neo

It was the main bearing on the flywheel (left) side. But not the rollers. Its seems that the sand worked it's way between the crank shaft the the inner cylinder of the bearing. Fortunately the shaft must be harder then the bearing and sustained minimal damage. But the bearing was buffered back to what looked like a bronze/cooper layer of it's metal. And it could slide on and off the shaft with ease.....While the replacement bearing was as tight as ducks a..e. The bearing seal on the other side was also in bad condition. And I suspect it was letting small amounts of gearbox oil into the crank case area. Many thanks to everyone for all their help. I was just thinking about this today.....seems like the only job I haven't done on a Sherco yet is de-coke the exhaust system....so what do think is coming next Best of balance. Neo

Thanks Cope, Yes she sounds creamy smooth. ...can't wait to try her on the rocks this afternoon. Best of balance. Neo

Hi All, Got the 125 back on the dirt last night. She started second kick and a she's purring like a kitten. But I kept the revs real low while I plodded around on the grass. I was just wondering if I need to be taking it easy for the first few hours/days???....What's the best way to run this engine in...if at all? Best of balance. Neo

Ok...I think ...but just to confirm, we are talking about the six 5mm bolts that hold the crank casings areas together, behind the flywheel...right? Best of balance. Neo

Hi Cope, Is this correct..."Seventy Two Foot Pounds"?... I'm up to about 15-20 ft/lb and it feels far too tight to me....and it's making really nervous Best of balance. Neo

Hi All, How much should I tighten the...Case bolts and Main drive pinion nut? Best of balance. Neo

Not quite what you suspect but might help with the process of eliminiation...CLICK Also, I'm sure you can get MC kits....just be sure that the cylinder inside MC is spotless. Best of balance. Neo

Hi Ham2, You are correct, they are the same. Someone previously mentioned that they had fitted the seals after the shafts went through and I thought this was a good idea. I did this on all the seals. Because I thought there was less chance of a heavy shaft cutting/damaging a delicate seal edge that way and I still stand but that idea. It works quite well. Although you do need to use a long reach socket on the Flywheel side. After taping the the shafts I greased the seals inside and out. The seal was even going in "fair and square" before it tore....just my luck I suppose Best of balance. Neo

Bugger, bugger, bugger (forgive my Aussie slag! ).... I got the parts...Put the two sides back together again...Fitted all the seals but when I got to pressing in the last one (the Viton Main bearing seal) it tore on the outside edge of the seal on a sharp edge...I hadn't noticed before . Had to split the case again to get the seal out and that's costing me another week before I can get a new seal and reassemble it all again So the reconstructive surgery will resume next weekend Best of balance. Neo

Hi RuffRider, I'd still suspect a slow leak if I where you.....probably the caliper. But check out this GasGas video it might help. Also before doing this remove the pads and clean the caliper pistons and seals up with something that wont eat up the seals (soap and water or Lanilin spray and an old toothbrush). Then push the pistons flat into the cliper. And wedge something big and tough (block of wood) in there to keep the pistons held right back while you work. Keep the caliper held as high above the master cylinder as possible. Let us know how you get on. Best of balance. Neo

Hi Cope, The big and small's are as tight as a ducks ar**....I can't fault them I have checked ring gap but not the piston gap. But I have measured the diameter of the piston at 0.01mm less than stated on the top of the piston. Also the piston is in great condition. Hard to describe but the sides of the piston have a patten in the metal you can see and feel (like a fine file) and at no point has this pattern worn smooth. I addition to this I don't see the piston, or the small end being a big job to do...should I need to at a later time. Sherco parts have still not arrived...but the new piston rings should be in that parcel. One of the reasons I'm taking my time is because if I wait a while I might be able to change the Frame over at the same time. I'm having my old 250 frame fixed by a "master welder"... I recently counted 7 places where the old 125 frame has been poorly welded by the previous owner. So it would be nice to get that old frame replaced now. Best of balance. Neo

Hmmm...Cope you certainly know how to pour cold water on someone's enthusiasm In my thread "Strange Rattle" I said..."I removed the flywheel and noticed a small amount of side-way play on the crank shaft"....and this play was not present on the right side. I also said that I was ordering Sherco parts last Friday. Which means I might have them by tomorrow....So wishing for the best....that noise won't go away unit I put the engine back together and then back in the frame....which might be for another couple of weeks. Please forgive me if I've done something wrong and caused some level of irritation...in some way Best of balance. Neo

