walz

Enduro riding. Not seeing modulating it and clutch on trials.

Appreciate the thoughtful insight. -Clake gets in way of clutch but works in really deep ruts w rekluse. -great point on ACU -Loose downhill I’d definitely be on both brakes. -the thumb is an interesting idea. for the keyboard jockys that say I must not know much about riding. I’ve been on the moto tracks for 30 years, guided mountain bikes around the world, run in the A class for enduro and have quickly moved to the top of the advanced trials class in 3 surrounding states. I feel like better rear brake modulation by a different method would be a benefit. Appreciate the positive dialogs.

It’s well positioned. A boot on a pedal just has less modulation than a finger and lever. One benefit would be when hopping in place both ends would be locked. I’ve slipped the back brake and taken a point enough times. Also, when hopping solely on rear wheel (front stays in air) I would have an easier time repositioning with more modulation.

I thought of one problem: using throttle and front brake to lift rear wheel. Still curious to try. Let the flogging start:

It’s a crazy idea and I just wanted to hear feedback. For back wheel hops, wheelies, or even controlling speed in a section I’ve always struggled with rear brake modulation. I tend to favor the front brake. Tempted to split both brakes off front lever. Lets hear why it’s a horrible idea! Maybe I’ll just give it a go and find out for myself.

Not huge, one is a couple tires on end with much less than a bike between them. Maybe 3’ high but the radius kills the TRS so I’d have to wheelie, stuff the front on 2nd tire, then hop the next from a stand still without much traction. Beta clears radius and rolls. I need to ride the beta on bigger stuff but that’s tough when it’s not yours. other obstacle is a 4’ rock to an immediate 90. A floater then a drop is far more hazardous then simply rolling on the beta.

Not a rock. Two features that are put together. Beta rolls over but on my trs I would need to use a completely different tactic. I consistently podium in advance in surrounding states. Plenty to learn but not my first day.

Out of hundreds of obstacles there are two double moves I can do on his foreign-to-me beta immediately but have never gotten on my trs. I like the turning radius and smoother power as well. Ill keep riding them back to back over the next month before buying the next fresh one. Thanks for the input.

I've been enjoying my '17 RR for almost a year. I ride advanced. The Betas have 1" plus of extra ground clearance and that does make the winning difference sometimes for 2 ledges in a row. There is one obstacle I consistently do on my buddy's Beta that I'm not used to and I've never put it together on my TRS. I want to trade my TRS for a Beta: Change my mind!

Betas turn better sure. What do you need a 5th trials gear for? 20' ledges? When filling your coolant remove the one 8mm bolt up front, top of rad moves forward and filling is as easy as any. That said, I'm looking to sell my RR and try Beta.

as a 230# advance rider currently on a 300RR.... I'd recommend a 250 and would ride a 250 myself if given the choice again . Until your a champ level needing to drop the clutch under full power the 250 is a better choice IMO.

Correct, all the '17 TRS Reiger springs measure 140mm so optimal range is 127 to 133mm when compressed with locking nuts. The year old lighter spring that was on my bike still measures 140mm so they do not seem to collapse over time.

So much different info but here is the answer from what I believe to be the horse's mouth. Stew at Jacks Cycles impresses the heck out of me and here is his answer from the words of Raga regarding the TRS/Reiger: 10mm pre-load on the rear spring with a tolerance of +/-3mm. Any more and get a new spring. All brands even with the Reiger have different pre-load base settings. I matched the front springs to the rear (heavier both ends) and it feels balanced. This should yield zero static sag. Ride on!

Thanks everyone for the input.

The first thing I did is read through the TRS manual on that site and the Reiger pamphlet on that site. Nothing about sag in there. The gas gas info you supplied on preload was helpful. Thanks

Well Geez, that's the first I've heard of. Now I'd really like to hear specific setup procedure. I have the 80 spring weight and am 230. Thanks

Ok, my average on research for those bikes is 30 static, 100mm race sag (rider weight). I'll use that for a starting point unless any TRS experts get a chance to chime in.

Fair enough. Nothing in the manual on sag and maybe that's intentional. Hard to imagine not having a good baseline like any moto, trail or even mountain bike! I guess with trials varying wildly in technique this would make sense. Maybe riders with extraordinary balance could use more stored energy from the shock while us mortals may be hindered. Thank you for the reply and I'll bring my tools with me to the rocks.

I am really excited for my bike to arrive next week! Just trying to figure out the setup work before I ride. Do most trials riders set race sag or just 15-25mm static sag? Set race sag at about 30% of travel? Any specific tips for setting up the 17 with Reiger shock? I am bigger, have the stiffer springs and will ride in advanced class at the next meet if that makes any difference in your recommendation. Thank you for your time!

I recently picked up a 2001 315r. I am riding a 12 year old bike because I am cheap. For this reason I did not pick up a new clutch and sure as heck won't pay for Elf oil. At the same time I will not tolerate any clutch drag. Here is my trick that I am rather proud of: Dimple the stock steel plates on a drill press. I used a 5/64 bit and it took about an hour. The clutch also happens to have all cork friction plates. I run Honda oil or the comparable Maxima that I run in all my other Hondas. This worked 100% with no drag even when cold. Still grabs perfect too.