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Everything posted by thai-ty

  1. No word or mention of Yamaha in the OP's post. If he had put the opening post in the Yamaha forum we all would have understood. Exactly.
  2. Did'nt Clymers do a manual? I have a Clymer Vintage Spanish off road manual, comprising the Big 3 - Bul, Mont, Ossa from the years mid 60-s to late 70's all models trials thru motocross, 125-350. May still be available, some pretty useful stuff in there.
  3. thai-ty


    Concur with ease of assembly/dis-assembly using a pair of roller bearings as opposed to 2 x ball bearings or 1 x ball and 1 x roller brg. Back in a previous life i built Brit parallel twins for a living in my own workshops. Norton came out with a fix on their Combat Commandos in the early 70's which were a pair of FAG bronze caged 3 piece rollers, set up and run with end float. No more bottom ends and crankcases exploding, and comfortably able to handle much more torque and bhp. We fitted these with machining of crank or cases wherever possible on various bikes, mainly Meriden Triumphs, and a big benefit was ........... ease of assembly/dis-assembly... Sorry, carry on Bultaco's - back on topic.....
  4. I have my current bikes - both 84 ty250 mono's - because where i live there are no Bultaco and Montesa twinshocks, nor Yamaha twin shock ty's nor anything remotely pre 65 Brit project bike ish. the nearest being Indian made 350 - 500 Bullets c/w front disc brakes and indicators...... So i'll stick with my beloved ty mono's.....
  5. I wear Boulders too. Try riding out here! I'm outta the house and togged up ready to go by 7 at the latest. Done by 9.00 am, 9.30 the very latest. Forget summer time which is Mar-May here as its already 30C by breakfast and 38-40C by lunchtime. I wear thick army socks, and thin camo cargo trousers tucked in, can't wear shorts - had too many burns, cuts and unneccessary scabs.
  6. Big difference believe me, especially with 90% humidity. I believe sweat wicking t shirt the wrong description, but i know what you mean, missing the "t" out.
  7. I would agree up until Amal introduced the Premier range of their Concentrics several years ago. More expensive, but........ superb build and component quality, a removeable pilot jet and a hard anodized slide. Really nice bits of kit.
  8. Set the tension with the motor out of the frame, fit, and forget about it for at least one season, prolly more.
  9. Concur with all the above, but especially, puleeze, please please, inexperienced people - a rattle/air gun HAS NO PLACE NEAR A CRANKSHAFT. In fact i don't like them on any engine/clutch/gearbox internals. You Tube can be a great source of education, it also has a fair few numpties who should not be let anywhere near a set of spanners. Regards, engine builder for 35 years.
  10. Really? If you've got everything to within half a thou i reckon you've done pretty well, deserve a pat on the back, and the beers on me down the pub. A thou is perfectly acceptable, obviously half a thou is better, way under - nigh on impossible.
  11. Seat unit itself with plastic or the red seat alone? If its just the seat i have a vgc red one spare. 3rd one on the right. I sold my decent freshly painted steel tanks and plastic seat units in the UK and went smaller plastic tank with Paul's Shedworks one piece tank/seat unit shelters. But you want originality.
  12. Try CTC, Cambridge Trials Centre in the UK, its where i bought my ready to go Wossner pistons a year or so ago. Top notch quality.
  13. thai-ty

    1977 TS 185

    In 76-77 i was still 16 and riding first a gold metal flake FS1E, followed by a fairly rapid Fantic GT. Our market town's only new m/c dealer was Suzuki. I used to drool over those 70's two stroke trail bikes like the TS185 and 250. Was'nt there a 350 or 400 or was that Yamaha? Yamaha was in our nearest city and i loved those DT175, 250, 360's too. Good times.
  14. Thoughts? Its not a road bike, you are not travelling along tarmac at 60mph, save some money and give them a go.
  15. What you mean is someone has made it pretty externally to sell on. Lovely condition i would describe as pretty AND mechanically all working well, and at least as good as the factory intended. Having a box of missing gears, no neutral, an iffy clutch is not part of that description, IMO. I ran a m/c shop in the UK for 15 years, and if i let a m/c go out in that condition mechanically, yet cosmetically clean & pretty, i would be the first to admit to being a scoundrel and deserved of a good ear bashing. And a minimum of a warrantied box rebuild FOC.
  16. Too much oil. I'd start at 40:1 with an air cooled iron cylinder liner in an alloy barrel.
  17. Bar the Kawa lime green colour scheme, God that is a good looking motorcycle IMO.
  18. Mainshaft (output shaft) oil seal is shot also. The shaft your sprkt sits on. Sounds like a lot of dried out/aged/incorrectly fitted/poor quality aftermarket seals on the motor.....
  19. Not really. A couple of special tools, good selection of normal quality hand tools, common sense and a shop manual, and your time is your labour. They are not a difficult engine to work on. IMO, a 2T single is one of the easiest motors to rebuild.
  20. That ain't no trials bike dude....
  21. Honda CRF250l trail bike for $2.5-3k. You don't even really need a trial bike.
  22. Concur. Until.... a few years ago when Amal brought out the Premier range for MK I Concentrics, these are superbly made, different materials, hard anodized slide, removable pilot jet (hooray!) and are just top notch kit, certainly better than the stock versions you can still buy. Night & Day. I have to say, Amal have really upped their game in the last decade, all the older models like the 376/389 Monobloc and even older stuff is all being remade and IMO, better quality than ever before.
  23. "Fit and go" are always close generalizations and get you in the ball park. It's very rare a carb conversion kit fuels perfectly in all the stages for most bikes. There's some Mikuni tuning stuff on the net, but they are virtually the same as an Amal. Needle position and needle jet is the meat and potatoes of throttle position, affecting 1/4 - 3/4, just off idle the slide cutaway affects things too. I think you'll get there quickly.
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