thai-ty

Lovely job. Nice interesting read and great photos. Shorten the gear lever split clamp allen head so no thread is protruding. Replace the 3 'orrible c'sunk crossheads with c'sunk allens. Sorry for being pedantic....

Not a fan of fully synthetic oil in Brit motors. I'd put a high quality mineral 20/50 in the engine and whatever the Triumph Competition Dept recommended in the gearbox. EP90 ? Oil in a trials bike is cheap enough, not a lot used and changed regularly. By the way, I ran/owned a Meriden Triumph twin shop back in the UK for 15 years and have worked on British bikes for over 35 years. Regards.

I like anything old. Brit, HD, Guzzi, older Ducati's, air head BMW's, anything that was designed on a drawing board with a sharp pencil and machined on manual machines with jigs and fixtures. So, no CAD, CAM, CNC bollox. Or in other words anything modern. I have yet to own a water cooled bike. I've owned 2 FI Guzzi's, everything else in 41 years of riding and owning motorcycles has been carb'd. Trials bikes - bit of a newbie; Montesa Cota and my ty Monos. Would'nt mind a late Bultaco...

Never heard of it. Sounds like an Araldite brand... I'm more of an EN1, EN1A, EN8, EN16 type of bloke.

So, no one can explain or answer the question as to why Yamaha would specify an R plug for one model and a non R plug for another model? Both bikes having the same cdi, and ignition component set up. Perhaps it's a legal thing for different markets? The 350 mono only ever being sold in Australasia and the N. American market?

I was a machinist and mechanic by trade. I still have a lathe, a vertical mill, a shaper and a T&CG in my workshop here. So, what's P20?

Thank you for that. Finally got round to watching some Michael Waller videos. The guy is very talented, and his videos very informative and enjoyable to watch. Far better than a lot out there in YouTube world. Next one i'll be watching is him putting a shaft drive Yam triple in a Commando frame...

Stator flywheel ignition cover is not the same as the clutch cover. Hell, you could machine one out of billet aluminium, or weld an end on some tube. Clutch cover completely different matter.

God that looks cold... Great photos.

I'm after a plastic fuel tank. Prices seem to be going mental for the ty mono. I've missed two on Ebay because they've gone for TWICE what I thought they would. Best bet in your case is probably buying a complete motor or basket case and having useful other spares.

Certainly not here...

Thanks for the reply. I've read certain CDI's like a resistor plug. If that's the case why did Yamaha specify a non R plug for the 350 (N. American and Australian markets only)? Fuel - it's leaded over here, but we still have a choice of ethanol 91 or 95 AND 95 octane "pure petrol" non ethanol. I always put the good stuff in with a 50:1 mix of semi synthetic. Carburation is good, bikes run really well, plugs look slightly rich, bar DEP silencer and Boyesen reeds they are pretty stock. Someone mentioned source coil, but I can remove the dead plug, remove the plug cap and get a decent spark jump to earth. Put another new plug in and away I go... However 'Ol Blu does not go thru plugs like 'Ol Yeller...

Don't know if plugs have a shelf life (doubt it) but my at least 15 y/o NOS plugs from the UK stock has dwindled to the last one. 'Ol Yeller has been eating them at a remarkable rate recently, NGK B6ES. The manual states the R version NGK BR6ES. I notice the TY350 Mono manual states NGK BP6EV which is a projector plug (different c/head chamber and bigger bore) but not a resistor plug. Now both bikes run the same CDI system which confuses me why Yamaha would specify an R plug for one and not the other. Ideas? Input? Whilst searching info , I came across BVM's website and their plug page shows a bunch of different plugs, none of which are resistor models. Surely some makes of the modern bikes specify R plugs? Or does the R just not affect spark/CDI performance in these models? Also had a helluva job locating any 6's over here, (pity because 14mm NGK plugs retail at 1.30 GBP or 11 quid a box of 10...) so have just ordered a box of 10 BR6ES from the UK.

My two '84 250 mono's... 'Ol Blu and 'Ol Yeller...

Bultacos should be blue with a white frame. The red ones just don't look as good...

Er, disagree. You could buy a PAIR of new tyres for the price of those Raptor thingies. Front AND rear...

I'm a big fan of sidecars. Road and road race sidecars. One of my favourite vehicles I owned was the Triumph workshop hack I built. Unit 650 iron head motor in a rigid frame with a rigid sidecar wheel. What fun! What outrageous fun! Fastest thing round a roundabout in the wet. However, I digress. Watched a fair bit of pre 65 sidecar vids on You Tube. Sorry, I just don't get it. I don't see the point at all in sidecar trials.

That's the thing - anything remotely oily is going to attract the sand. Like flies to s##t. I reckon KTM know a bit about off road sandy conditions....

Told you Al.

Excellent work. Cleaner baffle plates than mine with that blasting. Well done!

Hey! That's my mid box! Looks identical! Actually one of mine was even worse as all the holes at the header end were closed up with hard carbon. Now, pics of it once finished and cleaned, and prior to repacking and welding up. Then.... tell us how many hours you spent on it....

Thanks for the recommendation. I've had a look at that on the net - looks like it does what it says on the tin. Have to buy some next year when i'm back in England.

Sickening! I know how it feels. I had my workshop broken into back in the UK, 4 classic Brit bikes stolen - all customers. Alarms and phone lines cut, gas torch on the iron bars and grills and roller shutter door, gas ran out and the scumbags finished off with battery angle grinders... On an industrial estate - nobody saw or heard a thing. Absolute nightmare with paperwork and the insurance.

I'm full up on pic capability on this forum. Google my thread on a Thai centric forum entitled "The Tale of Two ty250 Monos (pic heavy)". Runs to 12 odd pages and has a bunch of photos inc several on this very subject.

Normally, if necessary (not always the case), pilot and main jets are changed, not the needle. Needle position can be altered up or down with the needle clip. Lifting it up richens the mixture and vise versa.