lotus54

I'll try to look at my Explorer and see what colours I see.

Hey, I said it was a rumor, that's why I was asking if anyone else heard anything more. Even the person said 'it looks like' Of course, only time will tell. We have heard these before and while I'm hopeful, I will believe it when I see it.

I left the box in place. I'm not sure it is really required now- but it wasn't getting in the way or anything so I left it. I charged the lithium battery the other day, it was still fine and it had been months since I charged it last.

Yes, that seems obviously something slapped together. That is the original concept enduro bike- as far as I ever head they made just one and I'm told it ran etc (but who knows how well). Loads of really neat ideas, but I'm assuming a LOT of development would be needed to make it a real bike. I heard the latest 2nd hand and don't want to pass along the source, but a lot more reliable than other things I've heard. But it is a Spanish company. mark

I just checked. In the K-Scan, look under the 'Setting' menu. Choose 'Transfer Setting' Set your COM port to whatever the adapter is using. (look in Device Manager for Windows- you know how, yes?) those have to match or nothing will ever work.

Make sure you change the software and 'device manager' to have the same COM port. I don't recall off the top of my head where it is in the OSSA software. But I'll take a look later. I believe Lewisport has newer ECUs avaliable- if that really is the case (I doubt it, but who knows?). Also check the ECU main plug for corrosion (or did you do that already? )

Well, I heard another rumor that OSSA may be back before next winter with 2018 bikes! of course, it is always 'we will see' but this one seems it could have a bit more truth than some. Anyone heard anything lately? Mark

I always thought the USB-Serial (RS232) required electronics- but then wondered if I was incorrect. Searching around, it appears that they are required, but perhaps if no LEDs for activity etc are required then it can be pretty small? (again, just what I am reading on the internet- could be full of it). https://www.lammertbies.nl/comm/info/RS-232-usb.html http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/24190/serial-to-usb-adaptors-types-and-problems I see one on Amazon that claims to have Win7 (and newer) drivers. That seemed to be one of the main issues. But I do recall back in the XP days that many of the USB to Serial converter didn't work well for things that were critical on timing. For instance, some would work for programming a radio- but you couldn't tune it. This was quite some time ago- and most newer ones have USB ports now. And not much to do with OSSA-except for some reason OSSA chose to produce them with old Serial rather than USB. I have no idea why, especially since they are outrageously expensive! https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Adapter-Prolific-PL2303HX-Chipset/dp/B00425S1H8 https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-RS-232-Male-Serial/dp/B00J4N9T9C/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2NSH25B1SA9EKSZT6X2M At least with Amazon if it doesn't work it is easy to return (and not much money). Just some thoguhts. (Canada, does yours work with Win7? maybe you said so and I missed it) mark

I could probably make you a XP HD and send...although I to Canada adds customs stuff. But your would have have some drivers to install for your specific computer. I may be in BC early next week...I'm right across from Victoria. mark

Just to make it easy

Ricavar, I forget where you are located? The cheapest would be to pick up another HD, pop on XP and use the adapter you have with the computer you have. I'll bet that would work. You don't need a large or fancy HD, although a small SSD would speed things up a LOT.

I mean circuitry in the adapter. Have you had any luck with post XP and adapters? We gave up on them at work since they were so flakey after gong to Win7. BUT I did not try it on the OSSA setup, I used XP and a machine with a real serial port. The diagnostic cables I own and use now are USB, not the old type serial. if you found something that works, please post up!

You cannot use HDMI or anything like that. You have to have a WIN7 driver for any USB to serial. I've had issues anyway for a lot of those, even in XP. If you have access to a Dell Latitide, use one of these. I'm sure it will work. http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-e-legacy-extender/apd/430-3115/pc-accessories It has a real serial port and works really well. OR another HD with XP and a proper drive. Belkin made an adapter that worked well. It requires electronics, you can NOT just use a wire. The point about the COM port matching in the hardware and software is very important. Do you know how to set that? Mark

I'm guessing the adapter is your issue. Many of the ones that worked quit working post XP. do you have a computer with a real serial port? (The business class Dell laptops have a 'mini-dock' that has a real serial port that seems pretty effective.) I've had a lot of issues with older software/hardware that is serial and trying to use an adapter (back in my radio tech days). The Dell unit always worked. if you have XP, make sure you have a driver foe the adapter. mark

I seem to recall when I used the factory setup it had a serial connection? . Does yours have that, perhaps with serial to USB? i have a BTWICE one now and no ready access to the old factory setup.

