Assuming no fire extinguisher was played directly onto the wheel rims e.g. sudden cooling by water, then the rims may well still be serviceable. Make sure the hub bearing seals haven’t been scorched. Get some Astonish plastic window frame cream cleaner to gently remove heat marks if anodised rims, otherwise normal cleaning polish for alloy finish. If you have steel rims the heat will not have done much apart from discolouring the chrome which can usually be got back again with normal cleaning methods. Be very careful as some rubber when heated can produce a nasty substance that will eat your skin, bone and the only way to get it off is cutting the skin off. Burned out cars are a nightmare for the fire service and others such as recovery etc. It’s the door seals and the like so you might just want to wear gloves and dispose of the tyres with thought.??♂️
I hope you have the other bits for the bike, not showing in photo! Otherwise either way it’s going to be an expensive project. Someone is looking for a road bike project so it should sell well. As others have said buy a C15 already converted or if you can a genuine C15T ?? converted road bikes can be very nicely done with all the right parts and then there are the conversions done purely because a trials 4 stroke attracts far more money??? just compare the price of a few such as AJS and Matchless road and trials variants, you get more bike for less as a road variant and a lot less bike for the Trials version! I’m still trying to get my head around this price differential as I too would love to have any one of the afformentioned bikes. I had a genuine C15T as a schoolboy, bought for £15 in bits. I took the forks to Valu Motorcycles in Luton for them to rebuild £12. I then sold the C15T on for £35 still in bits. I sold it to a mechanic who had it built up and running within the week and was riding it at Oughton Head Common Hitchin. He then junked his very old BSA 250 with gas pipe home made swing arm and swinging footrests for wheelieing. That bike had external oil pump with adjuster but I can’t remember what Beezar it was but it was old but had knobblies and chrome petrol tank, so some conversions can be quite interesting??? Pick your bike with care.
Sam you already have the ‘large’ air box fitted, just rework the poor waterproofing as mentioned already. The later model Sherpas had the smaller side panels that looked sleeker. Your set up correctly fitted will allow the engine to breathe more easily from the larger air volume.??
Aaron you could try InMotion which is also known as Bultaco uk. Google will supply contact details. They are very good and supply parts etc for all the Spanish makes plus. Others on this forum will recommend different suppliers and contacts.
The main thing is to check the bid end and connecting rod little end for wear, play and visible signs of other damage. Welding up the crankshaft should not pose too many problems provided that there are no inclusions and you allow air cooling naturally. If you are going with the stick method then select rod material type with care flash grinding will indicate type of similar metal by spark colour. You have little choice with mig. Penetration could be a strength problem. Maybe you could find a good condition crank half on eBay etc. Not sure from pic but if it’s the drive side you are repairing there will be a fair amount of torque loading on the shaft. If it’s the generator side then there will be a lot of inertia going through that side of the shaft. Add up the cost of new big end bearing and conrod kit and you maybe better getting another engine and using both to make one good engine with your original cases. Hope there’s some useful info for you.?
Thank you very much for your advice. My idea is to have the rear hoop replaced and then powdercoated to bring the bike back to original.
That rear hoop deletion was a works mod. From the picture it looks to have been carried out well. There could be more history to this particular bike and may well be worth checking further?? Also check the top tube for straightness they tended to bend especially if the bike was jumped like a m/x er. Looks fine but a good check is needed. I’m just over the ridge if you need help, tools, etc.
My frame tubes were like yours ‘well dented’. I cut them out and made replacement tubes and welded them in place. Previous owner had deleted the useless bash plate and fitted an alloy version, didn’t save the frame from his rock bashing riding techniques though? when you fit the engine back into the frame install some thick rubber mat to absorb impacts and note onto engine cases. Mat should not be over frame tubes.
Yep the air box is correct, it’s one many riders used to replace later model air box with as they were smaller. Your frame could be a Miller Hi-Boy but looking at the original frame which has the rear loop deleted I’d be using that one. Chrome plating frames can make them more brittle and as they get older; even more so. If you are selling the original Bultaco blue frame I would be interested as I’m in Nottinghamshire. I’m currently rebuilding/remaking/restoring a M80 Sherpa 250 this to came with a chrome frame and was supposed to be a Miller Hi-Boy but it turns out to be a Bultaco Frame chromed. There were some other small manufacturers that dabbled in frames for the Bultaco and others. Contacting Sammy Miller may be helpful but I doubt he has any records of frames produced, nor do I suspect you’ll get much info from the previous and new owners of Miller Products. The more I look at your bike the more I’d be inclined to go with the Bultaco frame as it’s going to be easier to prove ‘provenance’. Hope you find my input helpful? NB the waterproofing on the air box is not good, you will need to look into making this area better than Bultaco did.
