You may be right there, but there must be a reason why the designer chose extra advance. I have to say I don't feel the need for a power increase - having got used to modern bikes I'm having enough difficulty keeping the old-fashioned light front end down!
The setup tips should solve any problems during a trial but you really should switch the tap off during transit, it is what it is there for after all, as the movement on a trailer or in a van can cause the floats to move slightly and let fuel through. Never mind that we used to automatically switch off at every section in the old days, we switched off every time we parked the road bike!
It is "full sized" in the terms you quote but smaller than a 250 so lighter. I recall that Brian Hutchinson always had good results in the SSDT on the small Mont. I don't know how far you will have to go but I know of a 200 Mont (same bike, bigger barrel) for sale in Scarborough (not me selling by the way).
I have seen pictures of bikes with the lower frame tubes removed but this bike has a sump plate that actually hangs down lower than the frame so I don't see how that would help. I also ride in areas with lots of rocks and things to bang on the bottom.
My reference meant work to the frame along the lines of what OTF says.
Yes, but first I need to know which parts of the frame I should be concerned about!
Sorry for not getting back to you FUF but I have been too busy to poke about on TC too deeply of late so had not seen your post. The Miller frames crack round the front downtubes just at the end of the gusset. Whether this is bad design or poor material I don't know but, despite what the sticker on the headstock says, the downtubes on my Miller frame are not made of 531. Maybe it's just the headstock that's 531, crafty marketing!
My Miller frame also has a round top tube so the one shown is probably not a Miller - as somebody said above, a Whitehawk.
If my efforts have not sorted my ignition problems this weekend then I'll be going electronic (reluctantly as the original was regarded as a good system).
There seem to be two systems on the market; Trail and Trials and Electrex World. The former advances to 25 degrees BTDC, the latter to 16 degrees BTDC.
Does anyone know how this compares to the standard set up at 1.8mm BTDC and/or have experience of the two to say how much effect the 9 degrees greater advance on the T&T one has compared to the other?
By the way the motor has been taken out to 200 but I have no idea how this has been achieved (I believe there is more than one way to do this).
Obviously take the arm out to make it easy to get at the area - probably time to grease pivots etc anyway?. Easyouts can snap leaving you an even bigger problem. Try drilling a hole down the middle then hammer in a Torx bit and use that to turn the bolt. At least if it doesn't work you can remove it and drill a bigger hole or whatever method you then choose.
I'm sure sombody did a rear disc conversion back in the day so you might find one around somewhere. Good luck with growing the roses using the rocking horse manure!
Some good advice there thanks a lot, might make tht learning curve a little easier.
So is it ok to use regular car ATF in the gearbox? I can get this from work so that would be great if it's the best thing to use. Also with the 2stroke I'll be using ipone as its what I like and trust, am I right in thinking about 80ml to 5L is about right?
But the graduations on Ipone oil bottles are not accurate in my experience - use a syringe to get accurate oil measurements.
I think you've just rediscovered why everybody went out and bought a Bultaco!
Surely jacking up the back end can only provide minor improvement, given that the wheel remains the same diameter, as the chain will start to rub on the swingarm pivot before you go very far. Time to get the hacksaw out I'm afraid?
It certainly looks Millerish but, if it is, then the bit about having been in storage must be correct as it doesn't seem to have cracked downtubes at the end of the gussets.
I had one which the original and previous owner had had sorted by Nigek Birkett and carried what sounds like the same silencer. I don't know if it was ported or just carefully jetted, but was still a 250, it had no alteration to the inlet but it found grip where other Yams didn't. I sold it just before a class for these things became common - a mistake.
to be fair i didnt see any highland 'tourists'. trials is a competative sport both against others but with yourself and sure many riders might find the sections above thier abilities but hey with almost 300 places up for grabs thiers room for everybody.
check out the pre65's issues they d used up the reserve list a fortnight before the start and even were offering rides at 9.15 friday morning , in factwere told that next year 6 of last weekends starters would have not been allowed to start at all.
the p65 comittee have a real issue that they are doing thier best to solve. every rider has thier part to play, the first being dont enter if you might not ride, dont enter on the off chance ,donty accept a reserve spot unless you can accept a ride less than 48hrs before the start, dont enter on an inappropriate bike, dont turn up on something you know to be a wrong un..
I don't think the Pre'65 necessarily mirrors the Six Days but I see even T&MX commented this week on the number of riders not bothering with the sections. If you're in a competition with yourself but not doing sections then you've lost the contest.
"Don't enter if you might not ride". I agree with you 100% but at least somebody not riding in the SSDT leaves a space for someone who has spent money preparing and turned up hoping to get his turn off the reserve list. I must ask the backmarkers if the "tourers" cause problems over the rough as well. By the way, I'm no ace, but when I rode the Scottish I made a go of it. And don't enter now because I know I couldn't justify denying a younger more competent rider the chance though I would love to do it again.
I think it was principally the weather that caused the Spaniards, always the biggest foreign contingent, to disappear many years ago (before there was such a great difference between SSDT and World stuff), with tales of aces in vans while minions did the roadwork, but happily they returned in later years. Those "World" continentals who have done the SSDT after their peak and hence not committed elsewhere seem to have enjoyed it.
It's easier to just remove the swingarm - you may as well grease the bearings for all the time it takes. One of the reasons I went for a Rev3 was a dealer's advert that the rear suspension set up could be removed and refitted in fifteen minutes. Can be done in less.
I felt that the new wheel bearings shown looked to be woefully undersized - interesting that OSSA felt this was the one characteristic of the old MAR that should be carried forward to the new model.
It's another of these "they all do that Sir" items. There's not much clearance there and production tolerances will make some bikes worse than others for this rubbing. Mine does it from time to time. I thought about thinning the thread boss but I've come to just thole it. And keeping the link the "proper" way round, ie as you found it, will help, though it is done to prevent it catching as said above.
Beta 250 Rev 3 Leaking Fuel Out Of Carb
in Beta
Posted
I usually just lie mine on its side in such circumstances - after switching off the petrol of course!