Hi, you are correct re gear selection. Vast majority of sections are ridden in same gear. If you're ever going to fluff a gear change you can guarantee it will be mid section. It can be needed eg drop a gear after hill climb for remainder but rarely and more likely at higher level.
Rear brake is used a lot in trials to control speed and smooth things out. It's a technique that needs practice
Good starting point for bars is to look at the bike from the side, follow the line of the forks and position them so the grips would be on that line, levers usually around 30° experts often have them flatter for techniques when on back wheel but that's beyond me!!
Have to balance out financial side too. Up to you if you want to justify paying cash or needing finance, Beta should just need routine servicing TRS depends on how its been maintained and ridden, bearings linkeages etc. Even needing a set of tyres adds up quickly.
Some do start on a 300 and cope well.. My brother in law at 63 started on a beta 200, everyone says it's perfect for a new starter.. But he tried my 250 vertigo and loved it so bought it off me. some said it was way too much bike but he did better and has come on quicker on that. Be good if you could try the TRS
I had a 2018 250 trsRR, very nice bike, more "snappy" than 250 beta but v nice bike to ride, great brakes and suspension. Felt very p!anted, tried a 300, tons of lovely low end torque and great for an expert but it would of easily got away from me. Is the one you're looking at a RR or a one. You could also look at adding a base gasket. Side by side if they were same price/condition the beta would get most peoples recommendation in your situation.
Sometimes you don't have the luxury of buying the perfect bike, but if you plan on keeping it long term then the newer beta also makes sense.. It will always be able to do anything you want it too, extra spec of factory model is a bonus
Wouldn't recommend the 300 as a starter bike.250 beta perfect in terms of power delivery. Factory has better brakes/suspension. I would recommend making sure it has a black tube slow throttle under the grip. The TRS is a lovely bike but the 300 is a lot more "feisty"
Try tytrials.com they have parts diagrams for tlr 200, not certain which part you need but may be helpful. Maybe try feked.com too if you haven't already
By larger do you mean the pitch? Was the old chain a 428, its stamped on the link. Which sprockets/ size did you buy. I run 520 chain with talon sprockets 10tooth front and rear is a Talon 214 48tooth 520
Cant comment on 4rt but I've had 3 beta 4ts. Beautiful engine, the 300 pulls like a tractor, from p!onking along right through rev range and in any gear. 4stroke is a marmite thing so love them some don't.
Factory much better due to better suspension/braking, personally i always fit an amal 80/200 throttle as i find the standard too fast. Bikes grips v well but you do need to ride different to 2 stroke. As mentioned above, less blipping and more of a steady throttle. If you add a bosi arrow silencer the sound is fantastic, not needed and expensive but v nice. Never had any need to adjust valve clearances or even to remove carb. Starting from hot or cold is fine once you get the nack.
Sounds like me! I get bored of modern bikes and keep going back to the old one. I had a RR actually, back in 2018, the new oneR is v different. Watch this space, give it 12 months ill be tempted back to a beta 4t
I also prefer my twinshock, Honda TLR, just makes me smile. However as i get less young it's becoming harder at certain venues. So it's back to a modern bike for some trials. Had beta 4ts and a beta 250(non factory) in the past. Leaving aside my love of 4 strokes, i found the beta easy to ride, smooth power but nothing special (i dont NEED special as I'm not a special rider, just having fun). Poor back brake and clutch.
Tried a sherco but too sharp for my liking, had a vertigo dl250 recently and it was excellent in every way but sold it to a family member when I wasn't using it as he preferred it to his beta 200. I tried his 200 and didn't like it at all. Just personal opinion but compared to vertigo it just felt like a step backwards. I prefer more low down torque, 200 felt too revvy to me, same way i don't like a 125.
Now I have a TRS 250 one R not the RR. Love it! Power is so smooth clutch is a dream so are brakes suspension etc. Feels very planted and easy to steer, fairly light feeling front end but not overly so. Maybe a good rider could fault it or want the sharper RR but I'm sticking with this bike
Only things "old" in a trick bantam are the engine casings, barrel and a few other internals! Rest is all brand new. Not saying that's wrong same goes for my c15. Trick bantams perform very well
Later fantic engines had reed valve but not sure what year from and whether the 200 ever did. You can see the mounting on the inlet
Ive had 3 4ts and never had one bit of trouble. Never needed to adjust valve clearance or clean carb. Service/oil change is easy and i always found them easy to start, hot or cold. If you like a fast throttle stick with the standard or replace with an amal 80/200. Really softens throttle response. Cam on carb has 2 holes just need to put the cable nipple in the one that puts the cam at its biggest diameter(rear one) The low tractable power/torque is great, just pulls and pulls
Definitely agree re getting 200 or 250. 125 more than capable bike but does need more from rider to get it up over and through. Try to get a ride on a few different models to see which suits. Once its moving you wont really feel the weight difference but different suspension etc makes different bikes feel different.
