lotus54

What are others seeing as a 'up to full temp' coolant temperature in the software? I never really noticed before, but I was getting some off idle 'burbling' I've never gotten (except when the TPS needs setting) and thought perhaps it was goofed up. I saw 130C - fan would come on and go off, no boiling or any other issues. I didn't measure the actual coolant temp in the radiator, but it certainly seemed normal. Does it really run that hot? (I have not found anything in the manuals that state running temp yet) Mark

Two of my vintage OSSAs had bad crank seals. Easy to replace once you get the primary drive apart"

Ok- not wonderful, but actually quite functional. I have not added the taillamp/lisc plate holder yet. I'm going to use one like on my AJP. I may try another slightly different method- once piece sides and weld the top on instead. (maybe I'll get some more practice welding sheet aluminum and it will look better also)

Certainly the software is avaliable, getting the cables is more difficult right now it seems. I got some from Trials and Tribulations that wokrs great. What is your location?

I have an OKO on my 74 Explorer (same as MAR), on a 72 MAR I had and even on a 200 GasGas EC. They work very well and great price. The OSSA kits from MidAtlantic were complete and easy. Sorry, can't help a lot on your Mikuni, just the usual. Figure if rich or lean, and adjust appropriate circuit to suit.

Here it is in progress. I'm not done yet, and I think I can make it look a lot nicer before I'm done, BUT I've never made anything out of sheet aluminum before, and taught myself TIG (me ell, sort of). My biggest problem is feeding the rod. I don't have the knack of sliding it through my fingers so get all goofed up after I'd fed some in. Oh- plus I don't know what I'm doing! HA! But it is light and actually pretty sturdy. I'm thinking some vinyl sheet will make it look better.

Certainly! But cut me slack for being a TIG neophyte. (I did weld some aluminum cans together, but it was pretty ugly!)

Since there doesn't seem to be anymore rear mudguards or side panels anywhere around right now- I'm fabricating a once pice setup from aluminum. I've never done this sort of thing in aluminum (I have in fibreglass)- so,it is sort of a learning process. I made up a template, then cut the three pieces from aluminum sheet. Now I'm welding the side panels to the mudguard. They both use the two side screws by the end of the seat, and overlap. Might not be the best looking (at least this first try)- but I'm hoping will work well. My mudguard broke and I have it pieced together (plus a new spare, but don't want to waste it) The bike is just so darn fun- I sure hope they really do start producing again. But I'm preparing to keep it going myself it need be. Mark

Since I will flush the old and install new lube evey ride I don't think it makes so much difference anymore.

I've been using a moly high pressure grease, I used to use a silicon with Teflon grease, but this seems to hold up a lot better and repel water better.

Took the Explorer out yesterday, the new linkage worked great. I'll give it some grease to clean out any gunk and will be ready to go. Expensive, but a great setup. Mark

There is nothing on the OSSA web site (even 'news' seems to be gone) and I asked some people that really should know--head the rumours but nothing positive. Is there something more than just a rumour? (I would really like it to be true- and certainly could be- but I've heard a lot of things...)

Correct- drains from top to bottom- wt breather hose normally would not move fuel (but probably will have some fuel in it when both tanks are full. Yes, the fuel cap is awful.

The vacuum I mentioned was only to assure all the air was out. Normally the fuel will push the air up through yet breather hose into the upper tank- that means the lower is full (no vacuum under normal operation) On mine that part you mentioned leaked- so I tightened it up put some safety wire on the hose. Sounds to me as if there is either a bad , or the fuel sensor is bad. Yes, I think you could send the ECU and throttle body in for a pretty close setup (and update firmware) Of course it is better to do it in the bike. You could,measure the resistance across the TPS now. Then try adjusting the idle and see how it is. Not the right way to do it- but if you measure first, you can always set it back. Yes, I recall now your location etc. The system is pretty simple, but really wants to be set up correctly to work right. When correct, it will fire up in one or two kicks from cold, idle perfectly right from cold and run cleanly all the way up. Mark

trail Tech does have a tech support email.

