They all have quirks. Beta sells plenty of bikes every year, if it was an issue for all of them they wouldn't still be in business.
I guess you pick your quirks.. but I think the trs ones sound more trivial than it jumping out of gear. I mean, what's the point buying a new bike to make the most of a trial, when the bike can ruin it.. potentially dangerously too.
I don't think every Beta EVO pops out of gear just like not every GasGas takes 15 kicks to start
Problem is, if anyone is going to have a problem bike it'll be me. I can guarantee it. Happens every time. It's why I won't buy second hand, but even then every new bike I get has problems.
Have I? Actually I was leaning towards the beta until I read about the popping out of gear. I'd say that is unacceptable on a trials bike. The main selling point of the beta is that it is tried and tested and they last really well but if that isn't true then the trs stands above it I guess.
But that was the consensus in 2016 and now the Beta is more poular........its a difficult one ....do you want a bike that stays in gear or one that pops out
Fair one but I really meant "what did you get and how is/was it"
The beta is more popular now? Really? Why is that? And isn't it the beta that jumps out of gear?
@al_orange I’ve just spoke to Steve Saunders (TRS UK distributor) to get the answer to the same question you’re asking. He explained that although the Keihn carb on the RR does make the bike smoother through out the rev range, it does also make it snappier and he thinks it could be a hindrence for a novice/entry level clubman rider. He said the ONE is noticeably softer in the throttle and suggested I get that at novice level, and maybe even put a slow action throttle on, because i’m coming back into the spart after a long time out. I don’t think i’ll need the slow action throttle but could do without it being snappier than normal.
He also said I probably won’t get any benefit out of the other upgrades for a couple of years either, but like you I wasn’t too fussed about that I just dont want the extra bits to hold me back.
Hope that helps ??
@Ricki mcvey that's very cool of Steve to be so honest about that. I guess it makes sense to sell the most appropriate bike as then you end up with a happier customer. Plus then we can upgrade in a couple of years.
I'm still waiting until the new year but I cannot decide between the old trusty Beta Evo and the new sexy TRS. I value reliability but when I look at a 2019 EVO, there are so many bits that are the same as my 2001 Rev!!! And the TRS just looks and sounds so nice. Spoilt for choice I guess.
On my 2001, the wiring didn't quite match any diagrams but was close enough to figure out. On mine, it was the regulator that was US. It had a clear crack in the bottom and was full of crap. Fitted a new one but had to change the connectors to fit the older loom.
It is a royal pain to work on and diagnose as you have to remove the exhaust to get to the rad screw, to get to the electrics. I ended up leaving my thermostat bridged because I just couldn't be bothered removing it all again.
The main issue i have had with TRS is how tight the bolts are on them. The air box does get a lot of mud in it i noticed this especially on my 2016 and the pilot jet in the carb would block a lot. On the 2018 they haven't improved this. You need to make sure you have a really good air filter oil and you grease the outer ring of it. You nearly need to clean the air filter every ride especially in the wet you will even need to take the airbox off and clean it out. From what i gather people grease the seal around the lid and and put tape over it. It helps a bit but the majority of the mud comes in through the rectangular breather in the airbox. I'm still waiting under warranty for my new trs to get bigger orings, as they cut the groves on the cylinder head to deep, so it is leaking coolant which i have to top up after every ride. The chain tension is terrible my bike hasn't even done a couple of weeks worth of riding and its as shaky as anything.
That's a real shame. I was naively thinking that they were not subject to this sort of thing...
Anachronism, mine was a new 2018 RR 250, the engine is fine, clutch is good, no dragging and easy gear/neutral selection, starts easy. Handles well and stays nice and steady over microwave sized rocks and slabs.
Comparing to GG and personal experience/preference, the TRS doesn't turn as easy takes more effort on tight stuff, needs another gear (the jump from 4th to 5th is too much of a gap) doesn't grip as easy on wet grass or clay.
Airbox let's as much water in as a GG, the airbox snaps off very easily I've seen a few of these go, mine included, my water pump impeller sheared its drive splines from its brass insert, the fan didn't work because the multi plug wiring was defective, I've seen and know of others that have snapped the rear linkage, mine had play on the swinging arm bushes from new, the engine and swinging arm paint is self peeling, the radiator guard is insecure, the radiator is awkward to top up.
Any way time to go but you pay your money you make your choice.
Thanks for the input. I wasn't aware of those sorts of issues. Good to know. I'm cautious of GG as they have already gone bust in recent years and I want to keep the bike for a while.
I'm very tempted by a new TRS. I fancied the RR (because I like bling and it will hopefully be a keeper for at least 5 years). I'm a novice on my way to clubman and someone at the weekend said that a normal One would be preferable for a novice as it would be more forgiving and the RR is more for the guys that spend all day on the back wheel.
I know what the specs say the differences are but in the real world, which would be better for developing and learning on? I'm fortunate enough that the price difference isn't a factor.
I'm yet to hear a bad word about the TRSs and they seem to be getting very popular so I figure it must be a good bike. Far better than I'll ever be anyway.
