kid is good but he needs to diversify! young riders gotta build their support, Instagram videos, self promotion and etc... I follow him in few different platforms and the kid never posts anything... if you not influencing, why should the manufacture invest?
There's a thing called a Clake that uses the left bar lever as a clutch and rear brake that might interest you.
I've also often thought that mountain bikes and electric trials bikes with the rear brake on the left handlebar lever had a slight advantage for bike control compared with using one of your feet for the rear brake.
As for the having the brakes both work off one lever, it would be a significant handicap when riding trials because the reason they are independent is to provide better bike control. From the sound of your question I'd say that when you have had some more trials riding experience you will appreciate why the brakes are independent.
Clake works great and will teach you a lot about your timing specially for stationary zaps and rear wheel hops! definitely is not a solution and you will have to develop a rear break skills for your foot in the future but i seriously advise any beginner intermediate rider to try the clake. it teaches you not to clutch more then necessary (a pro rider skill). after using the clake for few weeks, you will find a lot easier to hold pressure and clutch it just until you hold the bike steady.... I try everything available on the market, sometimes feels weird but in the end always teaches you something good luck
Im struggling to do this double blip i find first blip into object and then there doesn't seem time for a second my timing must be all wrong i think i must be overthinking this it looks so easy
try to brake the move in 3 steps and practice each of the separate. (for Zap)
first of all, they are 3 different techniques: roll up, double blip and jap zap! one burst of throttle, two distinctive bursts of throttle and two bursts of throttle with pop of clutch respectively! for the ladder, you can break in steps to learn how to get lift. the steps are: stiffing front wheel and compressing the suspension, de weighing pegs with front wheel planted and popping the clutch at last! this worked really well for me and I know can japzap a 3.5-4 feet tall undercut obstacle comfortably. As it been said before: Practice , practice, practice, take a break and practice again! good luck
How do you about breathing the CO? does it ventilate well?? I remember seeing people using bandanas on their face ! Wish was closer so I could participate but I m at the Quebec border
What is the difference in the top end of the new 301 vs the big bore kit (S3) for the 300rr? The bigbore brings it to aprox 299cc. Isnt it what the 301 measures? On a thread i started while ago I was contemplating the big bore and i had mention I was curious about the new edition!! Turns out the 301 is pretty much the 300 with a big bore and some adjustments in the valve that controls the engine brake in the lower end (correct me if I m mistaking please).
Updates: Got the programable Throttle body from factory on 2018 RR so I just purchased hardware and softwares for re-mapping! Termignoni exhaust and header are next! Big bore is on its way via mail!
If you re about to say that I dont need power, that these upgrades are useless without the skill and such, just save your comment! It's winter here, and if I cant ride, I m putting time working to improve the bike. Also been thinking of a heavier spring for my rear Showa. Anyone has done that?? What's the feedback? Thanks all
I thought of one problem: using throttle and front brake to lift rear wheel. Still curious to try. Let the flogging start:
There is a solution for you if you struggle with rear brake modulation! its a clake pro lever which will combine rear brake and clutch in one single lever. everyone will say bad things about but believe me: The trials community is just very close minded! if no pro rider uses, it must suck, right??? I used for while to develop rear brake timing and was amazing. when tuned correctly will allow you to understand better the use of rear brake ( a must have skill). you can see it in use in my instagram and fb @leoslg and trials vlogger
How about TRS for Dibs?? have you ever thought about? would be a great move for the factory. he is a very popular lad and TRS is growing fast... btw he just re-posted a pic of Raga in his intagram (hint) That would be awesome
So far we have: Fajardo to Sherco, Casales ? The Gelabert brothers both to Vertigo! Is that it for rider swap for the indoor season? If so Vertigo scored big. Seems they believe in youngters and they have a beautiful trio of talented riders! Sherco? Well Fajardo will prob ride less efficient than the Gas gas IMHO. Beta is quite crowded! Bincaz, Martin, Dabil... They all new aquisitiona as well. Prob no changes for this season. Where will Cadales go other than Gas Gas??
Just wondering what the intent on the big bore kit is?
I have a 2017 300RR and found the best power mod for the $ was to swap out the black throttle tube for a white one... Love how much snappier the bike is...
Outside of that you would likely get a lot more bang for the $ with a programmable throttle body than a big bore kit.
