I'd like to thank all on here whom have helped in the past when I've had queries or needed helped, when I was but a rookie SWM owner and not the Uber Anorak Owner I later became.
Martin at Moto SWM needs thanking too, like Dave at BikeTech GasGas it's great when someones business is also their passion.
Honestly getting parts was far easier than for my late Yamaha WRF's I've owned....chatting with some bored and spotty 16 year, who grunts when distracted from the smartphone is not a fantastic experience I'd like to share.
Yesterday at tthe trial the old boys running newer stuff, were fondly remembering that even when new, these Montys's came with some free neutrals kindly donated by Montesa.
Is there a fix, or a case of "they all do that sir"
Bless the old girl, she really shone on the loose, sandy hill climbs, such a soft 'n friendly engine but grunty when needed, love this bike.
Soooooo glad I did the clutch spring mod', when we run the modern mono's the sections around there are getting so tight it's really tough for twin shocks - well it is with my limited ability), you simply can't 'ride' the sections without a lot of clutch work at some point, or ya looking at fives.
Saying that I may lower my gearing, she's on OE gearing and this seems a tad fast?
My Speedy has been lower to the point whereby 1st is almost redundant but great for the tight 'n tough stuff, and I can change gear in the section without getting a box full of neutrals.
Yup, and a backhoe on the rear end, there's a lot of tin work to hack off it for sure...should lighten it by half a ton....not sure where the other half would from come though?
But it has a certain charm, there are few things to wonder and enthuse over. For example, I like the rubber pads on the tank, to stop me bashing my legs when I fall off, that is forward thinking, even Beta REVS don't have this cutting edge safety feature.
Betors work fine for me on my Speedy with the caveat of the correct spring rate...If I had I gold plated factory Ohlins front and rear I'd still the same crap rider.
I've NJB's on my 247 and they are stiff as fence posts...need correct springs, previous owner was a fuller figured fellow.
Those in the hopping 'n jumping Red Route experts like a Rock Shock around these parts, but I think they could have angle iron rear end and still be competitive...thinking of a Bantam hard tail rider
Theres is a Matchless G5 for sale locally, the erm 'lightweight' series....
Anyone trialed one, or even know anything about them? I could just use it as a roadbike if it's a complete non-starter...in the trials sense. Bit of a curio thing, pudding basin, goggles , white scarf 'n glass of milk.
1960 350cc single....the fake unit engine one...you know, the one with big bulbous engine cases...similar (same as, bar name tags!) AJS model 8. Or a G2 250cc with 350 AJS 8 engine if you wish.
Scratch the ATF....in this hot weather and a long trial the ATF is getting too hot.
My bike when hot has a noise as the clutch plates go finally fully home...sort of a rattley grrrup noise which is worse on ATF. Using OE all metal sintered plates.
I did the polishing on my MAR. In the past, I have polished other aluminum items and even plastic aircraft windsheilds.
Depending upon how bad the surface is kind of determines the action to take.
My OSSA had been stored outdoors for many years. The surfaces of the engine side covers was corroded, and there were scrapes also. Same for the rims, hubs, forks and more.
I was able to glass bead all the parts except the rim. Glass beading removed the corrosion for the most part, but leaves a blasted textured finish. Next I used a Dual Action sander, same as for automotive bodywork. I started with 120 grit and finished with 600 grit.
For polishing, I secured the item by either clamping or using screws into the wooden makeshift plywood polishing table.
I then used an electric polisher, with a large knitted wheel. Foam wheels would work also until the final finish. Using the knitted wheel, I used Mother brand aluminum wheel polish. Going from 600 to near mirror finish is pretty easy.
On aircraft parts I have used other polishes. Most work well. Flitz is good. Simichrome is good. Met All. And no doubt others will all give good results. Often it is simply how much time and effort are you willing to endure. It is very dirty work. Once done though, often a simple touchup restores the finish.
For those doing the tadk by hand, yes it can be done. To obtain a good result with less effort a low cost polishing pad or wheel in the electric drill can work also.
If you do use a knitted or fabric pad, use an old screwdriver and clean the wheel often.
Remember, do not use papertowels, they can scratch the finish, I was using old towels, not the best but they do work. Microfibre cloths work well also. Just ensure if you wash the rags, do so outside with soap and water before the washing machine.
Wow....if Carlsberg did answers to polishing case's thanks for that
It wasn't too bad before, compared to some, smooth but my wimpy hand was getting real tired after the last trial, almost couldn't work the clutch it ached so much. It was a real tight trial needing lots of clutch....and being a new to me bike, I was using far too much anyway.
Downside....she can be made to slip in 4/5th if you try by dropping clutch with revs up dragging rear brake....but my springs look like the originals so maybe tired?
I can live with a that as I don't ride sections in 4th or 5th.
Running ATF too and clutch isn't as grabby but will run 10/40 as an ABA test.
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, all the best
), you simply can't 'ride' the sections without a lot of clutch work at some point, or ya looking at fives.
...you know, the one with big bulbous engine cases...similar (same as, bar name tags!) AJS model 8. Or a G2 250cc with 350 AJS 8 engine if you wish.
thanks for that
247/330/348 manuals linky
in Montesa
Posted
Maybe of some help to someone
https://www.motorcycle-manual.com/montesa/