insultaco

Sids Wheels, he'll post out to you. http://www.misterwhat.co.uk/company/2381851-sids-wheels-stafford

Hello all My problem repeated (and has been a constant problem since my original purchase), even with the new wear sleeve, the bike chewed the new O ring up and it started with all the symptoms of blown seals again. I stripped it down again (now able to do blind fold) and started re-assembly. While I was doing this, I noticed that the gaskets on the inside of the crank seal baskets were well used, so I contacted BultacoUK for a new pair. The bike had arrived with me 15 months ago as a none starter and no matter what I replaced, renovated, twiddled or buggered about with, I kept having this same old problem with knackered seals and the stuck wear sleeve described earlier in this thread. When I got the bike it had gaskets on the left and the right beneath the crank seal retainers and also had the two sets of O rings left and right. When I ordered the full gasket set I got new everything I needed for the complete engine with a couple of extra bits, as normal when you buy generic gasket kits and so on I went with the re-build and re-re-build and re-re-re-build The guys at Bultacouk are very knowledgable (like many of you people reading this I have to also state) and when I asked for the new gaskets described above as a one off order, they quite rightly explained that my model didn't have any! I THINK this is what has been my problem all along, I've been repeating the same mistake made by previous owner(s) who have twice sold it on as a none runner. The gap of around 1/4-1/2mm created by the gasket on the right hand side where the sleeve sits has been preventing a full seal when the wear sleeve is compressed around the inner O ring. I think the hot gasses from the crank bearings have been getting in to the O ring therefore welding it on to the crank with the melted rubber and this has been causing the constant blown seals and stuck wear sleeve. Time will tell, but this is a lesson on reading things like the manuals carefully and not taking anything you find for granted! If this is what my problem has been all along, then they have been a very expensive set of gaskets that I shouldn't have had on in the first place! Cheers Mick

Im with Jon V8, my lads TY80 pulls me (5'7"/90kg (190lbs(ish)) around with no problem and is sharp on the throttle. Standard timing, but on electronic ignition. The bikes been well used, but does have new piston and rings on used barrel and engine. Timimg and/or jetting has to be favorite from what I know. I've got the haynes manual if you need the numbers for standard jets, timing etc, send me a PM. Good luck! Mick

I'm looking at one of these, coupled to my existing pull jig should do the job,

I think the O ring must have been put on the outside of the wear sleeve by my mate who fitted them last time. Or they have migrated from inside the sleeve to the outside. Either way, I think they are the glue that is holding it together.

Hi and thanks for the replies! I've got gear pullers, but the inside of the bobbin (wear sleave..) has a rounded flange on the outer rim, meaning the pullers have nothing to snag, they just ride over the flange and pop off! I've tried applying some small heat and also pulling it with soft face grips, but it really is stuck fast and I don't want to over do the heating in case of really screwing it up. Has the wear sleeve got a smooth internal bore or is in a fixed rotation? Are there wear sleeves available anywhere? I think this may be the route cause of it eating crank seals. Thanks again Mick

Hi I have a M159 Bultaco 350 and have consulted both Haynes and Clymer manuals Please can anybody give me a tip for removing the following bobbin that has attached itself to the crank, presumably with the O ring that appears to have died inside it? This bobbin is not mentioned anywhere, but I assume is common as the steps in the crank at this end appear common to more than the 159. Also, please confirm: 1. Remove bobbin 2. Replace O ring (about an inch in diameter) 3. Replace seals in carrier 4. Replace bobbin 5. Replace weight and re-assemble the rest of it etc.. It's just No 1. I can't find any reference to and am struggling to remove! Cheers Mick

Hi I purchased the Electrex system for my Sherpa M159, it failed at the first meeting Electrex did not respond either to my e-mail or my phone calls until I got REALLY stroppy with them . Electrex do not understand customer service at any level and will insist they have never had any problems in the past, which is a lie when all you have to do is read this thread and many others. I personally know of at least two other people in my area alone who have had problems with them and their systems. Once they accepted to take the system back (at my expense!!!) they returned it TWO WEEKS LATER claiming there was nothing wrong with it. I fitted the system back on with the original plug etc and it started 3rd kick. Its a miracle! They gave no apology and have never acknowledged the inconvenience or costs incurred by me. The instructions are vague and confusing and make you question what you thought you knew, then they don't respond to your questions seeking qualification. I will never buy an electrex system again. I just purchased a Powerdynamo system from Germany for my lads TY80B and it was very simple to fit and the instructions were very clear even with the odd unusual translation. Avoid electrex, there are other systems out there that do not get the feedback Electrex do on this and other forums, so why take the chance of being messed about. The other systems are reportedly better, simpler and easier with some genuine service behind them (I've used BultacoUK many times and fitted a Powerdynamo system as above) This is my humble view anyway! Mick

Hi I just purchased a new electronic ignition system from Powerdynamo.biz it has just been made available on the market and I purchased the first one they made. It comes with everything from the stator plate to the fly wheel in the kit. I fitted it in around 30 mins, you need to have a TDC tool and a gear puller (the original puller is different), but apart from that it really was VERY simple to fit. You can have it with or without the lighting kit for around

Sorted!!!! Thankyou all, it was me being a dumb t@#t. I'd taken the main jet and needle from the original and forgotten to pop out the needle jet. As soon as this was swapped over it started and ran like a proper motorbike, although I had to sort out the snagged throttle cable as well (which it had ran with all weekend and was apparently compensating for the jetting.. ), it was a wonder it ran at all. It needs a good blow out down the lane to clear the cobwebs and a final little fiddle with the tickover and mixture screw and it will be as good as I need it to be and better than I can ever expect to master.

Woody is right from my (very) limited experience, the Electrex system on mine has not needed touching to be fair, i just followed the instructions and when strobed it was bang on where it needed to be, but the 'mare of working out degrees v's BTDC is not something I like spending my days getting my head around. I believe the BultacoUK option is the real "plug and play" solution between the two. From what I've seen/heard/learnt over the past week, the BultacoUK option is the one I'd go for if I were doing it again, as it was I saved less than

Gentlemen, once again your help is in-valuable and has givn me much to consider. I'm going to check the cut-away to check it's the same as original and also put the original needle jet in the new carb, because I think this may be the one that came with it from Spain. The needle is now the original, but I've had both on using 2nd notch from bottom and 3rd from bottom (no improvement). If that fails, then I'm going to try every notch on the needle to see if that works. The float height is bang on standard. The ignition is a brand new Electrex and the timing is strobed to 2.9mm BTDC which is mid-point of what this Forum and BultacUK state as correct. The intake has a high flow filter with new filter oil applied as per the bottle and was also my first thought, but according to BultacoUK it should not make that much difference to the standard high flow filter, it just saves the air box. If all else fails I'm going to drill out the original pilot and get it richer if it kills me. It's just a bit too fluttery at the bottom end at the moment and its not what I need when i'm mid wobble anyway Its the last little frustration on getting my project singing again after being purchased as a none starter in December. It had previously stood for at least 3 years (more probably). Anyway, its still a lot easier to get around on than the Greeves TFS I've had on loan for the past 15 months. I'll report back with the final solution. Thanks again Mick

Thanks Woody. Another problem resolved by the good people of Trials central. Mick

Im not sure what they have, they are quiet, so I haven't gone near them. As far as i know they are standard, but given the self tapper/bolt scenario, I have no real idea. Mick