thai-ty

Thanks guys. The concensus is WD40 or equivelant.

If anybody's interested, and like their workshop manual for complete teardowns, I have found out that the Pinky (4AJ?) 1990 on manuals show everything.

pm sent.

Yes, but do you ride in sandy conditions?

Excellent idea. Have you not thought about patenting this.

Would WD 40 not attract sand? I'm thinking completely bone dry and just replace with a new one every year.

Yeah, Thanks, just checked that link, which lead to another Ebay link for another w/shop manual being sold by bike book specialists which amongst the blurb states "everything except splitting the c/cases".... So, c'mon, somebody out there must have split some cases and had a crank apart. Anybody?

I've got a downloaded genuine 350 workshop manual. Once it gets to gearbox internals, splitting c/cases and c/shaft work etc, it says "take it to your local dealer". I have 3 spare 250 mono engines and fancied rebuilding one from scratch as a spare. 1. I presume all workshop manuals available are the same and don't describe the above in detail? 2. Has anybody pulled apart an engine and can give me any pointers, pitfalls and what to expect, particularly; # g/box cluster assembled in which side case? # crank can come apart using a normal 15T hydraulic press? # Big end presses out from which crank side? # Any other things to look out for? Cheers in advance.

Hi, coming from having road bikes all my adult life, and being a m/c mechanic and machinist, I know about chains and lube. But, now I've got into trials bikes as well, i'm in a dilemma about lubing the chains on my two ty250 mono's. Where I ride, the soil is almost like a lime, sandy condition. Whatever is put on the chain, either proper aerosol Silkolene chain spray, or g/box oil from an oil can spout just on the rollers, it's just like flies being attracted to sh... Anything will attract the sand. So. lately I've been running the chains dry, no lube and giving them a brush down post ride. At 12 quid for a new length of brand name chain locally, this seems my best option. Any views, opinions, comments? What's better? Right or wrong?

Thanks for that, just the info I was after.

Forma Boulders - just because they look old skool. Black or brown, no namby pamby modern designs and colours. And they work. And they are priced right. (me, no, not biased at all).

On the verge of locating and (hopefully) purchasing a 2nd plastic tank. Anybody own one of Paul @ Shedworks tank shelters for a ty250 mono? IMO they look great, but... Questions; How easy is it to remove for servicing the air filter? Do you remove the shelter and the tank stays in place each time? Or is the rear tank bolt not fitted and the whole thing pivots up at the front? How strong is it? ie can you sit on it, resting, in between sections? Any other opinions? Thanks in advance.

Yes, smiles not trophies, fun not results. Nothing around here to enter in anyway. Plus I enjoy building bikes these days as much as I do riding them. Bike in question is a road Indian 350 Bullet, c/w disc brake front end, lights and indicators. As far from a basic starting point as you can get. No legal road paperwork here, so ideal for an off road trials bike. My idea is to get the thing below 250lbs or 115 kgs in new money down in weight. I have a Hitchcocks catalogue here as I use them for Amal parts, so I know what i'm letting myself in for, money wise. Drum front brake, alloy rims, s/s spokes, ignition, slim primary chaincase, hi-level ex system, shocks, alloy barrel, different gearing, possible new g/box ratios, small tank - preferably Holtworks as i'm not keen on the Enfield trials shape and a bunch of other stuff I've forgotten to mention. Oh, and plastic mudguards... Probably end up spending a couple of grand on it. Plus point is my labour and time. Have my own machine shop, can make yokes, spindles, fabricate brackets, build engines, true cranks etc. I have read as much as I can, and there are a couple of informative posts on TC regarding Indian Enfields, one of which mentioned they can be made into a decent tool. Thanks again, keep your thoughts coming.

Thanks guys. Encouragement - that's what I need...