Just thought I'd update this post I've finally sorted the running problems. First fault (starting/reving)was the brand new carb which has been swapped for a new amal premier carb, the second fault was a combination of things (gettin hot/pinking), turns out these Villiers engines have a usefull feature of a drain plug in the crank cases, which had come loose on mine and was letting in a small amount of air making it run hot, so that got a new copper washer and some thread tape making it run a lot better but not perfect, whilst talking with a couple of riders whilst out practicing they mentioned about the squish with it having a rebuild, so that was checked and found to be very tight/narrow so I've used a copper head gasket I had off another bike and what a transformation the bike is a complete different animal, so thanks to those who posted ideas and maybe this might help others in the future because there's nothing worse than a thread with no update on whether a fault has been fixed, here's a pic of it now it's finished
Beautiful and so full of character. Time now to fit a heel and toe gearlevergear-lever makes for much better selection, especially with those really set back footrests. Envious?
Had a look at Companies House details and Greeves Motorcycles is still registered as an active company, with Richard Deal as director. Think they must be trading on a small scale, rather than as the new-found saviour of British offroad motorcycle manufacturing as was originally touted.
Personally I've no time for any firm that hangs its reputation on a website which last received any input from its owner seven or eight years ago.
Greeves still advertise in Old Bike Mart. They offer a spares service and new build versions of the Anglian. Recently moved to new location tel no. 01263 734688 Marsham, Norwich, Norfolk.??
Relatively new to me 2016 EVO 300 4T. Out riding yesterday, bike was running fine. Wheelied to a stop in the fork of the tree, and parked the bike in a wheelie position for a few minutes while I did some trail maintenance. Pulled the bike out of the tree, and couldn't start it. Assumed I had flooded or starved it. Finally, after about 50 kicks, got it started. It ran for a minute then died. Repeated, got it started again. It would run at a slow throttle pace, but would bog when I added more throttle. Thinking I ended up with some trash somewhere in the fuel system. Before I pull apart the carb, I thought I should determine whether this bike has a fuel filter. Pulled the parts fiche which shows one in the fuel line between the petcock and carb. Doesn't exist on my bike. Is there a fuel filter on this bike, for instance, inside the tank or somewhere else?
Thanks for any help.
Here's what the fiche shows (#10, which isn't present on my bike):
You haven’t flooded the air filter element with fuel or engine oil from the breather, this will certainly cause the issues you have. Sediment may also have blocked the carb idle jet. Next time, unless you’re doing a Dougie Lampkin and wheeling round the Isle of Man park your bike on the side stand etc?
Has anyone installed an M199A five speed gear set into a set of 199B cases ? I know the six speed won’t go into a five speed case. Just want to know if it’s been done
Steve
Well first off you will lose the engine/frame number pairing. If you ask Bultaco UK / InMotion the question they ought to be able to offer knowledgeable advice and parts if needed as they did have recently a new stock of gearbox internals.
I love this picture - a M150 next to my M49 Kit Campeon at a local trials event in Southern California USA today
Really nice looking pair of Sherpas. As for twins no, the frame tubes are different, rear dampers different, front guard stays different, kickstart angles different, tank decals missing on M49 plus extra sticker on top of tank unit. Other than that ‘twins’. I just hope my M80 when completed comes somewhere near to your standards of preparation?? What state were the bottom frame tubes (beneath engine) I had to make up new tubes and weld in as originals were crushed and dented way beyond resurrection????
I'm new to this forum (so immediately apologise, although I've been following it for along time) and I've come back to trials after a twenty five year absence. I have a Beta Evo 290 2010 (a dream compared with the bikes I used to ride up to my twenties, TY80, TY175, TY250), my wife has a Beta Rev 3 125 2007, and its true that I can use her bike just as easily as mine for most things. These bikes are a world away from what I used to ride. Now, many people would say, why use a 290...its far too much power for you and pros can do anything you can do with much less...and you (I) certainly don't need that power, and they may be right. I grew up on Addingham Moorside, Yorkshire next door to the Lampkins and when I was 8 yrs old I had a TY80 and I spent some time with John Lampkin, who at the time was 15 or 16yrs old and had a 250. He demonstrated to me a few sections on his bike and as a little 8yr old, said thats all very well but my 80cc bike can't do that...at which point he got on my 80cc (child's bike) and completed everything he had just done on his 250!! We're not all Lampkins of course and I just wanted to say that firstly, we don't all fit children's bikes, and although I can do most things on my wife's 125, at 6'3 and 15 stones, I actually find my 290 really easy to ride and I get away with larger obstacles, using much less power and feel much more in control...my point is to those who say, unless you're Dougie Lampkin, you shouldn't use more than a 200, I don't think that's true. Sometimes the ability to climb a hill or clear an obstacle with a lot less throttle can be more reassuring to riders than having to use max the throttle...no doubt I'll get battered for my comments and being new to the forum I'll accept all criticism...These bikes have changed and I was much more terrified by my old bikes than the new ones.
