iconic558

I was told that these Monts can start backwards.....I thought that was more a Fantic trick?

But they've not seen me ride

Wow, so much lighter. It wasn't too bad before, compared to some, smooth but my wimpy hand was getting real tired after the last trial, almost couldn't work the clutch it ached so much. It was a real tight trial needing lots of clutch....and being a new to me bike, I was using far too much anyway. Downside....she can be made to slip in 4/5th if you try by dropping clutch with revs up dragging rear brake....but my springs look like the originals so maybe tired? I can live with a that as I don't ride sections in 4th or 5th. Running ATF too and clutch isn't as grabby but will run 10/40 as an ABA test.

Cheers

Well first time out on the Mont' and did really well on her....beat my riding buddy. Comparing the two the Speedy has lots more power, sharper brakes, plush suspension and light progressive clutch, quick chassis, runs consistently with spot on carburation a properly sorted cutting edge bike..... but..... .....the Mont is soft, small, stable and very friendly. We seem to gel instantly. I'm a bit odd in what I like....can't get on with TY175's at all, Fantic 200's too....I like a ploddy engine I guess? I think the Speedy is a far better bike in the right hands, but suited more for a talented rider than myself. A good rider would do better on a Speedy than the Mont.....Mr Below Average suits the Mont more...thats me. Evey the Monty is officially a keeper

Cheers guys

Montesa 247C with Amal mk2 Concentric. Now the bike starts n rides fine but for this odd issue. Even when hot, stop the bike, restart after say a minute and ride off, just off idle and she dies after 10 yards....keep the gas up for say 30 secs longer and ride her on just off idle and she gets thru this and is ok again and will be...until stopped again. It's annoying as it means I either keep her running in the queue for a section or restart her and give her some beans before the section to get over this 'blip'....not good if you have any mechanical sympathy. Now from what I read Amals can be a little quirky. My thoughts are she is running slightly weak but I should add idles good when hot on 2 turns out of air screw....saying that idle speed creeps up as she gets hotter, not by lots though but enough to notice. Worn throttle needle and seat....but wouldn't this cause a rich condition? It's as if she cools down in 30 secs At this point I have not touched the carb', just asking the question. Cheers guys

I just couldn't make sense of the clutch mechanism then it dropped into place

Doh! I think the clutch plates come out out of the driven basket as a package....so no need to pull the whole assembly off?

It would be easier for me if Eastern and other sections used the same colours for routes....I did a trial at Cambridge and ended up getting so lost I rode over and stopped on the observers sandwiches.....got a five for that as it was 'no stop' In Eastern have from easy to hard orange....white...50/50...red and blue....red....yellow I think

You need to get that bike running as Fantic intended. A slipping clutch that drags, with an action as heavy as the water at Telemark, an idle speed up and down like a hookers knickers, brakes that don't.....you could save an easy 30 marks there. Personally I think ya just bragging, my first trials score looked more like the start of a darts game

Ohh.....and the flywheel weight and nut both had a hole for lockwire....I used threadlock when it went back together.

It's all back together again, never did get the basket off, but had a thought that I could of placed a suitably bolt between the end of the gearbox input shaft and the end of the puller. Changed my clutch thrust bearing (pusher) though for a brass one. The one that came out was steel and the end groove was just about missing and around 2/3mm shorter, so not a wasted few hours.

I wanted to remove two clutch springs from my basket but ran into an issue. My basket won't come off. We ended up with a two legged puller and the basket is coming off bloody tight but it's moving. We then run out of movement on the puller as the end of the puller threaded shaft is butting up against the clutch pack it's self. I thought these were just a pull off by hand job?

It does fit on the inside of the fork leg! Well I measured the gap using my vernier and low and behold there was room.....just, to fit the cable retainer on the inside of the fork leg. Angle is now perfect but had to take a nibble out of the mudguard for the cable. That front brake arm is still bugging me though. It seems to be two pieces of tin spot welded in but two places and really needs beefing up. I can still see it flexing and it's super easy to bend. Anyway cheers guys for the help on resolving this one

Thanks

http://amalcarb.co.uk/carbspec/carburettor/spares/id/5341/ Found this but 73/74 mk1

Hi guys, has anyone the standard carb settings for a '78 247. Amal mk2 Concentric Needle, clip setting, main, pilot sizes, float height. Many thanks as always First time out for old girl...wow what a cracking little bike, brilliant handling and a great engine.

Hmm.....I can see a unique paint job ' powder coated cases and forks....I don't think I can't be asked with the regular polishing

Wow thats tight....maybe I do have room afterall. Thanks for taking the time out to take that pic'

Cheers

Will do guys....more to follow

Cheers

Just had quick look and it looks as if there isn't enough room to place the cable retainer on the onside of the fork leg....odd?