Out of curiosity, what are they made of, are they a physical protection to the fork leg top only or incorporate a dirt cover for seal. Can’t quite tell on photo
C15T 101-301 were 1959 trials engines. Seems unusual a trial engine ended up as road bike, but who knows what has been done over the years. Do you have the frame number. It would be great if you could locate any paperwork or registration documents.
Restoration depends on how much you can do yourself, how much time and interest you have, how much money you are prepared to spend and whether to restore as road bike or use engine as donor for a brand new pre65 trials bike.
Piston rises to top of stroke on compression and exhaust stroke, with spark plug out you can feel the slight pressure on compression by putting thumb over the hole, then align the marks when you know it’s the compression stroke. haven’t adjusted mine so I’m not sure of the timing marks used on beta flywheel. Some decent videos on YouTube of how to do it . Has to be compression as that’s when the intake and exhaust valves are shut.
I bought one from eBay “Ryde small motorcycle cover.” Only £8, covered trials bike well and survived motorway journey from Kent to Northumberland in the rain. Not completely waterproof but kept all the road muck off
Everything Jonboy said is true, very friendly sport, lots of people take it up around this age. Details of local clubs are on acu.org in members area. You can join a club and get your licence online. One way to get a bit of practice would be to go to a trial and learn how to observe, then you can observe a few trials with your bike, have a bit of a ride round and practice off road while there.
When ready find out which are the easier venues near you and enter, you can always skip anything to really don’t like until confidence builds. Best practice will be taking part, beauty of trials is we all fall off. People will just give you help and advice.
I’ve had 2 beta 4ts and never had any problems over and above the normal servicing. Only niggle I find is they don’t like stalling, so if it does when hot and won’t start after 2 kicks, pull the red hot start lever out to start it. Personal preference but I find the fast standard throttle too quick(maybe perfect for you) Amal 80/200 throttle makes big difference just put the nipple in the “spare” hole on carb end, it’s obvious when you look and it fits perfect. Other than that I love them, very different to 2 stroke
If you can get/borrow a volt meter check the voltage of each of the batteries after charging. A charged 12v battery should read about 12.7v if it shows 12v it’s actually classed as discharged and that means dodgy battery.
However sounds like your Oset charger itself may be dodgy, we went through two when had Osets over 4 years. As above charge each battery separately and check they are ok then replace charger.
I use ethanol shield fuel stabiliser, originally for small chainsaw engines it’s supposed to prolong the shelf life of petrol and prevent the corrosive effect of ethanol, stops it absorbing water. It’s relatively cheap, only needs tiny amount for 5l of petrol. I can leave petrol in chainsaw for months on end as it doesn’t get used much and it still starts and runs fine.
As above, buy copy of the book, separate one for engine, it’s worth it’s weight in engine oil. Explains everything including improvements.
Having had problems with clutch slipping on starting from cold I run chaincase dry. The Oil is only for the chain. As bike doesn’t do road work at constant higher revs I just use chain lube on primary chain, sprayed onto it via breather pipe hole. Works for me.
TLR200 new fork tubes
in Honda
Posted
Haven’t used this part but I can vouch for the quality of their stuff and service. Wouldn’t hesitate to buy from them