I tried a 250 sherco when first started and found it way to flighty, for me, beta much softer power delivery. You can always make sure you have a slow throttle on. The lightest feeling bike I've had which in my incapable hands just felt so easy to ride with icredible suspension steering and brakes is a vertigo 250 dl12. This model has the softer power map and flywheel weight. However be ready for lots of people saying they aren't reliable.
My brother in law started at 63, bought a 200 beta then few months later tried my vertigo and went straight out and bought one instead of the beta. He finds it much easier to learn on and has no issues with it being too powerful.
Falcon and Rockshocks make rear shocks for the tlr(they are longer than many other twinshocks) progressive front springs are available along with new stanchions if the chrome is pitted. Oil capacity is 295 ml per leg.
There is a company in Spain HFS suspension who make a range of options, from progressive springs with pre load adjustment to air cartridge systems. Ive just fitted one to mine. Quick and easy to fit, the difference is night and day. Price is very reasonable, ordering etc was very easy.the only point id be aware of is the HFS fork caps only fit original tlr stanchions.. The replacement ones you can buy come with fork caps but have a different thread pitch.
Having owned both i will say they are completely different and its simply down to what you like.
I had a very nice well rebuilt 240 fantic. If it has just been rebuilt you shouldn't need to worry about things like piston availability, believe there are pattern ones anyway. Other parts including reproduction plastics etc are available. About as competitive a twinshock as you can get, rode great steared well, brakes ok ish if relined with softer compound. 240 engine likes to be revved and has plenty of power. Quite a tall feeling bike, even with footpegs altered. I'm 6'2 and always felt high up. Despite not being able to fault it I just didn't like it. Never actually enjoyed it. I
TLR, love it, but i prefer 4 strokes. Footpegs done, parallel yokes trials cdi from tyoffroad, high lift cam and kevlar clutch plates all help. This is where the decision is a personal one. I love the look of the Honda, the sound and the low down 4 stroke plonk. It still has enough power for most things unless you want to fire it up a cliff and need instant power when you drop the clutch(i dont!) It just makes me smile. No issues with parts but reliability is excellent anyway. Front forks need, at least, progressive springs as the front end is quite "dead" I've just bought an air cartridge system from HFS suspension in Spain but yet to test it.
The bikes are so different you really need to try and get a ride on each to see what you prefer.
Ty 80 was and still is a brilliant bike. So many youngsters started on them. You wont see that many kids starting on them now. I dont know what you want to spend. Petrol wise you could look for a beta rev 50 at cheaper end or small wheel beta 80, junior. That way you get the whole clutch and gears thing from day 1 and good brakes! Kids learn v quick i wouldn't be concerned and personally think its better than the rev n go.
Other option is the v popular oset route. Don't be put off by thinking its an electric toy, it isnt its an excellent route into it that so many choose. There is then a learning curve swapping onto petrol but just takes time
I have high lift cam and the cdi from tyoffroad. Bottom end smoothness is great, revs cleanly. Wont claim a massive improvement but definitely worth doing. Parallel yokes too improved steering
Honestly try a product like ethanol shield. About 15m! To 5litre of petrol. My chainsaw, leaf blower etc all sit for ages unused then start no problem. Stops the ethanol absorbing water (apparently) and stops petrol going "off"
I think the original question meant is the shop worth a look around? As in are they a small business or is it like toys r us for trials riders.
I bought a Vertigo from them this year. I'm up in Northumberland and they dropped it off at vertigo HQ for me to collect. They were excellent to deal with and speak to. Bike was spot on
I had a C15 with a faber frame. I used NJB ultimates they were length adjustable so you can set at what works best for you. Sure they were set at 340mm
Basic info new rider
in Trials Training And Technique
Posted
Hi, you are correct re gear selection. Vast majority of sections are ridden in same gear. If you're ever going to fluff a gear change you can guarantee it will be mid section. It can be needed eg drop a gear after hill climb for remainder but rarely and more likely at higher level.
Rear brake is used a lot in trials to control speed and smooth things out. It's a technique that needs practice
Good starting point for bars is to look at the bike from the side, follow the line of the forks and position them so the grips would be on that line, levers usually around 30° experts often have them flatter for techniques when on back wheel but that's beyond me!!