Ah but you see you are older ?and wiser ?and not so easily scarred ?by impossible sections ?and obtuse angle rocks ?waiting to jump out at you! No batter, not even salt and vinegar.
thanks guys,i think would just about manage the front,but i think the rear is for the shop.
Get someone who knows what they are doing to actually show you! There’s no better way to learn than to actually do the job with guidance. Everyone has told you good information, but you sound like your practical skill levels; indicated by not knowing about the security bolts, should be improved especially for wheel removal and more importantly refitting and working safely. Hope you take the comment as well meaning and in no way critical of your abilities. There are good videos ....and bad on the subject of tyre changing but doing it is best?
Stay with the Mikuni but first return it to the original specification/settings. You don’t mention float height and as this is important because it is easy to bend without realising it must be checked accurately. The ignition timing needs to be accurately set to Yamaha’s specs. The spark plug also needs to be as standard but an iridium to the same spec is ok. Ensure all breather/vent pipes are correctly routed, not kinked or blocked including the carb fittings. With a Wes exhaust you would possibly need to go up a couple of sizes on the main jet and try the engine performance; plug chop is a good way to establish main jet and needle type. But as I say start from standard settings first to establish a base line, note every adjustment and make small adjustments. Check the main bearing crankcase seals as you could be drawing air from unwanted places. For the engine to be running hot at low throttle openings are you allowing for the lower air flow around the engine? What method are you using to measure engine temp. A richer mixture may help with cooler running at slow speeds but may also cause 4 stroking and bogging down/stalling issues. Have included a picture of my E model this has standard jetting but synthetic reed valve and modified stop plates, also standard exhaust as Yamaha knows best.??The idle mixture screw has two settings, one for work and one for off-road that’s why you can see the original nylon cap in place. This cap gives approx. quarter turn in or out but the cap must be removed to perform the initial set-up. I’ve not ignored you’re stated 0.020 thou lifted exhaust port but I doubt that will have had much if any effect to the engine performance temperature wise. Not advertising but I found Yam Bits to be very helpful with parts and I dare say a certain Mr. A might offer some useful advice??
Still a few entrepreneurs involved in pre65 / twin shock, trouble is current bikes are very good right out the box. Back then, factory offering were pretty dire.
But what potential they had for each rider to individualise their machine.
I haven't got a clue but you get my vote for daftest subject title.
Well my Sherpa came with a banana ( not battered or bruised) but I suspect that the club foot is better performance wise as Bultaco progressed to that style. The system with the largest volume is usually better.
Thanks Patrik. Germany is just a bit to far for me as I am in Australia. It looks like I might have to just make an insert and make the hole in the exhaust port larger and heat shrink the insert in there. Finding a tap that size might be fun though. I have never made any threads on my lathe and it is an imperial lathe so making a metric thread could be fun. Or I could just take all of it into an engineering shop and get them to do it which is probably the smart thing to do. Cheers Graham.
How about trying to use the later double spring retainer as on the later Sherpas and MX models. Heat shrink around the exhaust port on an aluminuim barrel could be problematical with loosening etc. I’m sure that there are really large Helcoils available and there are also solid thread inserts on the market. Alternatively you could open out the exhaust entry ( damaged thread area) to accept a new short pipe threaded to match with an internal diameter as the original screw in front pipe sleeve. I wanted to say plumbers thread tools if you follow my drift.???I hope there’s some useful ideas here to sort your problem. Good old Google should have some answers too!
Setting the gap on an Iridium plug is no more difficult than a standard plug, just be careful. Top tip...if the gap has altered with normal running and no outside interference then the plug should really be replaced as it’s worn out. Top tip no 2 iridium plugs should last for 60+000 miles in a car engine so expect at least a lifetime (40+000 miles) in a Trials bike engine. For my sins I used to be a NGK Wholesaler.??
Doubt that you’ll like taper top yoke as you will also need tapered fork tubes. Early Bultaco Sherpas had taper top assembly i. e. M80 and M49 but then some of the M80’s had the deeper bottom yoke whilst others had a straight yoke. Chase T Y might have some special triple clamps but not tapered and not cheap either.
Sherco 250 twistgrip
in Sherco
Posted
Suppose really it depends on how far round you twist it?