lotus54

This is what Lewisport told me to use (US Importer). I’ve got almost 400 hours on the Explorer with no problem at all. Piston looked excellent, cylinder like it had maybe 20 hours. rings were worn.

I’m sure the Explorer pegs will fit right on. The bike is the same, just cheaper suspension, wheels and the added subframe seat/tank. I use 0-40, remember, it has to lube the main bearings also. I would persponally not use gear oil or ATF. (I’ll go look in the garage and see what I’ve been using the last 400 hours)

I’ve used a number of different types. Silicone with teflon waterproof Belray another waterproof (can’t remember the brand) I didn’t notice much difference. If you ride in the mud a lot, they take a lot of maintenance. If you don’t ride mud/water- they seem to need minimal once lubed initially. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042FG74W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Where did you find the proper connector that plugs into the bike’s diagnostic port? I have the pins, but cannot find the plug. mark

There is another thread on this. Of course, I forget the brand/type I’m using at the moment. I’ll try to find it and update this. note the gearbox oil lubes the main bearings on this bike, so I would make sure to use a good full synth oil and change often.

As mentioned, that is the stock 4T throttle. Mine says ‘Domino’ cast on the bottom. I have no clue if the plastic Domino housing tubes will interchange (I have some around, so I could check some time)

Mine has been very reliable (almost 400 hours now). So far, no issue getting parts (like mentioned, many are standard Trials parts). But I agree it is not worth what it would be if they were still producing them. (Owner still claims to be trying to get it going again- but...)

I second that comment about watching the kickstart bolts. I locktite mine and they seem to stay relatively well. But they still tend to come loose. I’ve broken the linkage, so regular maintenance/inspection is a good idea I think. I’m running a Ti setup with zerk fittings now. One thing I wish they did was run regular bearings with seals and zerks. But probably for most trial uses the factory setup is fine (I ride trails most of the time). I use a filter/funnel for all my fuel. Changing the fuel filter is a pain (the engine has to come out)- and while it doesn’t need to happen very often, I’d like to keep it to a minimum. The filter and fuel pump are common parts. I’ve found about every 100 hours mine have liked to have the TPS reset. Easy if you have the cable and software. I wish BTWICE was still selling them. (Factory ones were ludicrously expensive) I also change gearbox oil often, it also lubes the main bearings. I loosen all the clutch bolts and pop the cover out a bit to drain the last- it seems to work well for me that way. I also measure how much I get out to make sure I get it all. I fit a ‘Super Easy Start’ that I came up with on both of mine. It is good for troubleshooting as well as making it really easy to start. Mine likes a very healthy kick, make sure to take slack out of kickstart mechanism first (like all bikes really) Mine have been really good for me. I have almost 400 hours on my Explorer, although I recently got a Beta 4T to use a bunch of the time to keep from getting quite so many hours on the OSSA. If they were still making them I probably wouldn’t have done that. have fun with it! Mark

On my 2016 4T I just gently kick it over. I was used to kicking my OSSA, which requires a healthy kick- but the de-compressor on the 4T seems to be quite effective and I just push the start lever down fairly slowly. Starts really well. I have no idea how different the older bikes are. Someone told me they used a lot of RFS design and maybe even some parts fit. But I have never looked inside both so no clue if that is a possibility or not. I would hope that gear is different than the newer ones, or I would certainly hope Beta at least had some of those in stock someplace! since it has broken so many times, it certainly seems to be underdesinged! mark

Check the fuel cap breather also. (Since it ran and stopped) Also, from my experience, every 100 hours or so the throttle body sensor should be set and reset. It can make the bike run quite rich if it is not right. mark

I would hook up a 12V battery to the appropriate ports diagnostic cable- this will run the fuel pump and let you know that it is working or not. I have a momentary button on both my modern OSSAs, it works as a ‘super easy start’ and also troubleshooting. Certianly next would be to check connections- but hooking up to the software would be by far the easiest. it will give you errors shown. oh yeah, check that the kill button or wire is not shorted out. mark

I got it back in. Just for anyone else (or if I’m looking and can’t remember Next time) I turned the bike upsidedown (rear suspension/swingarm and Forks were already off). I put the engine in from the left, got the rear mount lines up and put in a loose fitting drift just to keep it in place. Next I moved the front up- carefully moving the fuel hose (don’t want to break that plastic fitting) wires etc. I levered up the frame a little (it is pretty flexible without the engine bolted in). Slowly I moved it so the front mounts lined up. Now to get everything else back together and see how it is with a new piston/rings. Mark

Dang, heck if I Remember the trick I used when I removed the engine. I remember thinking ‘I need to remember how I pulled this out’. Yeah, sure. I recall it is sort of partly sideways, but I can’t remember if the front part or the back part clears the mounts first. It is pretty tight. Anyone that has done it remember?

Does your 300 have the Termi exhaust? I have not tried fitting my Explorer subframe on my 300 factory to see if it clears the exhaust or not.

Make sure to check the COM port on your driver. Then match that. (See my picture)

Seems to me I had to make sure and pick the correct USB ‘port’ also.

I have what I believe is the BTWICE cable. (USB) PM me your email and I’ll send. Mark

Here is what I’m using. This is Win7 and it works just fine- I just connected to my Explorer (of course, the injector is off since the engine is out and it sprayed fuel all over). Hope it helps. mark

I’m trying to get my old diagnostic laptop to boot, still being recalcitrant. But I’ll post my driver info as soon as I do. mark

I’ve heard a couple people said they were going to try to make one- but I don’t know of anyone that has actually done it.

The diagnostic software is certianly still around (I can send you a copy)- the cables are a bit harder to find. I can think of a few things. 1. Do you see any fuel on the sparking plug? If no- then you may have a clogged fuel filter. it is a common type filter/pump. But rather a pain to replace (the engine needs to come out). 2. If you see fuel on the plug, it may have sheared the flywheel woodruff key. The timing is all off then.

If I recall, the early ones used circlips to hold it all together- later ones used bolts. But the bushings were the same size (except as noted).

The part numbers are on the bushes. But I’m pretty sure they are listed on the OSSA forum. I have them here also- but I need to get around to finding them and posting. Oh yeah, after 2015 the ‘middle’ link bushing is larger.

Yes, the bushings are avliable- they are standard parts. I bought them by the box from a bearing supplier. The Ti linkage is still available also (still uses bushes, but has zerk fittings for easy lube).

I think they are VERY well mannered in running- superb for ‘carburation’ (Of course they are FI). Handle very well, and top notch components. Both of mine have excellent build quality. They are very light and responsive. The early linkage isn’t as good as the later ones (durability wise). AT last that is what I see. But I put a lot of hours on my Explorer. It is very similar to the 2016 300 Factory 4T Beta I recently got. (The regular TR OSSA is quite a bit lighter). mark