Hi Ham, Let me give you a technical tip....I learnt on Wednesday .... You can spot a Viton seal with ease. Because the seal type (materials they're made from) are colour coded. So in Aus at least Viton seals are light brown and "10 a penny" The bearing shop I went to knew a lot about motor bike engines as they supplied all the motorbike shops in the northern Sydney coast. But my area/situation may not be like other areas....So Stork955's advise to buy from Sherco is still valid and valued. Anyway engine assembly won't be till next weekend (other parts take a few days)...a better use of my time than sitting around eating Easter eggs. ...But until that time I best not count my chicken before they hatch Best of balance. Neo

You know Cope...I love this stuff For me it's a challenge. I not only love battling past documented manufactures bull***t I also like to find a way of doing it better. Even if I can't prove it's better in the long run By using the new Nachi Quest bearing I believe I'm doing it better. And by taking the advice of all you guys who have done it and seen before I believe I'm doing it better. Of course the proof is always in the long term...but at least I did my best while I had the opportunity and I feel like I've learnt something of value. Now on the question of mental anguish..... To purchase two bearings and 6 seal plus two cir clips took 2 five minute drives and an educational chat with the people at the bearing shop. To buy the rest of the parts from Sherco (who are 400Klms from me) has taken a price request email on Wed night, a chase-up phone call on Thursday. An other chase-up phone call on Friday. Another phone call to clarify part numbers. An email to order the parts and another phone call to confirm my credit card details. So which one of these two transactions do you think caused the most anguish? And yes the left side main (roller bearing) was definitely worn. By the why here are my summary points of what I have learnt from all this... If testing for Crankshaft float. Roller cadge bearings will float a lot further than ball cadge bearings....although you may not know which ones you have All seals are readily available from the bearing shop...there's nothing super special about any of them. 80, 125 and 200 have 25mm 6205 bearing. Where as 250 and 290 have 30mm bearings 6206. All new main bearings are ball cadge and rubber sealed on both sides. From a maintenance point of view. The way a Shecro engine is designed is awesome. With the most trouble prone parts easily accessible under the side cover. Best of balance. Neo

False alarm They are sealed on both sides after all. Best of balance. Neo

Now I'm really worried ....particularly after buying the bearings...... Just been browsing the RYP forum and came across this post It says mains are only sealed on one side but the "2R" of the Sherco parts book description indicates sealed both sides and "sealed on one side" is in contrast to what Ryan Young told Resto.....So which type is it? Best of balance. Neo

Hi All, There are a couple of Scores on the left side Crank shaft (that goes in to the magneto). I told it not too serious and easily fixed with a product like Loctite Bearing Mount between the Shafy and the inside ring of the bearing. Only trouble is I now read on that Husaberg site that side-way crank float is very important. And the Loctite will definitely restrict that movement. What do you think? Best of balance from the crazy man . Neo

Hi All, If you have every removed the Clutch Basket from the Primary Drive Clutch Pinion you know there 8 things called SILENT BLOCKs (M358) that I think need changing on my 06, 125 Sherco. First question....How do I check these SILENT BLOCKs are worn before separating the two parts?...I have +/- 1mm of (clock/anti-clock) play. Secondly What's the best way to get those rivets off and how do I fit the new rivets?...they look more like screw-in studs that have been cut-off to me. Best of balance. Neo

Thanks Cope, But I'm I missing something?....I keep going to http://www.rypusa.com/ but I can't see any Technical information anywhere Best of balance. Neo

Awsome information gents. Stork is "bore size" the diameter of the cylinder? Best of balance. Neo

Thanks for the info gents....did realise that nicasil stuff was so tuff. Looks like I'll postpone this idea for now and buy a 200 cylinder at a later time. Hi Cope....did you say in a past post that you'd fitted a 250 cylinder to a 125 gearbox? Best of balance. Neo

Thanks trialsnutterman this crazy man loves all this information ;-) Just to note I am working on my son's 06, 125 (not my 250). Best of balance. Neo

Hi All I've measured the piston ring gap and I'm getting Top Ring Gap 1.3mm Bottom Ring Gap 0.5mm The fact that they are different I assume they both need replacing. But what should the gap be? Best of balance. Neo

Yes I know the bearings are sealed but I reckon those holes are going to block up with carbon now anyway. And before that happens I reckon fine partials of carbon will make their way in-between the bearing and the seal and mess up the seals too. Tell me if I'm crazy Best of balance. Neo

This may have been coved before but I can't find the thread. What's my chances of having a 125 cylinder bored out and using a 200cc piston? Best of balance. Neo