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About longlegscanbeuseful

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  • Bike
    Ossa's TR280i & TR80

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  • Location
    County Durham
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  1. Hi All, I've decided to drag the 280i back into life. It tried to kill me 3.5 years ago and has been under the bench since with a smashed seat unit and cracked exhaust. I've stuck to the old faithful gripper ever since. Seat and exhaust now fixed and it started after about 10-15 kicks with just the old fuel in it, so not too badly set up. However, I would like to be able to set the TPS so will have a go at building the cable. Can I please get the software off one of you gentlemen out there. Also some maps if possible. Mine is the 2011 original model and has been on the same map since 2012 when i acquired it.
  2. Here you go... http://ossa.2y.net/ossa/reference/ossaref.html
  3. If all you did was change the clutch springs then I'd say your clutch is slipping. The kickstart is output side of the clutch and will not turn the engine if the clutch is disengaged. I found the lighter springs from Rex Caunt Racing needed to be adjusted a long way in to stop the clutch slip in 4th and 5th.
  4. Sorry, should have said English doesn't work. Just click on "Trial" in the grey tabs. That will open the trials manuals, then choose the one you want. Also info for carbs and electrics further down the page. I just downloaded them all in case they disappear one day.
  5. All the manuals are here.. http://www.vitalemaquinas.com/manuales-despieces.html
  6. I think "that part" is a crankcase bolt from near the top left of the stator, near to where the cable exits. The bracket bit acts as a cable guide/shield.
  7. Hi Adrian, if you check on the Inmotion website you'll find two options for the nut. The one you have is designed for the 10T sprocket as the chain would foul the standard nut. I can't help with the width right now as I'm working away from home, try calling them and ask them to measure the thickness. Yours does look a bit thicker than normal but that may be the close up angle of the photo. Also the key thing with the sprocket is the chain alignment with the back sprocket. In your photo the sprocket looks very worn on the side, is the other side the same? If not it would suggest poor previous chain alignment. I'll be happy to take some measurements next weekend if you don't get it sorted before then. Cheers, Gary
  8. How is your Spanish..? Try here for manuals.... http://www.vitalemaquinas.com/manuales-despieces.html
  9. I've been using these for years http://www.physioroom.com/product/McDavid_Flexy_Knee_Pad_Pair_/3328/38571.html.
  10. They are similar to the Gasgas forks, lots of stuff if you search on the Gasgas forum. Also try the link below and download the relevant documents. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html
  11. You're welcome Kingscorpion. You might want to check the float height if you are having fuel starvation problems. It's quite easy to disturb the adjustment during dis-assembly and re-assembly. Have a look at this website to help. It is for the OKO which is the copy of the Keihin. http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/Instal.html
  12. Cant help with 250 but i have a sweet running 350 with the oko version fitted. Main is 112, pilot is 55, slide no3, needle JJH and clip in the middle. Good luck.
  13. Hi, I had an '04 Beta with the same problems. Two things to look out for. Firstly there must be some play at the lever, about 3mm. If not he pads will bind and then get hot which will make them stick on. Second, I found that however clean and serviced the brakes were the problems would start after the pads were worn past 50%. Change the pads as soon as you see any uneven wear. If you need to get to your monies worth, keep the brakes clean and serviced and rotate the pads regularly to even up the wear. Good luck.
  14. I use the same Maplins 9v Battery box and yes it should be left switched on. Mine is located inside the airbox to keep it dry. The wiring is very simple, the red should go to the red at the capacitor on the headstock. The black should go to one side of the kill/starter switch, the otherside of the switch should go to the black wire at the capacitor. My standard batteries last at least 6 months. If you have access to a DVM then measure the battery voltage, if it's wired correctly the voltage will be same battery in or out of the box. The voltage should only drop when the button is pressed.
  15. http://www.vitalemaquinas.com/manuales-despieces.html Loads of stuff on here.
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