Thank you for that. Appreciate the reply. That is the type of info I was looking for. Anybody else with input that could finally put me off my daft idea? If I built this bike, there is no competition in this area, certainly no Pre 65, let alone a twinshock class in the whole country. Just a small trials community in the NW (i'm in the NE - a day's drive away) riding modern stuff with the odd smattering of air cooled monos and twinshocks. I doubt if there is a Brit off road bike in the whole country.

Yes, thank you for your reply. I mentioned generalizations like weight and handling, won't turn as well, heavier clutch (my mono's have a super-light clutch lever), slower gearbox (4 speed vs 6 speed), ratios etc. I'm asking for views and comments specifically on engine performance in a trials scenario compared to air cooled 2 stroke 250's. Somebody who has ridden both genres and can compare. Heavy weight Brit 350 singles, converted with all mod cons to a trials machine. Thanks.

The performance of Pre 65 "heavyweights". Not C15's, not Cubs nor Bantams, but 4 stroke 350's, specifically the Enfield Bullets. Had Brit road bikes all my adult life, but my trials background experience is limited to air cooled 250 2 strokes, a Montesa 247 Cota a long time ago and currently a couple of ty250 mono's. Yes, I know they will be heavier, they won't turn as well etc etc. But, for anyone that knows, please tell me about engine performance compared to a 250 air cooled 2 stroke. Will they loft the front wheel over a log or obstacle with ease just on the throttle etc? Similar low to mid range torque to the ty monos (both have full weight flywheels)? Less snappy, less revvy etc? Been offered a project, just thinking if the end result would leave me disappointed once finished or not. Thanks in advance, look fwd to your views.

Another vote for Yeller. Blu's starting to feel left out....

Thank you. Not dirty, but 'Ol Yeller is having a replacement tank sprayed as I speak, as the one pictured developed a leak on the bottom rear R/H corner and obviously did the paint in, in that area. That tank is now being repaired locally. 'Ol Blu has a small crack and chip in the glass rear guard where I, er, fell off, sort of, 3rd gear wheelie which was not controlled very well. Trials bikes - it's all about control, and putting the bike exactly to within 2" of where you want it to go... still learning that one....

Thanks. Yeah, Yeller is the one I built for my lad. He's 12 next month and nearly comfortable sitting on it, but still a bit too tippy toes, another 6 months he should have grown enough to be confident enough to learn to ride it. One of the reasons I built two was for us to do some motorcycle bonding... Prior to putting them together he had the choice, kids just love yellow and black - Bumblebee etc. Plus if you have a stable of Yamahas, ya gotta have one in yellow. Me, personally prefer Blu, my Yamaha homage to the last of the Bultacos. In my previous life i've built dozens of motorcycles, both professionally and commercially, and privately. Many of the bikes I built were featured in magazines and the (in)famous Crossbow calender. All road legal bikes, mainly custom Triumph twins. Most of them did not have a manufacturers logo on the tank's paint job. Just not my thing. My Guzzi I still have, is the odd exception, and does indeed say Moto Guzzi in gold on the tank. My Triumph (see Introduce Yourself thread) er, does not. I never, ever, thought or wanted the Yamaha logo nor the tuning fork on these, hell Speed Blocks shout Yamaha as it is (did I tell you I love Speed Blocks?), and I didn't want the tank to shout "look at me, i'm made in Japan", no offence intended, not having owned or built a Japanese bike since I was 18. These are the 2nd and 3rd trials bikes I've built ground up, the first being a Cota 247 in 2003 (silver frame, white guards and blue tank). Regards, Mike.

Stock DID 32 hole Yamaha gold anodized rims. See my other thread, of finding the best 2 pairs of rims from 9 rims. Corrosion internally was bad on two particular rear rims, the fronts weren't too bad. Common alloy rims here are either 36 or 40 hole.

Side stands up!

Thank you. Stock '84 two piece steel brake levers. Angle altered on the rear spline to allow for the footrests and levers to be in the right plane and fit my boots. Work a treat.