lotus54

On my Explorer I needed to raise the radiator just a bit or it would not clear the fan mount. It just wasn't coming out. Fortunately, it is easy to raise, just drain coolant, unclip the lower hose to water pump and push it up a little. The 300 Factory actually looks like a little more room. I fit an 11 tooth countershaft sprocket to the Factory to match the one on my Explorer. It really helped for me and my use. Plus then they react a lot closer to the same. I have a bunch of hours on the Explorer and ride it most of the time, so I don't want to figure it out differently every time. Mark

Every vintage OSSA I've seen has Cotter pins (split pins) there each individually. Safety wire might be easier, but I would probably just fit the cotter pins again.

I'm going and a checker helper.

This was last thursday heading to a two-day Trial in Goldendale, WA (they had a World Round there about 2001) I had a great time- but rocks scare me (I usually ride logs, roots and mud) so I dropped back to Novice. %5BURL=http://s298.photobucket.com/user/lotus54/media/A-I%20trips/Deschutes_SP_DSC00423_zpsbbjvilov.jpg.html%5D%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm256/lotus54/A-I%20trips/Deschutes_SP_DSC00423_zpsbbjvilov.jpg%5B/IMG%5D%5B/URL%5D http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm256/lotus54/A-I trips/Deschutes_SP_DSC00423_zpsbbjvilov.jpg[/IMG]

I installed my 'Super Easy Start' on my 'new' 2014 Factory 300 R. the little battery is strapped along side the Capacitor behind the headlamp- + from the battery goes to the button on the handlebar- other end of the switch goes back down, then to the diagnostics port. - from the battery goes right to the diagnostics port. No charging or anything, only works while holding the momentary button down. This bike started for me pretty easily, but I like the potential trailside troubleshooting capabilities, MUCH easier starting if I were to run out of fuel and easier starting if I don't give it a good kick. I'll try to take pics tomorrow- I STILL never made a diagram but I'll try to get on that. Mark

I understand Lewisport has a jig used in transmission reairs- and I believe have been sourcing parts etc. So far, most stuff seems available (stuff like stickers and some plastic not so easy) Some changes were made to later transmissions- it may be good to see if any upgrades could be made at the same time. Mine at over 330 hours is still working great.

Here is the original bulb. http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm256/lotus54/OSSA/25571c765c56f8b2b28ca6393b2da172_zpswlruyx2y.jpg[/IMG]

Yes, they got back to me and said they have nothing that will work directly. The one I have will work if I fabricate an short pipe. thanks Mark

I ride mud a LOT. (I trail ride very tight stuff all the time). For me, I keep very low tyre pressure, very, very light throttle and lug the engine. Often I'll use 1st gear and tractor. If I'm tired or really slick, I'll site way back so the front tyre is just barely on the ground (I have a real seat). This is quite effective for me (but of course I'd likely get a 3 if in a section). I can do quite well unless the mud gets up over the foot pegs and the higher clearance enduro bikes have ridden through. Then it will just stop if going slowly. (Same in deep snow). All these other guys know way more than I do, but it seems to be effective for me. (Especially since I'm trying to save energy, just get through while not falling and not worried about 'dabs') I was trying to find a vid I've done, but couldn't really find one. this one isn't particularly muddy- but VERY steep and quite slick (wet salal). The guy in front was on an enduro bike, so have the extra weight to deal with (he is a lot better rider than I am). But perhaps my thoughts on low engine speed and no spinning will come through. Again- this just works for me, and perhaps might help in a section were you are going to get a 5 or get a 3 instead.

I did send a message to him. thansk

Anyone have good solutions for a spark arrestor on a Termi? The exhaust doesn't stick out- but the inner (toward center of bike) part is flush. So the type I have won't fit. I suppose I can fabricate a pipe that will go inside the Termi exit and inside the arrestor. (The arrestor I use fits right on the standard exhaust) But I' like to hear if anyone has a better solution. Mark

Yes, that is the same version I'm running. I did try a few different ones on my Explorer.

Here are a couple of documents. 2012 03 26 Ossa TR280i TROUBLESHOOTING ENGLISH.pdf Instructions.pdf

Anyone know which is the 'soft' on the map switch on these? The map loaded doesn't say two different ones in the description like some do- but reported to have that feature. I haven't really had it out enough to figure it out. I never got around to modifying my Explorer to use two maps- but it would be handy (like using one of the maps with 'road' and 'trail' settings) mark

I'm not sure there is a step by step. Did you look at the PDF file included with the software? Perhaps I can get time to take a few pictures and make a step by step. Mark

Heres is the instrument OSSA used on the Explorer. it certainly looks like the same low fuel lamp on my 300 Factory. I didn't see that they sold the lamps separately- but perhaps an email to them? http://www.trailtech.net/digital-gauges/vapor/vapor-accessories/022-pda

I'll have to set it up with the '74 Explorer also

Yes, K-scan give total hours, and some re-setable ones. I use the re-set hours to help keep track of service.

Thanks! It should be lots of fun. I did see a missing bushing and screw on the lower kickstart (common to come loose) and that makes it harder to start also. I think I have a spare around (it looked like something that could get lost)- otherwise I'll get one coming. The TPS needed to be reset again- it was a little off. So far, Ive seen the like to be reset a after a number of hours, then every 100 hours or so. (It has 17 hours).

Well, I now have four OSSAs in the garage. (One is a restoration project). we did some trading and I now have the 2014 Factory 300 that has been talked about a bit. I didn't have much trouble starting it, but I'm going to do my 'super easy start' mod anyway. I'll check the mixture and all that stuff too. Certainly more power than my Explorer, but it is heavier also. I'm not exactly sure how I'll set it up- some sort of 'long range' seat/tank likely the Betas have I think. I'd like to try one of those and see if they fit. Mark

I had to replace the fan itself on mine. Maybe 250+ hours. It had started to make noise when first starting- so I already had one in the garage. of course, I was out on the tail when it failed (bike started steaming) and I had to tow it back much of the way. I think I have a spare relay- but probably a good idea to have one handy. mark

With 'easy start' AAA battery fully charged Push kill button once. take slack out of kickstarter, then give it a VERY healthy kick. Don't touch the throttle! Mine will generally start 1st or 2nd kick from cold, 1 from hot. (With my latest map/fuel mixture setting when cold it has been taking a few kicks, but it runs so well when warm I've left it) that's what works for me anyway.

You may want to run a one step hotter sparking plug (4) I set the TPS and idle for Eric some time ago- but if you have any idle issues at all let me know. Mak

I can show you how to do a setup like mine. If you mess up the first kick- this addition (I call it 'super easy start') makes it easy to start anyway. Plus good for troubleshooting.

I thought the bike was supposed to charge it, but I could easily be full of it. i replaced mine with a rechargeable (after charging the new one). Now I don't worry about it since I have a separate LiPo battery for 'waking it up'