Also something to consider before going to the bigger piston is fuel rate burn characteristics. If you consider the HRC bikes Bou and Fuji ride you will see they are something like 314cc and have a dual spark system to give the best performance, so the closer you get to that size the more you will want the programmable throttle body to be able (if possible) to tweak both fuel and ignition timing.
I know that was a bit long winded and may not even apply to what your after so feel free to disregard it if it doesn't.
On 9/16/2019 at 12:23 AM, pauls320 said:
Pretty sure you will have to bore the cases to fit that cylinder kit
As far as I understand from the product description is just a top end swap. No bore needed! from 288 to 299 cc
I did get the white tube while ago and that did make a big diference! I was told by several people that the titanium exhaust and head is the most useful power upgrade you can do on the production 4RT. If I put the titanium pipe, big bore kit and programmed throttle body, I will prob have a pretty sweet 4RT that costed me double of a 2 stroke in the end! lol But nothing like riding the Honda, Its just a great machine, even with all the disadvantages when compared to 2 stroke. Does anyone have a ball park on the programmable throttle body?? The exhaust and head go for around $1100 in the USA and the Big Bore kit goes for roughly $800. at this point I m also wishing that this new 301RR that will come out in October will have some of this features, but even with my very very limited knowledge in the trials Industry, It's still "wishful think" . We will prob get a New color and sticker designs...
it proves the same point of having the beta 80 against your GG300, or should I say Nothing!!! the fact I was trying to figure why I think the 300rr has more power than my old Sherco 300sft is due to my very personal experience described in the thread!! and I am clueless. No mechanic experience whatsoever. however, I told you guys where the flywheel idea came from (from my friend -drifter) and it all make sense until debunked by a bunch of people here... enjoy the GasGas.
sorry for all the trouble caused!! I bought the 300RR and was going to keep the sheco factory 300 to have a 2 stroke and 4 stroke simultaneously.
I ride a man made track and am not an expert but I m capable of basic techniques such zaps and splatters.
it didn't take 1 month before I decided to get rid of the Sherco! Why?
I took both bikes to track few times and made sure to ride them back to back in the same obstacle... sometimes i had both running at the same time and one bike would idle while I did 5 zaps or splatters with the other one and kept taking turns...
my biggest obstacles in which I m comfortable for my skills is a 4feet 1inch high straight wooden wire spool and a 4 feet skidder tire buried half way which I aproack from the side (flat and undercut).
want to know the only reason I sold the Sherco?? I can get more lift, more height and more control on the 300 RR... It literally puzzles me when I hear that the bike is gutless and power delivery is not smooth! what am I missing?? how can you blame on technique and skill when I m riding them back to back? same rider! to be fully honest the Sherco had an advantage cuz is the one I was ridding the longest...
So, the list of advantages of the 4 stroke (personally to me) go on and on... but the straw that broke the camel's back: "engine Brake" after I started to get use to it, the 2 stroke served no purpose and I m heading for a pair of Montesas in 2019. I m not sure If I will build my own eventually or buy something already built. having 2 bikes is a must for me. always ready to go... if you riding and something breaks, the day is not over yet! Thanks everyone for the input
Why dont you just get a beta 80, install a 10kg flywheel weight on it, wait your 1.5 seconds with the clutch in while its accelerated to speed, drop the clutch in front of your biggest hill, and then let us know how much more torque it has than my 300 gg
why don't You and I just park the bike side by side , put in neutral and hold the throttle wide open to see what bike quits first??? #%^$&^*
I m not the smartest and most knowledgeable in Trials but my point has some sort of validity. I don't think it should be taken as a joke. It all started from a friend of mine that is a professional drifter and he was explaining why drifters put lighter fly wheels on their rides. When they enter a turn they "kick the clutch" to increase the RPMs so they can start drifting by spinning and loosing traction. the reason for a lighter Fly wheel in that case (acording to him) is to allow a fast pick up in RPM since you can only kick that clutch for a split sec... in trials we have plenty of time to raise RPMs ( in which point the Torque is gone for both 2 and 4 strokes) so adding weight to the fly wheel would technically have the reverse effect. your engine will take longer to reach the high RPM but when you dump the clutch, inertia of rotation should favor the initial "punch". from there on, I cant really testify but if Physics still works correctly, please en-light me what I am missing. if the Beta 80 could accelerate a 10kg fly wheel fast enough, all I can say is that the beta front wheel would leave the ground before your gg300. after that, of course that engine cant carry on the rotation... just saying... my original question is all about a "Splatter" and the "punch" the split sec when goes from disengaged to engaged. Enjoy the GG300. when starts is a great bike LMAO
Power (torque) come from engine. It is'nt altered by flywheel.
