...but you can pump it up again yes? That sounds like a leak in the system. I'd try a rebuild kit for the master cylinder first. On an older bike they're usually due for replacement. Before you do though make sure your bleeder valve is snugged properly as that can bleed pressure too.
Yes. Will do on the master cylinder front when I get paid, thanks
10/40 is the same as 11/44, if you want to lower it more stick the standard 42 on the back. As Betabonkers said, 9 is too small for the front, bigger on the back is a better way to go.
I went back to 10/44 today from 11/44, much better, I've fiddled with it enough. I'm not going to go to 9/52 as I was advised on the training day, too low for the 200 I reckon. I know some people say that 10/44 is too low, but I'm sure it will be fine for my beginner level. It also brings 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear into play. I'm happy with the gearing like this, and if I need more momentum I can always go up a gear this way. I spent 30 quid on the 44, I haven't got the change to spend on a 42.
Hmmm is your rotor bent? A bent rotor will slowly push the caliper open so when you first pull the brake it has to take up the slack. A small leak will show up as braking pressure that slowly decreases while the lever is held. A worn seal in the master cylinder will feel similar.
Air in the line will make the brake spongy.
If you hold the lever in once pressure is built does it stay or does it slowly get mushy?
The bike did land heavily on the brake side during the last trial I went to, so could be from that. You pull the lever in, the pressure slowly gets mushy. I was dragging the front brake practising turns today and after a couple of minutes doing so there was no brake whatsoever, the pressure had gone.
Yeah the glue between the pads just fixes the cold stick. The filing and polish of the tabs is what gives the clutch a progressive engagement. I know it's a pain to do but well worth it. Being able to have the engine in the heart of the powerband while feeding just enough to the rear wheel makes all the difference. Especially on the smaller bikes.
Did the mod again last night, the tab part this time. Worked a treat today, didn't stall with the clutch in so well happy.
I've got a problem with my front brake. It's been like this for about two weeks. It worked fine for a while, then all of a sudden you lose all pressure. If you squeeze it a couple of times the pressure comes back. I've bled the brake, taken the brake pads out and cleaned out inside the caliper but the problem persists. There are some new levers on there now, maybe I haven't got them adjusted correctly?
Something of this nature happened to a speed way/ flat track venue if memory serves, can't remember where. The governments response to the petition is poor, apparently it's discrimination against the new occupants to sign a waiver? Signed it
Flicking the bike doing a 180 in the air to turn- that's pretty cool. Also landing side ways off a drop off landing both wheels at the same time... Hold my beer...
standard is 11/42, I've got 11/44 on there. I'll live with it a bit and try slowing the bike down with the clutch if needed in sections. I can't blame the bike for poor technique
Thanks. I think I just need to learn how to ride the clutch in low speed situations. They had set up some fairly tight sections yesterday and in first gear clutch engaged the bike was a bit too quick and kept stalling. I do have a 10 I could put on the front instead of 11, but I found with that set up you lose too much momentum and you get more wheel spin if that makes sense?
I would be concerned about milky oil in the clutch as it may be a faulty waterpump seal and possibly the water is causing your clutch issues, I did the clutch mod to my EVO last year as it was sticking when cold but on one occasion it did as yours did and stuck when hot with the clutch pulled in, I stalled the bike and restarted and it worked fine for the rest of the day,
After the clutch mod not only is it no longer sticking but the gear change is much lighter and easier.
Steve,
I really do need to replace the clutch case, I've done a repair on the original magnesium one but it's still a porous material and as you say, milky oil is a concern. Unfortunately I've been put down to 7 hours on my zero hour contract, so can't afford to do much at the moment. The bike stalled every time I stopped more or less yesterday, with the idle turned up too.
Did you just clean out the glue between the friction pads or did you do the whole mod filing and polishing the ends of the tabs? If there's a bike that would benefit most from a smooth clutch it's probably a little 125.
It's a 200, haha, but it could still benefit from a smooth clutch as you say. I only did the glue between the pads, it did improve the clutch for a while but now it's gotten worse again. I'll do the rest of the mod, thanks
9/52 is ridiculously low Betas aren't high in 1st and 2nd as standard .As regards stalling with the clutch in it sounds like it needs the clutch modded as described on the Beta Clutch Fix post on the Beta forum . Trials is the most skilful of all motorbike disciplines,don't expect too much too soon,respect to you for having a go .Some lessons from someone like Steve Saunders would be a good idea
Hi, I thought it was a bit on the low side too, the instructors were running similar gearing on their sherco 125s, but they are different bikes altogether. I've attempted the clutch fix, filing between the tabs. I need to get a new clutch case really as I did a repair job on the magnesium case. The oil still goes milky during running- I do change the oil monthly too. I'll take the plates out again when I replace the case and give them a clean if need be. I have put new levers on the bike, maybe the adjustment isn't quite right.
