UPDATE: Thanks to a member on the FB TRS Owners Group I have discovered that instead of replacing the entire £42 bearing race on a 2022 bike of approx 100 hours, it should have been possible to replace only the garter spring part no 52902 (labelled No 15 in the exploded diagram on the TRS website) at a fraction of that cost.
It seems that this spring is available on European TRS websites at 2,15 Euros but is not available as a part option on the SXS UK website. Do I have this information correctly, because if so I will buy it abroad if there is a next time! Just a heads-up for UK owners. I have written to SXS with this comment.
Update on my earlier post re my TRS starter mechanism making a loud knock as it comes to a stop.
Forum advice (thank you, everybody!) suggested replacing the sprag (non-return/ freewheel) bearing which was supplied promptly by Steve Saunders SXS in Gloucestershire.
The fault which develops is that the spring holding the pawls in the race stretches. A great shame that this design has not been improved and also that you cannot buy just the spring – the original bearing and pawls are still perfect with no sign of wear or stress.
However what was not mentioned in the advice was that two of the pawls escaped from the bearing race whilst in transit and my ageing eyesight failed to detect that each pawl has striations on the outer surface that all need to face in the same direction – otherwise the bearing will grip in both directions, where it should only grip when rotated anti-clockwise.
It took my son-in-law’s keen eyes to spot my error and it would have been a lot easier had I known what to look for in the first place.
Hope this post might help somebody else in the future.
Update on my post re my TRS starter mechanism making a loud knock as it comes to a stop.
Forum advice (thank you, everybody!) suggested replacing the sprag (non-return/ freewheel) bearing which was supplied promptly by Steve Saunders SXS in Gloucestershire.
The fault which develops is that the spring holding the pawls in the race stretches. A great shame that this design has not been improved and also that you cannot buy just the spring – the bearing and pawls are still perfect with no sign of wear or stress.
However what was not mentioned in the advice was that two of the pawls escaped from the bearing race whilst in transit and my ageing eyesight failed to detect that each pawl has striations on the outer surface that all need to face in the same direction – otherwise the bearing will grip in both directions, where it should only grip when rotated anti-clockwise.
It took my son-in-law’s keen eyes to spot my error and it would have been a lot easier had I known what to look for in the first place.
Hope this post might help somebody else in the future.
I she blows you can disconnect the starter by removing the idler gear very easy. (spur gear between the starter and the sprag)
Thank you. I looked at a YouTube TRS video and figured this might be the issue though I don't much like the idea of removing the starter motor in order to replace it. Weird though, my nearest main dealer (sounded like a genuine guy) said he had never heard of it happening. Your reply very much appreciated, cheers.
Has anybody suffered this and found the soloution? 2022 TRS One RR starts and runs normally but there is a VERY loud metallic 'clack' sound when you switch the engine off as everything comes to rest. The 'clack' is the last noise to be heard. Something to do with centrifugal pawls retracting maybe? Any thoughts gratefully received because something definately isn't right. This has only just started happening, it was all fine before.
Does anyone know what this VIN represents? It was sold to me as a 2015 EC 300: VTRCGH2C3FG400037
Any help would be MUCH appreciated...
Get it from the horse's mouth - phone a main dealer or the importer, in my experience they are usually super helpful especially since the databases are so much better these days. Cheers. Trevbul1
I am an old-school greybeard rider with my first trials bike being a Bultaco Sherpa in 1978 that I used to ride to college weekdays and trial at weekends. I ride my current bikes 2 miles to my local practice ground on the road so 10/ 42 that my GG came with is too slow in top gear.
I am 61 now and am not even going to try 'stunt' sections, I just enjoy proper nadgery through tight woodland sections. I now run 10/ 38, am much happier with that set up. I never use 1st gear and 2nd only rarely, I use 3rd nearly all the time except 4th & 5th between sections.
Am I old-fashioned or has the sport changed dramatically these days that people want slow speed but quicker delivery? I just bought a TRS and the owner looked at me very strangely when I selected 3rd to pull away when I tried it out.
