nostroke

Not sure if this will help but having a slightly dirty potentiometer can act like that I would think. I've used both Magura and Domino on several bikes and I don't recall that either one uses a hall effect sensor. You can observe the "dirty" signal as an erratic ohm value when tested disconnected from bike. A 0-5k pot with three wires will read about 5k ohms between two wires regardless of twisting position. The third wire is the signal where you would observe the erratic resistance across it and either of the two other wires. Its a simple metal wiper (signal) that moves across a fixed wire wound 'fixed' resistor. But it could be a hall type non-contact also used a lot. I've seen quite a few 'dirty' reading throttle pots and they usually are near the lower throttle position, likely due to more wiping at low throttle.

Oh, OK just read your link, thanks. Looks do-able but there are probably a lot of parameters that I would need from motor mfgr. Due to the lack of any serious ramp programming on this Alltrax golf cart controller I used here, I made an audio taper (log) potbox so you have great slow precision on an otherwise sketchy throttle and you get the big splat energy when you wick it open. Almost as good as a clutch overall but way easier to ride IMHO for medium skill level riders (me). Speed (voltage) mode does not have that time lag that a torque (current) mode has so response is instant. And I 'll certainly dig deeper into your experiments. Thanks for all that .

Is it likely that the controller is available direct from siliXcon unprogrammed? Also, I should add that the Perm/ Alltrax package I used, while pretty crude by today's standards, does not use a feedback device although a brushless could emulate that with its feed back loop I suppose. I'm not a EE but have dabbled with EV controls forever.

Just curious if this is possible, within reason. I have an old relationship with Phillipe at EM from 2 decades ago and am trying to rekindle that relationship for both humanitarian and access reasons.

I'm curious about some of the programming used on these bikes. I just got a 2024 pure sport with diaphragm clutch and the 3 mode settings. But I'm used to a bike I built and posted here years ago that uses a Perm brushed motor and an Alltrax 48V 400 amp controller. I am comparing the EM throttle response and general feel to my old 'Digit' I built. The Digit, because its a brushed motor, is by nature always in speed mode, so throttle command is proportional to the motor rpm as opposed to most brushless motors that typically (the EM) operate in torque mode where the throttle command is proportional to the current. My Digit does not have a clutch but throttle response is very crisp and both splats and wheelies are very predictable and easy to control. The EM however feels really mushy response-wise and its harder for me to control since I'm used to speed mode modulation. Has anyone programmed an EM to operate in speed mode? I also build street and road race electric bikes and have done so for many years (I'm old). On street bikes, torque mode is more intuitive but for off road use and on my EM, I think that speed mode would be better. Anyone know what I'm babbling about?

Hey I just got a 2024 Sport as well and am totally digging it, learning to use a clutch. The diaphragm clutch is awesome.

I'm not sure that what I have will solve your problem. My model, as I dig deeper into it, has a number of hard points that are NOT the same as the GG geometry. Mainly, I'm talking motor mount plates and various body related points. I didn't fully copy their frame, only the rake, trail, wheelbase, shock linkage etc, the critical geometry that makes it handle. So if you are converting one of their frames with adapting plates, nothing will match up.

It appears that I'll need to link you to a dropbox; the forum won't accept any CAD files. Bear with me, I'll try to get them uploaded and send you a link later. I think the Scorpa chassis would be best if I saved it as a Autocad 2D or a generic DXF. Do you ever use GrabGad? I could maybe post it there. I have no concerns about copying or ownership. Its a great resource.....

What format do you want? Its a 2013 Solidworks solid model but I can save in more generic format like STEP or IGS. Also, my model is from my own design frame which is very close to GG but I did change a few things. I also have a dimensional flat sketch of a Scorpa frame that I got from Phillipe who later started EM from back in ~2006. But the Scorpa geometry seemed weird so I didn't use it and used GG geometry that I copied from a TXT 200.

What cad format? Its in 2013 Solidworks but I can save it as STEP or IGS for you, which opens in most software.

Some people make an electronic clutch, which I also made and didn't like either. Its a potentiometer that sort of cancels the voltage from your throttle.

If it were mine, I'd definitely use some primary reduction, chain, belt, gears, whatever. That smaller motor is likely a high rpm motor and needs reduction, but I would not use a clutch without gearbox.I tried it. It sucked and added weight. Unless you are a high level rider, its just fine without a clutch once you dial into it.

Well, I hate to burst your bubble but it really doesn't work like you are expecting unless you have low first second and third gears. Also, its worth mentioning that the GG has a roughly 20 pound flywheel for inertia when you dump the clutch, the flywheel effect,, so the inertia of your smaller motor is quite small, which further reduces the 'big hit' you want.

Looks like a nice little motor. So you will use the small primary drive crankshaft gear keyed or splined to the motor shaft , then to the stock GG clutch, right? Then make a inner and outer case with the bearings for the countershaft, correct? You will need an oil seal on the inner motor shaft and on the outer countershaft. Is that the plan? I would be concerned that without a gearbox, if the motor KV and your reduction, primary and secondary combined is not low enough, dumping the clutch will be like dumping clutch in 3rd gear. Or whatever. What I'm trying to communicate is that with a fixed reduction, you have to pick a realistic top speed but if you do that, it would likely be geared too tall to have any decent clutch launch. I tried this with and was like, oh! I didn't work..... Here is my direct drive GG conversion I built before I made my own.

So I take it you intend to use the stock gearbox as well as the wet clutch? What motor are you intending to use?`