It's a lot of trouble to tear down the bike again if something slips. Special tools, new gaskets, and possible bearing damage plus too much down time and expense. The case halves are also sealed up with a sealant after a repair like this, so there is that sealant to deal with as well
Not really. A couple of special tools, good selection of normal quality hand tools, common sense and a shop manual, and your time is your labour.
They are not a difficult engine to work on.
IMO, a 2T single is one of the easiest motors to rebuild.
. I have to say that I find the Mikuni carb to be longer lasting than Amal....having been brought up on a mixed diet of various Amal types, I found they tend to wear quite quickly.
Concur.
Until.... a few years ago when Amal brought out the Premier range for MK I Concentrics, these are superbly made, different materials, hard anodized slide, removable pilot jet (hooray!) and are just top notch kit, certainly better than the stock versions you can still buy. Night & Day.
I have to say, Amal have really upped their game in the last decade, all the older models like the 376/389 Monobloc and even older stuff is all being remade and IMO, better quality than ever before.
"Fit and go" are always close generalizations and get you in the ball park. It's very rare a carb conversion kit fuels perfectly in all the stages for most bikes.
There's some Mikuni tuning stuff on the net, but they are virtually the same as an Amal.
Needle position and needle jet is the meat and potatoes of throttle position, affecting 1/4 - 3/4, just off idle the slide cutaway affects things too.
Factory settings would seem unlikely to be correct for a bike with so many mods to the motor and a completely different carb. You may have some experimentation ahead of you...............
This.
+1.
With ALL THE MODS you listed, i can guarantee you it aint gonna run on stock base settings.
A Womens Class rider was DQ'd at a World Round a few years ago for being under the minimum weight. Her bike was weighed at the end of the loop when it was low on fuel. It had gone through the Weigh In, with a full tank of fuel and passed.
Cargo trousers/pants, preferably in digital camo. Cheap, comfortable, tough, baggy, lots of pockets, and the camo design hides a multitude of sins....?
The stands in the OP look great, and versatile, but, IMHO, unless you are doing it for a living, 8 hours a day every day, and building different motors, they are a bit over the top.
A simple box section stand holding the motor in a normal vertical position is perfectly fine for your own engine, and can be knocked up in half an hour with a saw, grinder and mig welder.
Spoiler alert, i've been a m/c mechanic my whole adult life, inc having my own shop for 15 years in the UK specializing in certain engines, we had an individual stand for every motor and separate g/box. Took up a lot of space on the wall and under the benches, the above pic seems like a great 3 in 1 idea....
I have now done some diy nickel plating at home. All you need for diy nickel plating is a power source, such as an old phone charger, a strip of pure nickel (e,bay) some white vinegar and some hydrochloric acid (One Shot drain cleaner). I have got good results so far with nuts, bolts and a fabricated brake pedal. Lots more to do.
It's easy. Lots of videos on YouTube.
Pic of your fabricated brake pedal please post plating.
I had a metal finishing shop in the UK for 15 years - Precision Surface Preparation.
Metal polishing, all disciplines, and wet and dry bead blasting.
The plating itself was farmed out, as was the chemical stripping of old plating, prior to us doing all the prep work. Plating is only as good as the prep work. Labour intensive - it's where most of the money goes.
In answer to your questions;
# zinc and nickel/chrome plating are very very different processes.
# i have no experience with home hobby kits.
# I highly doubt you will be able to plate or replate a m/c frame with such a kit.
# No, nickel goes on before chrome.
Triple chrome plate is polish, copper, polish, nickel, polish, chrome.
# Doubtfull, and if you did/could, it will look a mess, see above.
Montesa 248 oil from exhaust
in Montesa
Posted
Too much oil.
I'd start at 40:1 with an air cooled iron cylinder liner in an alloy barrel.