I think it really only holds a bit under 2-gallons. Try this, Unhook the line coming off the lower tank fri the upper tank (by the fuel filler) Put a brake bleeder type vacuum pump on it (with appropriate reservoir) Put a slight vacuum on that line, the slowly fill the upper tank. Stop filling once fuel comes out of the lower tank breather you are connected to. NOW e lower tank is really full. Hook the line back up,and slowly full the upper tank. In real life you should not need to do they, but since you have some issues, that will alleviate not getting it full.. Where are you located? (I think your told me, but I forgot)

I own an Explorer, done a shrt ride on the X-Trainer and ridden with a guy (probably similar riding skills) with a Freeride. I looked hard at the Freeride before getting my Explorer. The starter with no kicker scars me. Especially the old 2-stroke KTM style (I've had KTMs) It seemed to do pretty darn well on the tight stuff- not like the OSSA, but better than the full enduro bikes. I really liked the cross trainer. I would have kept the OSSA and used the beta for faster stuff, but still ok on the really tight stuff. Maybe lowered it a bit- I'm not short but I've gotten to like low bikes and I don't want to ride fast any more. So the extra suspension is a waste. None of those will be like the OSSA. 1. A huge weight difference. 2. Flywheel and manuverability 3. Balance and control. The OSSA excels at those. Not so hot going faster. I recently got an AJP 3.5 'Ultrapassar' (I figure that means you get passed a lot) It has aboth the same max HP as the OSSA,mount certainly not the bottom end. Handles very well, quite good suspension for what I want. Lighter than the PR4 and lower, but full sized wheels. Supurb fuel mileage (75MPG recent ride) It isn't as good as the OSSA in slow tight stuff, but probably as good as the Freeride. Weighs more than the Freeride. $$ is considerably less. My OSSA has been quite reliable- but I do all the maintenance myself and certainly understand your concerns. One reason I got the AJP was to put less hours on. The OSSA. I may have gotten the Beta, except of the cost. (Just retired so don't want to spend a lot) Also consider a Beta trials bike with ling range kit. I was told the new 4-stroke is quite light. The Montesa trials also comes with a seat (fuel?) but weighs as much as the OSSA. 4-Ride looks cool, but weights I saw approached 200lbs Not sure any of that helps.

You can test the injector with the software

Also make sure you don't have a bad wire to the kill button. If someone is near you that has the diagnostics cable/software you can test the spark, fuel pump etc. and look for error codes.

Oh- the front pin has a zerk fitting also, so easy lube for all but the swingarm bearings.

I installed my new Ti linkage today. It fit perfectly, slid right together and no issues. My only disappointment is it still uses the bushing setup rather than needle bearings. But with easy way to lube- I can just pump some fresh grease in (getting rid if the old gork) every ride. So they will probably last a very long time. AND I have a box of them. I have just bounced it in the shop, but I'm sure it will be great.

The clutch is mineral oil, so I doubt it would make any difference between brands. Mine was pretty light, VERY light since I installed a Clake 2 (it has a spring assist clutch) What year Explorer? I have a 2014 and I know they did change the clutch though the years.

Note that the oil inspection window is not really accurate. I believe more oil is recommended even for older models now. The clutch is mineral oil on my 2014- I would expect that one to be also. Make sure the lever has a little play before touching the piston. If too tight it can cause problems. If you want to sell the Explorer parts let me know. Mark

The seller got me the missing part. It was not his fault, since it was drop-shipped. But he made darn sure I got it! I have not had time to install (working on my new AJP and a customer bike) but will report as soon as I do. It looks very good- it does have bushings rather than needle bearings- but with zerks I can just flush the old gunk out and have fresh grease in there every ride. Should work well. Plus the lifetime guarantee against breakage. Mark

The 4RT is as heavy as my Explorer, without the 'long distance' comfort. I would certainly consider one though- friends that have them like them. For what I've seen, the OSSA build quality is at least as good. Really. I don't have $10k to blow at his point in time (just retired) and the OSSA is working Superbly for me. I like the response, balance etc. But if I get another trials based bike the 4RT will be high on the list for my use. (Although it would require a LOT more work to plate here- unlike the OSSA, which was easy)