years ago and did compete for about 4-5 years then discovered women beer and cars. About 10 years ago I decided to get the old mont out of retirement and have another go.......well the local club did not realy accomodate the older bikes and I realy struggled getting to the end of the sections let alone getting a clean or even a 3. This put me right off..
Now having found a suitable club with realistic sections for the creaky old bike and rider Im back on the pegs.
Dabbers are holding a trial on the 6th of feb near Thetford look it up on their wedsite and come along have a look at the bikes and see what its all about. I just returned into the sport after a long long lay off and this club is just the job. As already mentioned many riders will give advice and let you have a go after the event.
Being in norfolk you are lucky to have a very fine twin shock club localally in the Dabbers trials club who run events for older bikes. As for a bike if TS is your bag then the choices are good with Yamaha ty 175's being the most popular with a raft of spanish stuff from monts to bults with ossas and swm's in the mix too, also the italian fantics with the 240's being considered as good as a ts gets. British bikes are rare but armstrong/ccm's do crop up.
hi i know this will be a well worn subject but i,ve seen several conflicting reports
what is the correct fuel oil ratio for a mk 1 cota 349 bearing in mind i will be using mineral oil & not the sinthetic as i have loads of it in the garage from an outboard
Also i would like to know how much air to put in the forks when i replace the oil
on a previous bike it was 8 p.s.i. which i will probly start with
cheers peter
Be carfull with outboard oil if its for larger water cooled engines(TCW1-11-111), its not suitable for air cooled engines and will damage the piston and bore. Outboard motors run much cooler than conventional 2t motors and the oil is formulated to suit, stick on E bay and get some appropriate oil. 25:1 for mineral and 32:1 for synthetic is wha the manual says for the 349. I use normal mineral castrol in mine at 25:1 ok it smokes a bit but so what it runs clean enough and thats the main thing and I want it to last another 25 years without trouble.
The black is the only wire you need to worry about tape the others up and feed the black to the coil. the stop switch simply connects to the black and if a second wire is present on the switch this goes to earth. The other cables are varoius feeds to the headlight, electric horn, tail light, stop lamp ect.
I acquired this bike some 7 years ago from a very good friend who said, get it going and its yours for your son to ride it when hes old enough to. I did but my friend was tradicly killed 6 months later in a bike accident. I ran the bike for a couple of years after that, replaced the points and plug but then its been in storage for some years and I am struggling to start it.The condensor has been checked and is ok. I dont know exactly what model it is, or the engine size. The engine number shows 29MO2718** the ** may be only scratches and not part of the serial number.
I want to restore the bike back to its original condition as I promised this to my son who is now big enough to ride it.
I want to start with some billy basics ie, plug? what do i use and what is the gapping, also dos anyone know the gapping for the points so i can try that, The model and cc would also be appreciated
Thank you!!
Andy
Hi Andy
Ita a cota 200 and is 175cc.
The first thing to check is there a spark if so and it wont start check the timing now im not 100% what it should be but 2mm btdc is a safe place to start. if the timing is way out wip the flywheel off and check the woodruff key is intact.
Google "todo trial" you may be able to download a owners handbook from that site.
I have a cota 200 I got cheep as a non runner and it was just the woodruff key.
Good bike but the kickstarter is a weak point so dont jump on it as parts are impossible to find and they can jump out of gear in steep climbs.
I have a shameful secret - nah !!! I was at a loss what to do with old gearbox oil, so I put it in an oil squirt can and apply this to the chain (top and bottom) and rub in with a toothbrush, then wipe off the excess with a rag. I've always been of the opinion that offroad the muck will cling to anything sticky on the chain.
I wip the chain off and leave it in a tub of old gear oil for a day or so leave to drain off and refit.
Well the bike is now done in readyness for a clubman trial on sunday, the clutch is sill not 100% but im hoping it will improve. I dropped the ATF and filled with a basic mineral 10/30 (I had some) as per the manual the clutch does not slip like it did on the starter but drags a little. I will take some pics and post them up tomorow.
Wife came home from shopping to find my plastics in the sink and using her hairdryer to dry out my airbox. couldnt have looked more guilty if i'd been trying on her heels.
A least you didnt have the chain in the chip fryer
Flywheel woodruff keys shear on these bikes, pull the flywheel and check its a classic Mont problem. Always buy the proper key as they a chamfered, I recently obtained a Cota 200 cheep due to the same problem. Lap the flywheel onto the crank with valve paste before refitting for a tight fit on the taper.
- nah !!! I was at a loss what to do with old gearbox oil, so I put it in an oil squirt can and apply this to the chain (top and bottom) and rub in with a toothbrush, then wipe off the excess with a rag. I've always been of the opinion that offroad the muck will cling to anything sticky on the chain.
1st trial in 32 years!
in Introduce Yourself
Posted
another born again here.....wife permitting enjoy it