I'll have to save up for Steve Saunders. Trials is harder than it looks, sections are harder to ride than they look- but I still have fun riding
went to a local training day today. Throttle was fine, no complaints. None of my crashes involved using too much throttle, haha.
I was told my bike is too fast again, and to go to a 9/52. I kept stalling in first gear all the time, she'd even stall with the clutch all the way in?
EFI bikes seem to run though, ossa have even a got a 2 year warranty on theirs and reports from 4rt owners seem to be positive. FI will continue to be developed, hopefully with owner access to diagnostic equipment. A lot of companies still use carbs and you have a lot of choice. So what's the problem?
My first trial back in January 2014 my score was 149, nearly a year later in December 2014 I managed a score of 22
Your score will get better, you'll learn loads in the first year, your confidence will build and your technique will improve.
As for going up hills, sometimes less throttle is better than too much, as beginners we tend to think we need more power then we do to get up the hill, which is one of the reasons the front end comes up.
That's awesome progress! Thanks for the advice and encouragement
I think we could all do with a bit of dutch courage time to time. I wonder if smoking a pipe or a cigarette helped them too? haha, love old footage and photos of the flat cap days
Bike with V5 maybe done a few road trials, SSDT, SCOTT etc.
Bike no V5 done a year of club trials
Pay your money take your choice?
Not necessarily, all I am saying is it's best to have either a V5 or a receipt of purchase if they are the first owner. My bike has the V5 and I doubt it's been to the SSDT or the SCOTT. A year of club trials can be hard on a bike too depending on the owner
Fitted the quick action throttle this morning. Had a go on it going slow and it's fine, better in some ways cause I didn't stall the engine as much as I usually do- easier to keep revs up if that makes sense.
The real acid test will be going up hills, I'm going to a practice day on Saturday so should give it a full work out. Feels better so far
Just trying to get some new grips on now, like trying to wash a cat!
Good luck with the snow storm Dan. We're supposed to be getting snow and cold weather by thursday over here, probably no where near as bad as what the US is getting, but we like to make mountains out of molehills haha
Since this one is classed as an easy trial the middle route was equivalent to easy route or sportsman route in a club competition. So the same sort of difficultly as the last one I completed. Just felt very nervous on the day and it effected everything else. Well, the only way is up from here I'm feeling positive. Next time no stress, no worrying over points, just fun
Uh balancing the front on something will help you get the feel but you really have to try it on a hill. Slippery is the best centering practice. Riding on a sheet of ice really lets you know when you're not spot on.
Will do probably mid week, I'm lucky that a farmer will let me use his land. A couple of acres worth of grassy and woodland hill climbs and descents. Riding the bike it feels like the more you relax and try to balance the way you would walking or standing the better it feels, if that makes sense.
The smile says it all.....it`ll get better only 4 trials it`s not easy but take your time your obviously determined and not a quitter good luck.......
Thanks I think I must be some kind of masochist, haha
The smile is priceless!
The most common problem I find with new riders on an uphill is leaning too far forward. This is a case where centering front to back is not always what it seams. What a beginner will usually do is big blast of throttle and weight over the bars to keep the front end down. Bad idea. Weight too far forward unweights the rear wheel when it needs it most. Go out on a non-slippery day and try two modifications to your technique.
Hi Dan, thanks for your advice, your posts on centering have been really helpful too on other threads. Unfortunately everything is slippery at the moment, but getting used to the bike sliding around isn't a bad thing. Points 1 and 2 I'll keep in mind and experiment next time out practising. I could balance the front wheel on a step at home to practice the body positioning in the mean time. In answer to you and dadof2 about 3.5 in the rear tyre. And thanks for the advice about dabbing, another thing to experiment with. And you're right about the turning, pictures are great at capturing faults. So I've put my weight to the inside of the turn? By bending my outside knee and arm it will change where the weight is? Thanks
Thanks dadof2 I'll try bringing the handlebars back as suggested to see if it makes a difference
I'm feeling positive. Next time no stress, no worrying over points, just fun 
Quick Or Slow Action Throttle On A 200?
in Beta
Posted · Edited by hrmad
Yes. Will do on the master cylinder front when I get paid, thanks
I went back to 10/44 today from 11/44, much better, I've fiddled with it enough. I'm not going to go to 9/52 as I was advised on the training day, too low for the 200 I reckon. I know some people say that 10/44 is too low, but I'm sure it will be fine for my beginner level. It also brings 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear into play. I'm happy with the gearing like this, and if I need more momentum I can always go up a gear this way. I spent 30 quid on the 44, I haven't got the change to spend on a 42.