Just get a Michelin. The front lasts forever and you'll have more fun because you'll actually have traction. Plus it's only a few quid more which considering it'll last years makes it insignificant.
Even brand new bikes have a little play at the end of the swinging arm , there has to be some play in each bearing or it won't move. If you then add that for each bearing x the length of swingingarm then there is a little bit of play. However this sounds like the spacers are out of spec.
Could always try bearing fit.....It's just a loctite product.
Sure. That makes sense. It was/is the very definite clunk that got my attention. On inspection, the top hat spacers on the bottom shock bearing are pretty sloppy on the bolt (and are not in any way worn). The other bearings are as good as can be. Have ordered new spacers and o-rings and will report back when they come.
How much play are you talking about at the end of the swinging arm ? If it's excessive you can probably buy the spacers separately
It's enough that I noticed it when lifting the bike onto the stand. It's not much really but I would expect it to be completely tight on what is basically a new bike. I'm guessing they are normally completely tight?
The play is between the spacers and the bolt but nothing actually looks worn. I've tentatively tried to remove the spacers but they don't want to budge. The other spacers in the linkage just pull out as per normal.
Presumably the spacers on the lower shock bearing should come out with a gentle prod?
How frequently (riding hours) do people re-grease their linkage and shock bearings?
I've done mine once at 20 hours and now at 27 hours the lower shock bearing is shot.
(EDIT - So, I've taken apart the linkage and it looks like the bottom shock bearing is a heim bearing and seems to be ok. The play looks to be between the actual bolt and the spacers. Is that normal? I know you can have play there if the bolt is loose but I torqued it to 50nm and it's still there).
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Surely every 10 hours would be over the top?
I do ride muddy areas and I do use a jet wash but surely I would expect them to last longer than that! My enduro bikes get a much harder life and are jet washed to death and the shock bearings will last at least 100 hours.
Are my expectations unreasonable?
(Oh and queue next thread on how to best replace them and where to get them from ?)
A week after a -40 degree Celsius cold snap on the prairies in Canada, the Moto Trials Group of Alberta (check us out on Facebook) hosted a great two day event. Horse riding arenas make great trials venues during a cold Canadian winter.
Nice!
I enjoy your the youtube vids from your group too. Looks like you've got a good group of riders and some excellent riding areas.
I had a similar story with my bike pressurising the rad from new (Feb 2019).
It's been a long drawn out process due to different commitments on both sides but the dealer and importer have sorted it out. The bike had gone back and forth a couple times and I had tried different o rings and head before that etc. I think I went through the process of draining the coolant and removing the rad and head 3 or 4 times. So it did take time.
First ride out on it today and it seems to be ok but I'll give it another couple rides before I'm convinced.
All in all, I really like the bike and have been relieved that the dealer and importer sorted it out under warranty (even collecting the bike from near me). Unfortunately, the bike is now a year old and I've only managed 24 hours on it.
It sounds like the majority of the bikes are good but there are some stinkers out there. Most importantly, it looks like the importer is very good at dealing with issues and making sure all is good. Hopefully it continues and hopefully the brand becomes well established and remains in play for years.
I've had the engine scream out of control a few times. Even pulling the spark plug doesn't help. It was caused by the cable housing getting jammed on the outside of the throttle tube housing. Wiggle that first.
Keeping the throttle cable properly adjusted is the best preventative.
I've also heard putting the bike in fifth gear with the rear brake on can stall the engine but I've never tried it... Keeping calm is the hardest thing!
Good idea by Arnoux to practice the tail pipe covering. I'll put it on the list with my buddies.
I've used the "block the end can" method a couple of times and it works perfectly.
I lockwire the throttle cable outer to the throttle tube housing so that it is less likely to get pulled out. When the bike is idling, you can just pull the end of the cable outer from the housing and the bike revs up as if you've opened the throttle. Lockwire it in place and you can't do this.
Here's a crazy idea. It seems the real problem is that the top 2/3 (5?) Riders are so far ahead of the rest. I see two options:
1. Force retire anyone that wins the WTC 3 times.
2. Have an extra class for those that have won it 3 times but have the official world championship be the other class.
Basically, which ever way we cut it, the "problem" is the gap between the very top and the rest. I don't see anyone beating Bou until he is too old or too bored with winning. Remove him from the competition and you open it up. Seems like a crazy idea but the alternative is just wait for him and Raga to retire. Which could well be 7 or more years.
Hmm... I can see that being true but as a reasonable novice that has a huge amount to learn, I will now have to dedicate considerable time to learning hopping in order to compete at clubman level. I think the problem with stop allowed is that every single section becomes a string of "hop, hop ,hop, braaaap" and repeat.
I've been watching a load of the older videos and as a beginner and spectator, the current rules at world level are the best overall in my opinion.
I'm confused??? why would you mark a 5 on each section before you ride them? Trials, much like golf rely s on a certain amount of honesty from the competitor.
I ride trials for the challenge of man and machine over terrain. Personally I like to have a sense of achievement when conquering a section and a humility when I fail. If a person claims a better score than they actually achieved then they are only really cheating themselves, and will most likely get found out eventually anyhow. I would like to believe most folk would rather be proud of real achievement over falsely winning a tin pot for the mantle piece.
I agree. On trials that are self observed or even ones where more than a couple sections are, I just accept that the trial is basically a structured practice and enjoy myself. As a principle I will never cheat at a self observed trial but it is so blatantly obvious that a lot of people are cheating, so I just ignore the results. I take the opportunity to repeat sections, or try a harder route, when there is no-one waiting etc. and make the most of the fact that people have taken the time to set out some sections for me.