Any other oldies care to comment?
Happy riding, everybody. BTW, I maintain a list and have owned 46 bikes on and off road since I was thirteen.
There is a difference between the factory and std. Models. Also the Beta has more weight bias to the front.
The Gasser feels beter in the parking lot, but for low traction I would chose the Beta.
I had not considered it that way, it makes sense; the GG feels much lighter on the handlebars so perhaps gives the illusion of being much lighter overall. Thanks for your input.
I am fortunate in owning both a 2021 Gas Gas TXT 250 Racing and a 2018 Beta Evo 300 2T for friends to use. I am a 60-yr old rider with strength issues following a minor stroke.
To me, the Evo is very noticeably heavier tho' the internet puts the GG at 67kg and the Evo at 69kg. Although 2kg/ 4.4ibs is a considerable weight if you had to carry it around with you all day, to my mind the difference feels greater than that.
Plus, the Vertigo Titanium is listed at 66kg. All that extra money for less than 1kg? Your having a laugh.
So, is the difference I notice an illusion caused by frame geomentry and weight distribution or am I missing something? It is noticeable that for several manufacturers the posted weight for the same bike varies between different web pages.
What I would confirm is that I choose the GG over the Evo every time; it is far less tiring to ride - excepting for the fact that the Evo starts first kick every time and the GG takes 5 or 6 swings, which is exhausting and frustrating, especially when stalled at the bottom of a muddy climb.
Very interested in other people's opinions, thanks.
I am fortunate in owning both a 2021 Gas Gas TXT 250 Racing and a 2018 Beta Evo 300 2T for friends to use. I am a 60-yr old rider with strength issues following a minor stroke.
To me, the Evo is very noticeably heavier tho' the internet puts the GG at 67kg and the Evo at 69kg. Although 2kg/ 4.4ibs is a considerable weight if you had to carry it around with you all day, to my mind the difference feels greater than that.
Plus, the Vertigo Titanium is listed at 66kg. All that extra money for less than 1kg? Your having a laugh.
So, is the difference I notice an illusion caused by frame geomentry and weight distribution or am I missing something? It is noticeable that for several manufacturers the posted weight for the same bike varies between different web pages.
What I would confirm is that I choose the GG over the Evo every time; it is far less tiring to ride - excepting for the fact that the Evo starts first kick every time and the GG takes 5 or 6 swings, which is exhausting and frustrating, especially when stalled at the bottom of a muddy climb.
Very interested in other people's opinions, thanks.
It always used to be (I understood) that the 10th character of the frame number was the year of the bike
However I have a 2021 (First registration, declared new) where the 10th character is 'M' (2013) and a friend has the letter ' 'H' 2008 but the bike is registerd as 2017.
Anybody shed any light on any of this please? Did they have a glut of frames that they are still using up?
I have a 2003 GG 250 TXT Edition and a 2021 TXT Racing side-by-side at the moment. I can tell you for sure that the 2003 bike is a good deal heavier but can't say by how much. Just take the rear wheels out; they are considerably different in weight on thir own.
All I can say for sure is, being partially disabled, the new bike is a lot easier to ride for two hours, no question about it.
Long story short, I have a 2021 250 TXT Racing and a 2003 TXT 250 Edition so friends can come out to play now and then.
Obviously the new bike is lighter and I understand the factory spec to be 64kg
I have been unable to find any data on the Edition, which I understand was a discounted model using older engines before the launch of the new TXT range in 2003
Does anybody happen to know what it weighs, please? Happily, it is still competitive at entry level and starts first kick, which is more than can be said for the 2021 bike, unfortunately!
I had a 2006 4RT with the same issue. The fuel injector was partially blocked. I pulled the injector and cleaned it with some carb cleaner as that is all I had at the moment and wanted a running bike. I was lucky that the injector o-ring was in good shape so I was able to reuse it. The bike was spot on after the cleaning and, to this day, is still running like a top.