Flywheel is a rotating mass that can store momentum. It has two effects:
1) when engine is comming from a lower RPM to a higer RPM: Engine will increase rpm slower since it has an added mass to accelerate. It can increase traction due a less agressive behavior and it will decrease power burst you have using throttle.
2) When engine is comming from a higer RPM to lower RPM: Flywheel will give energy to system. Rotating momentum can be used to drive the motorcycle.
An side efferct is the engine runnig in a more steady way when travelling during a rough terrain like over a bunch of loose rocks or loose terrain. On malleability deppartment, it can increase the "heavy feeling" on motorcycle just like we feel on a big bore engine.
Had played with flywhhel a lot and my feeling is: It only good in specific conditions (mud, senior rider, MX bikes on enduro). https://youtu.be/16d-ewfc8lU For average Joe, most of time, better stick with what come from factory.
Seems that you just backed up my point on number 2! Bazinga!
Heavier flywheel doesn't change the amount of torque a motor has, a 2T should always have more torque due to firing every revolution. When people say 4Ts have more torque they are actually confusing flywheel mass needed to keep the motor turning during the non-firing revolution with torque
I have to completely agree and disagree with you. The heavier fly wheel can not generate torque indeed! torque is only generated by the engine.. The heavier flywheel will do is have more inertia. and that inertia means punch power when you let your clutch out with a full Throtle that has been wide open for 1.5 full second. imagine that: put your bike on a stand with the rear in the air in 3rd gear and clutch on wide open so the wheel will spin as fast as you can then suddenly press the clutch and jam the rear brake! that's replicating what happens in the flywheel/clutch. Then do the same experiment but this time pack the rear rim with some lead weight distributed evenly. when you jam that brake, you better be holding the bike!!!
My original question was confusing. Is it about the power that the engine can generate or the inertia of flywheel and efficiency of clutch. Obviously I m talking about splatters, where all of us hold it wide open and just clutch on to launch... I swear the 4RT punch is higher than 2T. I mean, on my bikes was so obvious... that’s why I don’t get it... where is this disparity in power?
I did not realise that the 300rr was that gutless that an amateur rider would need to to tune it up.........are we talking about the same bike as this one https://youtu.be/Jr3w9J_qRGU
That’s what I think!! In the USA everyone seems to believe that this bike has no guts. I think it has much more than my previous bike: a 2018 300sherco factory.
Actually, it's not just diameter either, it's actually 'moment of inertia' that matters, see here clicky thing
How do you imagine this influences how you keep your feet up?
It doesn’t. But it’s know that more torque will come from more inertia. So, whichever bike can generate such with have a bigger punch correct? When you go for a splatter and accelerate the fly wheel clutch fully Off and then pop it, more inertia = more launch! Correct?
So are the brakes even trying to work? Are they squeaking? Or does the lever just come to the bar?
they do work! it brakes but wont really lock and requires a lot of pressure to do stopies and etc... when you doing small rear wheel hops it just sucks cuz it wont lock the front wheel to make the rear alive. (it seems to have a bit of excessive travel on the lever as well. the lever is away far out just in order to have enough braking to ride (but no locking)
I don't suppose you're the guy that sprays WD-40 all over his brakes?
If the pads and rotors are new and bedded in, the problem is either the caliper or the master cylinder. There's literally nothing else left.
OK! if was you, which one would you replace first?? I m ready. I will put the new MC rebuild kit and see if it works. could it still be the MC even if the rebuild kit doesnt fix it? Thanks
What make of brake pads are you putting in and are they sintered or not.
they are galfer G1805 pads and galfer disc. before I had jitsie pads and they put grooves on both sides of the rotor! i replaced rotor and pads last time.
Kieran touly
in World Championship Chat
Posted
kid is good but he needs to diversify! young riders gotta build their support, Instagram videos, self promotion and etc... I follow him in few different platforms and the kid never posts anything... if you not influencing, why should the manufacture invest?