lotus54

Wow! I'm surprised it came loose. When I pulled my gearbox to replace a spring, those took quite a bit to get loose. Hope it all works out.

Yes, 3 cell LiPo http://www.amazon.com/Turnigy-1300mAh-20C-Lipo-Pack/dp/B0072AEKY8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 And starter button http://www.amazon.com/Technologies-12-0215-Style-Electric-Switch/dp/B007GLUJRU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 I'll make up a wiring diagram, but super easy. I put the battery under the seat, but certainly could be up by the handlebars or something I left the factory Easystart etc. installed. This is in addition. Also would,be useful on huge trail if you had some issue, hit the button and can tell if the fuel pump is running.

I've made a new addition to my OSSA (2104 Explorer) The AAA Rechargeable batt (inside the factory Easystart) gave me some issues on a ride, so I hooked up LiPo battery and it worked great. But I didn't want to leave it in all the time, so I installed a KTM style start button. Wired it so the LiPo battery could apply power to the Diagnostics port. This runs the fuel pump for a moment and 'wakes up' the ECU. The bike starts first kick cold or hot. The LiPo battery is quite small. I'll get some pics etc. working on getting more connectors, but just used the 'dummy' plug with some appropriate pins. Mark

I looked at the pictures, and perhaps the Termi won't even fit on the Explorer? Anyone ever tried it? It appears that it may extend where the subframe is located on the Explorer.

If your clutch is stuck (pretty common)- tie the lever to the bar and let it sit. If that doesn't work, then start the bike and warm it up- then hold the clutch in, push the bike a bit so you can slide it I to gear. Go about 10mph and stomp on the brakes, while holding in the clutch.

Didn't someone post the numbers? I have them all- I'll try to get them tomorrow. I may have some pics of replacing them also. I was going to do a video- but was out of time to get something setup. The bearing puller I put the link to makes it really easy

I've taken them out various methods. If desperate, you can crush one- get it out, then drive the other out with appropriate pipe/socket etc. Warming up the swingarm helps, so does some penates riding fluid. I've been using a bearing removeal tool for quite awhile. It wasn't that much and makes it super easy. (Slide hammer, expanding 'shoe') I'll have to see what brand, Mark Like this (I think that price is just a collet-) http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Bearing-Removal-08-0501/dp/B007GR4POW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463089422&sr=8-4&keywords=blind+hole+bearing+puller+set

I've had a rock get stuck between the rear of the pedal lever and the frame.

For me, I need to reset the TPS about every 100 hours.

I'm getting an ' Drive Circuit Open' error P1611 Everything seems to work Anyone know what circuit t It referrs to?

I have info also. Note the later 2015 bikes have a 20mm centre rocker shaft. I bought a box of the other bushings. Mark

Yes! Keep me posted!!!

The manual shows some special,tools to remove the crank.

Yes, it should run excellent bottom to top. No hesitation ever, anywhere.

I have all the replacement parts, but I'm working on a new design that will allow zerk greasing and (hopefully) needle bearings. Plus I'm looking into more robust material since I've broken two dogbones and a rocker. (The Explorer is a bit heavier, plus I wear a pack, plus I need to loose 15lbs). If you have any interest - PM me and I'll keep you in the loop. No clue on cost or weight at this point, (I guess with enough $$ weight could go down). I don't hear many people complaining, so it must be the use I give it. I keep the bushings well lubed and replaced. (Ok- the first broken dogbone probably was my fault) Mark

I forgot, you can get a 'wash kit' from the KTM dealer that has a plug for the quick disconnect fitting that is in the main line between the tanks.

If someone sees a used Termi for sale at a good price, please let me know. (I can't afford a new one!)

I'm guessing a wire jacket has been rubbed off and it is grounding. No float, but perhaps some corrosion could cause issues. I can't remebr offhand if you can unplug from the sensor- but if so try that first. I don't find it all that useful- I've had it come on when I had loads of fuel left. The trick is to make sure you get both tanks full. A couple of ways to do that- one is to pull the breather hose off the bottom tank, fill until fuel comes out. Other is to fill it, then ride the bike around a bit, with loads of bouncing to get any air pockets out. I carry a litre of fuel along on lots of rides- even though I've only needed it on one very long ride. I've gotten 60 miles easily before- but since no way to see how much is left... Also, make sure your TPS has been set, and I do it evey 100 hours or so. If the bike starts to run a bit rich, that is the first sign. (At least on mine). I'm pretty picky on how it runs, I don't like the 'burble' off idle and whe it is right it runs nice and clean.

I have done a number of novice and some intermediate on my OSSA Explorer. Of course it is much lighter and more narrow focused than the Randonee. Heck- just go do it and have fun.

That is not good (missing bolt) Are you referring to the two that hold the throttle plate to the throttle shaft? If that is gone, I'd see if it is sitting on he reed valves (if you are lucky) Getting the reed block off is a bit tricky for a college of the bolts. I have the BTWICE throttle body in mine, nicely nade and allows higher idle without resetting TPS. (I've never needed to do that yet)

Yes, put a light on the other side of the tank/screw. Use a thin screwdriver to hold it toward the front. ( the light will make it a lot easier to see where the screw hold is located) I'm looking into putting. 'pop-pin' instead for a quick release.

The lower (main) tank has a pretty phoney setup for venting - well in my opinion. It can work, but certainly could be a lot better. See my other post how I had to doctor mine up to stop leaking. I think I glued it Into place finally. I don't like the top tank fuel cap either. I've lost it a couple of times and it tends to leak. I finally put part of a nitrile glove to seal it, and ran a 'T' with a one way breather. That works pretty well. I may be that way in July, if you havnt figured it by then I'll try to bring a computer and cables to check it out. The newer software works better, but there are two Versions of hardware. The older ones won't take the new software. I think Lewisport had ECUs now and that could be something for the future.

Yes, as loonal describes. That lower one should not leak- I had to do some work to mine to make it not leak, and safety wire the hose on.

Don't forget to check with Adrian at Lewisport http://www.lewisportusa.com Phone call seems most effective. Mark

It is a bolt on, no need to bleed. I had to make a special wrench to take the bolt off- or pull the swingarm and service all the bushings, change the brake pedal at the same time. I just took and old socket and welded a rod in the appropriate place for a tool.