I can't remember what mine was like for marks but it would be well worth either checking the marks with your gauge or making some the same way. You then know that they arpe right and, if made properly, you can check with a strobe to save messing about another time.
Yes,you are correct,but right now the only tension that holds the the cable and jacket in place is the slide spring in the carburetor. And It really doesn't take much of a tug to pull the jacket out of its nest at either end. And yes, Its easily returned to its position, I'm just trying to avoid that WFO splatter into a tree when it gets snagged/pulled. Its a real eye opener to have your bike leap forward while you're holding the throttle closed!!
We used to tape the ends to the twistgrip body in the days of the big loop of cable as original fitment but really all that did was stop it going back in when it got pulled so not very worthwhile.
I don't think I've had a problem with snagging since we went to the modern style of twistgrip but from the sound of it your issue will only be solved by a longer cable or re-routing. No matter how you tie it, if you are going to get a snag, then it will overcome any wiring in.
Lady luck was with me twice last week. After a few months of deciding what I was going to do with my pair of Dalesmans I got stuck in. One is going to be restored to original the other is going to get developed. I had a Dalesman when a kid for schoolboy scrambling and thought it was great, in later life and now into twinshock trialling everyone I speak to says they weren't very good for trialing, engine being to peaky with no bottom end at all.
So I'm on a mission to make one work at trials.
Good luck one, a mate asked me to put some brake shoes in his Seeley, on closer inspection they are identical to the Puch moped shoes fitted to the front end (well nothing that a file and vice won't sort in thirty seconds) on further checking these are the same shoes fitted across half the Honda small bike range from C50 upwards so no shortage there.
Good luck two, I was trying to find a 9 tooth sprocket for the front and rang all the suppliers to no avail then typed 9 tooth sprocket into ebay and the first pic it showed looked exactly like the one I needed 12 spline shaft and 428 size, they wanted
A five - utterly absurd. It harks back to the day when some observers felt you had to take a straight line between sets of markers (there never was anything in the rules to suggest this). I fell foul of something similar a couple of years ago when my line between two sets of "my" cards took me through the "other route" cards. I was given a five as "your route is the red route, not the blue one". I didn't miss any of mine and the route (I was a bit out of control) was actually harder than the intended one.
To contrast with that, I rode a two day this year where the easy and hard routes had different colour flags but some sections had every set of flags on the easy route in place (ie if you were supposed to use the hard route at that point there was a set of easy flags matching the hard ones). At other sections you were just supposed to know that you were meant to divert from the easy route and go through a set of "hard" flags at some points. Cost me two fives but I would still have thought it a poor do even if it hadn't. They can't have been that hard up for flags.
And yes I have been and do get involved in laying out events so it's not just a moan from an unappreciative competitor.
Good stuff, and I'm prompted to ask does anybody else mourn the passing of body lean which never seems to be evident in modern trials in the way that it was used back in the day - as in proper hang off the bike stuff.
If you could spare 2 min to fill in this short survey (10 quick questions) it would really help me with my uni project!
Thanks in advance!
I don't know how much response you have had but suspect that many, like me, would be more prepared to respond if we were afforded the basic courtesy of knowing some of the background to this eg what the project is, what the objectives are etc, perhaps even which Uni is involved and a bit more about you yourself as a student. Particularly given that you have obviously joined TC purely for the purpose of this survey.
i have a 2010 gasser 300 and have snapped my brake lever. ive bought some replacement levers which are ok but feel a very different shape compared to the standard lever on the clutch side (feel more square than rounded across where the finger pulls the lever). ive seen the apico levers are available but was wondering is this the same shape as the original one that came on the bike or are they slightly different in shape like the replacement levers ive bought? as i prefer the original levers to my aftermarket replacement ones.
For 10 years ive had Irc but guess times up. On a further note why can I buy loads of different rubbered crosser tyres at 40 quid yet X11 a 30year old tyre n tred cost
Waaaaaay too harsh IMO, I'd take a '1' for stopping but if trials go '5' for stopping that'd be the end for me and probably a lot of younger riders I know.
It's not a case of going that way - the rule has existed for many decades.
Use a small wire brush to clean out the internal threads of the flywheel hub, blow out with compressed air and grease the threads on the puller.
Jon
There seem to be some duff pullers around just now. I bought one that would not go in more than half a thread. The old one (lost) and another borrowed one fit perfectly.
I assisted someone who had one of the early four stroke Betas. He had assumed the "start" button was the choke so did not realise that the first two days of the bike's life had been spent with the choke on.
Well, Dof2, we went to 50:1 because that is what Fantic told us to use and there are still bikes from that era running on the original motors. A modern trials bike simply would not run properly at the 25/30:1 level.
I've run 70:1 on my 2003 Beta since I got it at a year old and nothing has worn yet, despite taking a hammering across the moors. I agree about accurate measuring though but, rather than use grossly over rich a mixture in case the measure was wrong, I prefer to use a syringe to get it accurate to start with.
I checked the measuring lines on a bottle of Ipone and they were well out which would lead to an under provision of lubrication so beware all.
The benefits you describe from using "more" oil are indeed valid and can be measured on a dyno but have to be seen in context and bear relevance to racing motors rather than the use to which a trials motor is put.
If you want your engine to run clean but wear faster go for a lean ratio of 50:1 upwards
If you want more power and less engine wear go for a leaner ratio between 25: and 32:1
Choose a fully synthetic or semi synthetic oil that meets JASO FC specification and never go leaner than oil or bike manufactuer recommends.
Cheers
Are you serious? It's 30 odd years since we went to 50:1 with oils inferior to those available today. 32:1 is more than twice the manufacturer's recommendation of 70:1 of semi-synthetic. I can't see how you'd get more power from a motor burning so much surplus oil. It's not a 15,000 rpm racing motor after all.
Given that the new models of each are bigger than the old, into which two bikes fit easily enough, it comes down to other factors. What's the problem with a bike fitting in diagonally?
As you don't seem to use a van for other purposes ("empty") then better to go for the car version (I gather insurance might be cheaper)as you get a very handy tailgate to shelter under! There's actually more room for bikes in the car version anyway.
My comments come from years of using a Berlingo Multispace for carting trials bikes and small road bikes about. I can even get two mountain bikes and a tandem in at the same time with no dismantling, oh alright then 10 seconds to remove the front wheel of the tandem.
If you discount the Fiat factor then the Doblo seems to be just the job.
I seem to recall that the 325 had a small hole drilled near the exhaust port, possibly to reduce compression for starting, the pressure when running effectively closing the hole.
I remember Motorcycle Mechanics, of all publications, tested the beast and the published torque curve was incredible. Max torque seemed to be not much above tickover and tailed off from there. They were certainly a real "bottom end" bike which is probably why some favoured them for the then current style of riding an outfit.
Folks is getting soft these days. I recall the late Willie Dalling riding a National the day after having experienced the minor inconvenience of having to get his bike fished out a flooded shaft or some such after having to swim for "shore" in the Scott. There was another Scott competitor in the same event.
TY250 mono timing marks
in Yamaha
Posted
I can't remember what mine was like for marks but it would be well worth either checking the marks with your gauge or making some the same way. You then know that they arpe right and, if made properly, you can check with a strobe to save messing about another time.