Do you mean the fan doesn't come on at all or it works but then stops working when the bike gets really hot? Assuming the former.
FWIW - my fan stopped working and I did some basic trouble shooting (checked the thermostat and visually checked the wiring) but nothing really systematic as described above - not even aware there was a fuse in mine! The one thing that stood out was that the bottom of the regulator had a crack in it. So I just went ahead and bought a new regulator, wired it up and it was fixed. I also took the opportunity to remove excess wiring (light circuit etc.), moved the kill switch earth and ended up leaving the fan hard wired on (laziness).
It can be daunting but the wiring is so simple on these old bikes that it's worth having a go and trying to figure it out
If you use an exhaust plug and block the airbox there is no need to run them up after a wash. I don't know what people are doing to be getting water in the engine!
Sheepy - out of interest can you jump clean on top of it by using the double blip? I know you're trying to learn the zap but if you get the double blip first then you can add in the clutch. That way you can separate the jump and the clutch aspects and nail both.
It is just semantics but it's much easier if people use the correct/same terms. As a novice I find it very confusing myself.
So... a Roll Up is when you simply lighten the front and use throttle to ride up and over an obstacle. E.g. an 8 inch log
A double blip is where you lift the front wheel into the obstacle and use a distinct second blip to drive the front wheel high so that the rear wheel rides up it without impacting the skid plate and without making the rear wheel hop off the ground. E.g. an 18 inch ledge
A zap is a double blip with the assistance of the clutch and a more physical jump to get the rear wheel to hop into/onto the obstacle. E.g. an undercut ledge or big pipe.
Is that close enough? They seem to bleed into each other and you can obviously use a double blip in the majority of cases.
I've also read that the height at which you land the front wheel makes a difference in terms of lift and if traction is poor but are the basic techniques as above?
Personally, I tend to do a zap without the clutch (or a double blip with rear wheel lift).. so I'm not sure what I should actually be practicing..
I'd come up with a different user name when advertising that one if I were you☺
Lol.. I've no intention of selling it. It's maybe worth a few/two hundred as it runs fine and has good tyres and brakes so I'll just hang on to it. My missus can use it for a bit too. There's something liberating about having a bike that owes you nothing but still starts second kick every time.
And although that list is long, there's an equally long list of all the new parts and work I've done on it.
Money in this day and age is not better off in the bank. You wake up in the morning some day with zero balance or the bank just stays closed. (Greece ring a bell) That digital money does not really exist. Buy the bike, have some fun and bury some cash every payday.
It's all totally off topic but actually, I'm trying to allow myself a bit more indulgence rather than squirrelling it all away for the day I may need some fictional amount of money. I wouldn't even be considering a new bike normally. To be fair, apart from the oultlay on the bike, trials is amazingly cheap.
Sounds to me that you made your mind up beforehand but money is better off in the bank [trials bike not an investment for sure] for when the sxxt hits the fan; unless of course you are lucky enough to have a money tree as a lot have nowadays .....or is that just access to credit and walking the highwire without a net?
I just mean that if I am to carry on doing trials then it's inevitable that I'll need a new bike but I'm pondering if it's worth doing it now (I.e. will it help me improve) or wait until I'm a clubman/B.
I certainly don't have a money tree! At this point in time I am fortunate enough to be able to consider buying a new trials bike if I feel it's worth the investment. I will check out the nearly new (1-2 year old) market too.
I will try my best to get a go on something newer then. I'm also going to a 250 from a 270 with a flywheel weight so there will be a lot to get used to. I am always amazed at what my old bent bike will do but perhaps he's had enough:
Shot swing arm bearings
Saggy shock
Bent subframe
New pegs and hangers but the frame itself is sagging!
Leaky rear wheel
Bendy rear disc
No graphics
Dodgy jetting
Worn sprockets
Dirty air filter
Brand new piston and replated cylinder that were promptly drowned.
And the handle bar brace squeeks when I go down hills..
And that's after I've spent more than the bikes worth and more hours than I can count doing it up! Still, it just keeps on going and going and I enjoy riding it.
At novice level probably not much more than it being a lighter more agile bike plus you can have some choice in rear shocks and springs to fit[at a price of course] ...buying a new bike does not mean that you can be sure it will be 100% and give no grief. a 2010 on Beta EVO is basically the same bike as a 2016 or newer. A lot of trials bikes see very little use so you can save a lot of money buy searching out one of those older bikes.
So at novice level, would I benefit from the correct springs? In enduro it makes a massive difference so I assume it would be of benefit ti turning and grip?
There are a handful of nice looking bikes out there. I should have a look. I'm just a bit funny about 2nd hand bikes. Always that nagging feeling that you don't know what it's had done to it.. plus, I know my rev really well but I don't know if I know enough to look at another one.
Random question but have the known issues with the engine case and the stator been fixed in the newer models?
Evo Factory Or Trs?
in General Trials Talk
Posted
I guess you pick your quirks.. but I think the trs ones sound more trivial than it jumping out of gear. I mean, what's the point buying a new bike to make the most of a trial, when the bike can ruin it.. potentially dangerously too.