As to splattered stu, I think it's sad that you have that view. Either you're very unlucky with the people that ride where you are, or you're taking things far to personally.
I really enjoyed it and there was a good bit on trials in there and how much Malcom Rathmell helped him.
Very positive on the sport of trials.
Well worth a read
Yep me too. Thought it was a bit shallow in terms of detail about riding etc. But it must have been pitched right as the Mrs read it and enjoyed it too. Even got her watching some of the Red bull TV enduro stuff with me.
Without a doubt, the cheapest form of motorsport for absolutely everything... except Trials Trousers.. for some reason, they are obscenely expensive!
Mile for mile, a road bike is cheaper but you can probably run a trials bike for a couple years for the price of a single dealer service on a road bike!
I'd be interested to see the actual facts of a case where a land-owner has been arbitrarily sued/liable for compensation. I know those waivers aren't worth the paper they are written on but you have to at least have a case for negligence etc.
The way I understand it (could well be wrong) is that if I'm riding somewhere and fall off or whatever and hurt myself then it's my problem. However, should I be riding around and then fall on some metal spike sticking out of the ground or a tree falls on me or something, then the land-owner is (and probably should be) liable. Same with other riders - just because "motorsport is dangerous" is displayed at the entry, if some idiot rides in a dangerous manner or rides a bike that is dangerous and hurts me, you can damn well bet I'm going to recover my losses.
I know the law can be an ass but this is the UK and not the US and I don't believe the scare-mongering without evidence.
I found it hardest to get to a decent 10-20 seconds, then from there work to a minute, then it was fairly easy to get through a song (put the radio on), then as long as I can be bothered (which is when my feet start to hurt on the pegs). The hardest part is staying focused - I found.
Get out there daily or every other day for 10-30 minutes at a time. Keep it fresh and don't get upset when you don't succeed. Drop the tyres to 4f/1r to start with. Again, search on here for tips. It's so worth the effort - but don't beat yourself up!
I'm just moving to clubman from novice but my advice is - Work on Static Balance (engine off) in your garden/garage asap. Get to the point you can balance on both sides for more than 5 minutes with normal pressures (6f/4r). This shouldn't take very long and will greatly increase your learning of all other skills.
Use the search function here to find all the tips but basically, start with very low tyre pressures and full lock.
Iv been and tried on the gearne just to see wow how comfy are they i dont know if thats a bad thing but comfy
They are mega comfy but don't offer a huge amount of support. They fit wide feet well and are sized accurately I think - I wear a 9 in trainers and 9 in boots. In terms of peg feel, I've never noticed while wearing but when static balancing in trainers, my pegs hurt my feet after about 10 mins so they must be ok. The soles don't seem to last too well though. They are waterproof but stink after a few months because of sweat.
I'll have a test today. I've not noticed any problems at all going up or down the box, only the fact that I end up double shifting to get in to second. I can find neutral pretty easily once the bike is warm. When it's cold, I can't physically move the lever into neutral with the engine running.
54 minutes ago, baldilocks said:
Can't you take it back to the dealer ?
I could although it's a bit of a trek and I don't KNOW that there's actually something wrong but the comments on this thread point to that being the case. I may have to take it back for another issue so it would be worth mentioning.
We had one that used to get hung up between 1st and 2nd, even with the engine off.
Turned out to be the bearing on the back of the selector drum not quite pressed home and made the selector drum tight.
If you strip the clutch and clutch casing off and remove the gearchange mechanism, you should be able to get a socket / nut driver on the end of the selector drum to see if it has free movement.
If its tight a good thwack with a mallet should hopefully seat the bearing without splitting the cases. I split mine so I could identify the fault.
Hope this helps!
???
God I hope it's nothing like that.. I really like the bike to ride but there are a few niggles that are making the ownership a bit less enjoyable.
I use Rock Oil 75 Pro Gear oil and put in 300ml after a change.
Maybe the clutch drags a bit. I had trouble with air in the line from delivery but it's been fine since then.. will have to have a look.
Does it shift well from 2nd to 3rd and the other gear.
Guy
Yes, absolutely fine. It takes a positive change but never drops into a false neutral or anything. It just sort of feels like it takes a bit more effort than I would expect.
You need a NOVA number for import duty proof. If it was paid the bike will have a NOVA ref number...... Again it depnds on age as NOVA has only been around since April 2013 but you have to apply for one even if it 's before that date as DVLA will not register without it.
Perfect. Ta. It'll be interesting to see if the left hand can talk to the right hand and see if it goes through without me having to trace down a reference that should already be available to them...
If at all possible, get the dealer to do it. If not, the government website does have useful information but you need a certificate of newness and other details about the bike, which you'll have to get from the importer.
I've just sent mine off and it was relatively easy but I'm not 100% sure it'll be successful. I've read about proving that the vat or import duty was paid but not sure how other than sending the original invoice in.
I know a lot of bikes have trouble going from first to second but my 2019 rr is almost guaranteed to go into neutral when changing from first to second in a section. I generally have to change up once to neutral and then again to second. It's ok when stationary but does take a firm up-shift to make it.
Is anyone else experiencing this? Any tips to make this change a bit slicker? The clutch doesn't drag (much, if at all) but the bike only has 15 or so hours on it so maybe it'll bed in a bit? Would lowering the lever help do you think?
Budget tyres
in General Trials Talk
Posted
Just get a Michelin. The front lasts forever and you'll have more fun because you'll actually have traction. Plus it's only a few quid more which considering it'll last years makes it insignificant.