One guy told me that the new E5/ E10 fuels can condense water droplets that won't atomise in the injector, blocking it, if there is a sharp change in atmospherics. Glad you could reuse the o-ring; never having worked on an EFI before, I did not dare separate the injector!
Checked that the air filter was not over-oiled and that the fuel cap was breathing correctly.
Drained the tank and removed the top banjo from the injector so I could soak out that fuel with a rag, replaced the fuel with fresh 99 octane and checked the fuel was running freely from the outlet. BTW, I met a guy once who had (evventually!) found that atheft-detection transponder had come unglued inside the tank and blocked the fuel line!
Replced the plug with a brand new CR6EH-9
Reassembled and kicked it repeatedly with the plug out to hopefully draw throufgh the new fuel.
Checked the routing of the throttle cable and lubed it to ensure that the throttle was fully closing with an audible click at the injector end. (I'm sure everybody knows by now that 4RT's only start on a dead throttle)
Wound the idle adjuster out ONE FULL TURN anti-clockwise
Replaced the plug and fully rotated the kickstart twice SLOWLY with the throttle wide open to reset the ECU; I know the jury is out as to whether this is a real thing or not, but it can't hurt.
Carefully positioned the kickstart to find the top of the compression at the 5 to 12 position.
Kicked it smoothly all the way down and held the kickstart against the footrest.
It starts first or second kick every time now.
I had to readjust the tickover speed once it had warmed up, so don't put the mdguard back on until it is running!
Many thanks to all who offered suggestions and happy riding.
I recently posted that a friend's 4RT had a spark and a plug wet with fuel but would not run.
Following advice from various sources, I;
Checked that the air filter was not over-oiled and that the fuel cap was breathing correctly.
Drained the tank and removed the top banjo from the injector so I could soak out that fuel with a rag, replaced the fuel with fresh 99 octane and checked the fuel was running freely from the outlet. BTW, I met a guy once who had (evventually!) found that atheft-detection transponder had come unglued inside the tank and blocked the fuel line!
Replced the plug with a brand new CR6EH-9
Reassembled and kicked it repeatedly with the plug out to hopefully draw throufgh the new fuel.
Checked the routing of the throttle cable and lubed it to ensure that the throttle was fully closing with an audible click at the injector end. (I'm sure everybody knows by now that 4RT's only start on a dead throttle)
Wound the idle adjuster out ONE FULL TURN anti-clockwise
Replaced the plug and fully rotated the kickstart twice SLOWLY with the throttle wide open to reset the ECU; I know the jury is out as to whether this is a real thing or not, but it can't hurt.
Carefully positioned the kickstart to find the top of the compression at the 5 to 12 position.
Kicked it smoothly all the way down and held the kickstart against the footrest.
It starts first or second kick every time now.
I had to readjust the tickover speed once it had warmed up, so don't put the mdguard back on until it is running!
Many thanks to all who offered suggestions and happy riding.
Only had it 5 months. looked v clean when we bought it (suspension, brakes etc excellent), not so great under the tank we discovered, lots of dust and grime on the wiring
2007 standard 4RT 250 was running fine but first, suddenly would cut out when the throttle was touched and now won't start at all. Checked the air fllter, plug, fuel feed from tank (fresh 99 fuel); the plug is wet and it has a spark; doesn't make sense that it won't run. No changes made to idle speed, always used to start on a dead throttle and throttle is fully closed.
Any thoughts please? I can't find anybody local with a diagnostic tool that won't charge me about as much as the bike is worth and reading the manual on diagnostics is gobbledegook to me, I barely understand one word in three... Bring back carbs and points!
I've got one but it's really basic, hardly worth bothering with really. If you meant a workshop manual, sorry, can't help, but there is a YouTube video for most things you really need. I'd copy you my manual but unfortunately it is with my bike 500 miles from where I'm sitting and I won't be reunited with it until October, by which time, soz, but I will have forgotten all about you!
Actually, just remembered my manual is a 2006 anyway. Ditto to previous reply, take a look at the GG website, there is an English version, just Google it.
TRS E-starter mechanism has loud metallic noise as it is switched off....
in TRS
Posted