Easiest way to check for spark is to simply pull the cap, install on a good sparking plug, earth the plug metal body and kick it. the software is pretty easy, yes- you plug I to 'A'. It may or may not need an adapter (if I recall, the factory setup came with the old 4 pin connecors and the newer 6 pin connectors. use Kscan. It has a testing section, where you can have it produce spark. Best bet is to pull the plug and connect, then III can see it, but you should be able to hear it even in place. none is that hard, just need to take it one 'section' at a time. i forgot- to take the cap off 'A' see the little slot near the letter you have? Push down on the plastic tab with a small screwdriver or something, then pull the cap out. I use a small pair of needle nose pliers to grab it.

Interesting. But not the 90° Zerk? They do know about that issue. perhaps they ve changd things a bit so O-rings fit in both places? Or maybe just extras? or I put mine in the wrong place...

I put the 'O' rings on the outside of the Dogbone, they have a small chamfer for them to fit into (well, I assumed that was what it was for, otherwise they crush) I added a small shim (washer) between the bold and centre pin- ONLY enough to keep a slight clearance for all the pieces to keep moving when tightened quite firmly. I found locktite doesn't always hold well- especially where a lot of grease is (perhaps) already around and where the zerk could get it and moved. So far this has worked well for me. Perhaps your setup won't need that- a test fit before lubing would probably give a good idea. Does this make it more lucid?

Yes, that is it. If you shim too far- the nipple with hit the frame.

Not a good picture- darn it. But I hope you can see the 90º zerk (I think 1mm thread pitch?) Here is what I did. For that pin that the 90º zerk is going into- there is a bolt on the other side. I put a small washer such that even with both bolts quite tight, there is a just a bit of clearance, so the pin/arms can move well. It doesn't take much. So a washer between the bolt and pin on the left side.

I will take a picture - I'm changing rear tyre, so good time.

Yes, those connectors on the bottom are very much in the line of water/mud. They operate the fuel pump. mine were nicely sealed and clean the times I've checked. BUT certainly high on the regular maintenance like I think.

I don't now recall who was having some odd running issues, but thought I'd post this idea up for anyone now or future. My 2014 Explorer (same as trials with added subframe, tanks, seat etc) had an off-idle 'burble' a couple of times. At around 100 hours, then again around 200 hours. A TPS adjustment/reset solved those. Normally it runs nice and clean from idle all the way to max rpm. No burbling or richness. A few months ago it started again, and nothing seemed to solve it in the 'usual' areas. But I had never taken the main ECU connector apart. All the other connectors on the bike were well sealed and looked good, and the one time I tried it didn't come apart easily- so I left it. well, I did take it apart a few months ago and find some slight corrosion on a couple of pins. I know the current on a lot of these electronics is very small- so a tiny but of extra resistance can goof it all up. Careful cleaning with a fibreglass 'pen' made for such things and a healthy blast of ACF50--and the bike ran perfectly again and is still running great (I'm something like 315 hours now). It is probably time to pull it apart and blast it again. An idea to all, it may be a good idea to pull that connector apart and give it a careful clean/anti-corrosion treatment. Especially if you see odd running that doesn't seem ro have an easy solution. Mark BTW, I ride in a lot of water and mud.

I have a 'colourized' version someplace..

I have a diagram here- I just need to find it. I have a 74 Explorer that is wired up with no regulator or battery. Lights are not very good- but do work. I'll try to find the diagram. (might be the same as above?) mark