lotus54

Puget Sound Trialers also have vintage events, all north of you though. http://www.pugetsoundtrialers.com

I never pressure wash- but the riding I do does Basicly the same thing. It is pretty rare to not ride in a lot of mud. The linkage I bought came with zerk fittings, someone on here had fit them to the stock setup. But I wanted something more rugged than the original- so blew the big bucks for fhe titanium setup.

I've replaced loads of bushes, the swingarm pivot pins, bushes and seals and worn out the or pivots. I ride it a lot (I think I'm about 300 hours)- but I trail ride and only occasionally do a trial.

Yes, you need to take the wheel, swingarm and linkage all off. Then take the linkage apart (no need to remove damper) One reason I spent $$$ for the Ti linkage is it has zerk fittings and I can lube every ride. I ride in the mud/water a LOT and that trashed the bushings in a hurry. I got tired of taking it apart all The time. Plus I broke the linkage twice and this is guaranteed not to break. You can see a light mud ride in this picture.

It is pretty easy to pull the gearbox- might not be a bad idea to check it now.

I have an article on the Curnutts from about 1970. They used a floating mid valve, I don't think anyone else did. Seals are standard avalaible stuff, and they can still be sent in for rebuild. I talked to the guy that used to work with Charles (related also?) and he can even make them up. I am missing one form my GPII. (Long story, but I have it back) and need another. At a standstill they felt like they didn't have any rebound damping, but they worked wonderfully out riding. Way better than the Betors.

I had Curnutts on two of my old OSSAs (stiletto and GPII Phantom) For a MX/desert bike they are great. I'm not sure how well they would work for trials.

Yes- certainly look like Explorer forks. I changed mine to Marzocchi forks- much, much nicer. (Lewisport had a deal on some new ones) I've had mine apart, I don't recall any issue with the clickers. But they didn't do much either. One leg is compression, one is rebound. does it have an Ohlins on the rear?

Those look much like the forks from my Explorer. What does the slider look like?

Mike starts really well now 99% of the time. I fit a small Lithium batter that I activate with a momentary button. Hold it down and the fuel pump runs and ECU is 'awake'. Nice if you run out of fuel also. Yes. It does still require a healthy kick

If like mine, the TPS needs to be set and 'set to' the ECU. You need cables to do it. I run a one step hotter plug, seems to work much better. Where are you located?

I run mine to te handlebars- and still can get a bit of oil out of it after a long, high rpm hill (I trail ride mostly) I'm going to install a small tank with house out top and bottom, then put inline. I have a 2014 and run 450cc oil

If over full it can come out the breather hose. Even if correct 'new spec' amount, the breather hose needs to be extended.

It looks very complete. I ditched the Amal and put on an OKO from Mid-Atlantic Trials. Cheap and works wonderfully (kept the Amal in a box). If the engine/trans is good, then bearings, cables and perhaps sealing the fuel tank and could be a great runner. Mark http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/OSSA.html

Did you check your crank seals when it was apart? I've had a couple of old OSSAs with bad crank seals, especially the dry side. Mark

As an original machine, I hope you can bring it back to life rather than part it. Everything is avaliable and are great vintage bike. I ride my 74 Explorer from time to time- it is very good, except the brakes! (I bought my Explorer from the original owner also)

It has been awhile- I probably installed the software first, then drivers, then plugged in cable. I'm running it with XP. Mark

From appearance, that USB connector looks the same as the cable I have. Finding the correct connectors ( without buying 1000 of them) has been more challenging.

The software is free for the OSSA. It is really something you need to have (or a local dealer has) to keep the bike running correctly. At least in my experience. It seems mine likes to have the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) 'reset' to the ECU about every 100 hours or so. I don't know if the TPS starts to drift, or perhaps other variables in the system (like connectors getting dirty and increasing resistance). Also the ECU stores errors, like high current draw for fuel pump (generally a sign the filter requires replacement). To properly change idle sped with stock throttle body you need the software/hardware (I have a BTWICE the olle body that allows idle speed adjustment anytime. I've never needed it, but figured if the bike had an issue way up in the mountains that feature could be well worth the cost) I really like the injection, but I aware of possible issues and required extra tools. Mark

Yes, we have been talking. Too bad I don't have a scope anymore...might be able to borrow a scope meter in a couple of weeks. I had a hard time actually buying the proper connectors. (Bring your bike over and we can ride too! - but they probably won't let you push the bike across- my Explorer is plated, so I could ride it on the ferry) Mark

How did you take it apart?

I ran the bike again, checking hoses and radiator to see if they all got hot. They did NOT! So I got a new waterpump, installed and all is good. It seemed to run 85-90c idling and reving on the stand. I did not check after riding more, but all seemed good. Mark

Just a note. The setup came with zerks, but the rocker middle 'joint' had a straight zerk and is jot accessible. the dealer made it good and I have a proper 90° zerk now. Thanks TTMoto

I have a little 'burble' at very small throttle openings I only have ever had if the play was really knackered or the TPS needed reset. (Runs great everywhere else and mixture appears great on the plug- running SSDT Hard map) So I decided it would be a good time to just check everything anyway ((290 hours). Reeds good, new sparking plug Idle right, TPS set to .6V and set to EC Air filter clean Cleaned sensor in lower airbox I did see a little corrosion on the ECU connections (dang it!). Attempting to clean well. That could be my issue. BUT I wanted to test the injector to see what the pattern looked like. When I do the injector test in the software, it just clicks the injector, the fuel pump is not running so no fuel comes out. Any ideas? Mark

Not exactly on topic- but does anyone have an explanation on what the different maps that are available do? Some seem self-explanatory, but others that have things the ++ at the end. Perhaps the 'road' 2nd map is extra rich?